Rusty, I think I'm loosing my nerve

[Hedgehog]

Wish I had room in my over packed garage for a decent engine stand. I'd have one if this type of work were more frequently in my future. Hmmmm. I think I'll check craigslist, if I can find one cheap enough. I know I'm tired. Most of the work was done on a milk crate. At first the crate was handling the weight well, as time and the weight of additional parts added up the crate crushed in more and more. In the end it stood up, kind of warped, but still a useful crate. The Transmission is on the floor right now..... Oh yeah, I'm all alone n this house so I did most of the dry rebuild right in the nice cool living room. She's going out to the garage right now though. Even I can't stand the mess in my house.

I'm inspired: Was vasilating between "old Ford grey" and "old Ford Blue". I've said it before, my standard has been, "If I work on it it gets painted "Old Ford Blue". I imagine yours isn't Ford Blue, probably an AMC color, but Ford Blue is always available around here I like the color so that is what my CJ parts get painted.


Edit, a little while later: I've got a message in to some one on craigslist for an engine stand. Looks better than H-F, but even a H-F stand would hold the Transfer Case .... next project.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Hope it works out. I have used a modified engine stand for diff. set-ups for many years.
LG

 

[mtnwhlr]

I have a HF stand and it's worked great. I got it when I rebuilt my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l .

 

[Hedgehog]

I have some experience with the H-F stand. It would hold up the 360, but tended to sag. I used a motorcycle stand/jack set on the bottom legs to level the engine. A partial good idea is on our local Craigslist. They welded legs on the lower tubing with motor mounts attached. For your specific engine it's not a bad idea. Problem is, you can't turn the engine around/upside down to work on it.

For the money the H-F stand did work, with a drive train a H-F stand probably would work well.

Theas parts will be painted. The problem is their over all weight. Paint would not stand for moving around. I expect to install it then paint the scratches, but it would be nice to keep the scratches to a minimum. A stand would definitely help.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Can you use a piece of carpet between the tranny and the jack, during install?
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Very true. I generally use motorcycle jack to remove and install. In stock form it has fallen a bit short. Since I no longer have motorcycle there is no reason why it can't be modified to make the job easier. As far as scratches are concerned... well, I know me. It seems the more carefully I try the worse it gets (scratches).

 

[Hedgehog]

The top shifter housing needs attention. There is scarcely a single part of old Rusty that wouldn't benefit from a good rebuild. Besides the reverse fork spring needs to be replaced. At least some level of rebuild is required for repair.

To do this I need to pop out the small metal covers that seal the shift rods. does anyone know how to remove those covers without damaging the covers?

They are available in a rebuilding kit, but it seems wasteful to buy a whole kit just to get those covers/caps.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

If those are the ones that look like freeze-plugs. I wouldn't plan on reusing them, ever.
Make sure you use a good sealer when you install the new ones.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Okay, 10-4, got'cha - So where can replacements be found?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Pull one(slide-hammer works well)and head to the auto parts store you know that has the best 'odd' parts in house.
You could also call your 2 Jeep guys and see if they have any.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

You make it all sound so simple sir. It is, I'll just buy a top rebuilding kit.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I would ck with those 2 jeeps shops, to see if they just might have the plugs before buy'n the whole kit. Unless you need other parts for the top-end rebuild.
Good luck,
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

The word was, "I'll leave finding replacement caps up to you."

Besides that, the bell housing is now painted. Man, the original casting was on rough SOB. Just cleaned it up and painted it. There is no way I'm going to risk compromising the structural integrity of such an important part. Or I was to lazy to attempt cleaning up the rough casting.... No matter, I sure like a nice shinny coat of "Old Ford Blue" on my jeep parts.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Happy hunt'n
Did both shops say that?
Just fir 'grins'. Call Novak, and see if they may have any......
IIRC-Those plugs as just flat sheet metal, 'rite'??
Longshot here--What about the screw in flat plugs that are used in metal weather/rain proof electrical outlet housings??
Could you tap the housing for a threaded pipe plug??
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Rob at Willys Works said that. It could be one of two possibilities, they are easy to find or impossible. Didn't ask the Transmission shop, probably should. I need to start digging into the cover, there are a surprising amount of small parts in there. There is a popped spring buried up there that moves the reverse shifting fork into position for shifting. While working on this Transmission two problems were found, both are spring related. The springs and ball bearing that hold pressure on the low gear (1st)/ 2nd gear clutch were rotten and broken. The top cover reverse fork spring is nowhere to be seen. I bet the combination of the two spring parts (about $400 in parts) was the reason the Transmission was pulled or scrap.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Fingers crossed for find'n all parts need'd.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Eeerrrrrrr Not = (about $400 in parts) should be = (about $4.00 in parts)

 

[Lumpy Grits]

DANG!
Would you then be look'n for a couple of donor T-18s then?
Have you ck'd Novak on parts kits etc?
https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transmission/transmission-parts/t18-t19-parts/

LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Lumpy - I think you misread my post or I wrote it poorly. My point was that only a couple inexpensive springs, about $4.00 worth, likely doomed this Transmission to the trash heap. It's to bad the trash heap was outside where water got in bringing the rust. As I turned out, not bad rust. It did need a couple gears that were pitted though.

Got an engine stand yesterday. It is a H-F, hardly used, paid $45 for it. The guy wanted $60, problem was a new stand goes for $64.99.

The bell housing is painted and the threads chased. Aluminum threads scare me to death. When the threads fail I like those metal thread inserts, but all these threads are good so we'll see how things go. The Transmission will be mounted up tonight and painted.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You 'rote' it just fine-I did mis-read what you posted.
Killer deal on that stand.
LG