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Hey guys any suggestions on getting lose the skid plate. The PO seemed to cut two small holes in the frame on the driver side but I'm hoping to not repeat this on the passenger side any suggestions.
Thanks for sending in the pic, a concern would be the weakening of the frame at that location. One suggestion, since you live in a rust prone area, would be to weld plates over those holes with a duplicate hole in them. Say about a 3/16" thick, and if you did it to all those skid plate hole locations, you would always be able to replace a rusted out nut. I am sure there are quite a few ways to repair it and hopefully you will get more suggestions, one being that my idea is crazy. On mine, I drilled a few holes on the bottom of the frame to let the water drain out. Those dropped skid plates really screw up the breakover angle.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Drill and tap to 1/2"x28thd. Easy to do from the 7/16" dia they are at.
Make sure you coat the new bolts with copper anti-seize when install'n the new GD 8 bolts and washers.
LG
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
Cadmium plated bolts when you change,
Use 'Never-Seize' on the bolts, and be GENEROUS INSIDE THE 'NUTS'.
That will push a 'Dome' of 'Never-Seize' up on the top of the bolt threads when the threads push through the nut and help slow rust/corrosion.
Dropped skid plates usually aren't required unless you have a TON of lift and have to 'Clock' the Transfer Case 'Down' to straighten out drive shaft angles.
Can't tell from the picture how much lift or what the drive line angles look like...
Drilling a SMALL hole (like 1/4") next to the frame Nut so you can squirt some penetrating oil or lubricant on the bolt extending through the nut will help get those suckers out.
This is EXTENSIVE, so I'm not trying to sell it as a home game...
You *CAN* drill a hole all the way through the frame,
Weld in tubing to keep the frame from crushing when the bolts tighten,
And use a LONG, but common bolt and nut, so you can get at both sides.
I usually do this when the frame is bare, it's a bit of a pain to weld the top when the body is still on...
It's called a 'Frame Gusset', and it's a VERY good way to do things when you have access to the areas it's needed.
Gussets also help spread the load out, which helps the frame from cracking over the long haul.
1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
Cadmium plated bolts when you change,
Use 'Never-Seize' on the bolts, and be GENEROUS INSIDE THE 'NUTS'.
That will push a 'Dome' of 'Never-Seize' up on the top of the bolt threads when the threads push through the nut and help slow rust/corrosion.
Dropped skid plates usually aren't required unless you have a TON of lift and have to 'Clock' the Transfer Case 'Down' to straighten out drive shaft angles.
Can't tell from the picture how much lift or what the drive line angles look like...
Drilling a SMALL hole (like 1/4") next to the frame Nut so you can squirt some penetrating oil or lubricant on the bolt extending through the nut will help get those suckers out.
This is EXTENSIVE, so I'm not trying to sell it as a home game...
You *CAN* drill a hole all the way through the frame,
Weld in tubing to keep the frame from crushing when the bolts tighten,
And use a LONG, but common bolt and nut, so you can get at both sides.
I usually do this when the frame is bare, it's a bit of a pain to weld the top when the body is still on...
It's called a 'Frame Gusset', and it's a VERY good way to do things when you have access to the areas it's needed.
Gussets also help spread the load out, which helps the frame from cracking over the long haul.
Right now, only one '76 CJ5. 304 with a three speed stick. Everything else is pretty much stock 'cept for a 4" suspension lift. Came to me with a back breakin' 4" suspension lift attached to a reverse shackle setup (Reversed the reverse shackle :dung: and now she rides like a Caddy!) Also posess a few 60s & 70s Mustangs and a couple of late 70's F150s 4X4s.
Since you have the body off, my choice would be TeamRush's suggestion; drill through the frame, sleeve the hole and do a through bolt fix. It works (I've done it before).
Worried about getting the bolt out after the body is on? Not as big a deal as you'd think (I've had to do that too, ). Cut of wheel, sawsall or hot wrench to the bolt head, the threaded rod drops out the bottom. When you go back with new hardware, a nut and lock washer goes on top and the bolt goes in from the bottom. Or threaded rod with nuts and washers on top and bottom.
Clean out the inside of the frame before you weld the holes up. Looks like you've got plenty of places to hose at it from.
Some great information here guys. Lift wise I'm not sure but I can promise it's at least 4 inch. Also had a body lift well before the sawsall got a hold of it . Also it's got a AMC 304 and the Vin calls for a three speed but I have a four speed. Still finding a lot the PO has changed
If you got a torch Heat the frame to see if you can remove the bolts without breaking the bolt (or the nut loose). If you break the nut loose you might be able to do what I've done. If the frame has a factory hole or slot cut into it, cut a piece of 1/8" flat stock and spot weld a nut on it. Use a flexible (2' long, 3 fingers for picking up nuts or bolts in tight spots) part pick er up er (don't know what they are called) and you can place the nut inside the frame with out cutting. Also if you do have to cut, one hole could do all of them. I've also done this for the spring hanger bolts.
1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
1986 Jeep CJ7, 258 C.I., T-176, Dana 300, with a Dana 30 and AMC 20. 1982 Jeep CJ8, 258 C.I., T-5, Dana 300, with a Dana 30 and AMC 20. 2007 1/2 Chevrolet Silverado K1500. 2001 Harley Road Glide. Gone but not forgotten: A 1986 CJ7, and a 1953 CJ3A.
'85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
). Cut of wheel, sawsall or hot wrench to the bolt head, the threaded rod drops out the bottom. When you go back with new hardware, a nut and lock washer goes on top and the bolt goes in from the bottom. Or threaded rod with nuts and washers on top and bottom.
. Also it's got a 
