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Rust Killer That Actually Seems To Work...

Rust Killer That Actually Seems To Work...

TeamRush

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Nice write up
thanks for the post. It is always good to have first hand info about something we can always use.
 
TeamRush, great to hear you found something that really works. As you know living here in the rust belt is a joy :chug:
 
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Excellent find and great post!

No phosphoric acid huh? I like that! :)

I looked up the MSDS and it lists 'Organic Acid'... :)

The instructions are pretty straight forward too! :)
 
No kidding, thanks man! Rust killer is pretty spendy, and a good one at a fair price is good to find!:notworthy:
 
Thanks for the info TEAMRUSH but like any one with a CJ will need any rust killer :rolleyes: j/k
Know i'll have to give it a try.
 
Nice I'll have to try that. He always gives part #s also. :rock:


Kickn Jeep , there seems to be an echo in here :poke:
 
I wonder what it's converted to?
I might grab some and coat some rusty metal and
just leave it outside to see how it holds up.
 
Appears to be good stuff. I'll definitely try it on the BT3-C I'm working...
 
That settles it, my passenger side fender will be 85% black polymer and 15% steel.

They have anything that you can spray onto duct tape and have it turn into a weld? :D

Jim
 
They have anything that you can spray onto duct tape and have it turn into a weld? :D

not yet but if we can figure out how to do it we will be rich
 
TeamRush, is there anything on the bottle that it can be sprayer on?..like with a small airbrush?..would this work on body panels? I have been useing a Rustoleum converter, haven't had it on long enough to tell if it is going to work though..
 
This is 'way cool! My father had some liquid in a 55gal drum that would, mixed 1 part in 10 of water, remove rust and leave behind a grey-white hard surface that never, never, ever rusted again. I have a rusted steel trap so treated that has been hanging around my garage (not the same garage all this time) for 25 years, and is unrusted. And I have lived near large bodies of water, some salty, the whole time.

But three moves equals one fire, and I have moved 14 times. When I tried to find the stuff from a label I tore off the drum, the company that mfg'ed the stuff, in Port Allen, LA (think 'cancer corridor') had ceased to exist. I had the product name on the label, but everybody I called denied any knowledge of the substance or the company name. Talk about Plausible Deniability!

I took an old carpenter's saw, rusty to useless, and treated it IAW instructions. Then I tossed it out into the yard into the nightly dews and frequent rainshowers. After two weeks, brought it back and inspected under lights....... no rust, not even tiny pits.

So now you've rekindled hope of finding that Magic Fountain of tool users and metal manglers.

Damn! I am going to be badly beaked if it doesn't work like I remember. But the photos are quite convincing.
 
have you tried por-15...at first I raved about it too, but over time it comes off line paper...

I'm asking because I am working on a fairly good tub, CJ7 , and although i am going to rhino line the inside, I'm concerned about the underside.

I've been reading a couple articles and they recommended Tremclad rust paint.

The idea being that you clean as much loose stuff as you can and paint it. and next season do it again...

If this is not going off topic too much, does anyone rock guard their underside. same articles said not to the body will rust faster...

Keep in mind that I'm in the Great White North...and they love to salt the :dung: out of the roads...


ED
 
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