Starter ATE my flexplate! Need a new one. How do I remove? What Flexplate to buy :(

[76cj7chick]

Boy! It was just before Easter and I finally got my CJ7 running and driving with the gm tbi conversion... I was so excited.. I was driving up and down my street honking the horn and waving at my neighbors.. When all of the sudden I hit a small bump, the engine almost died but kept going.. I heard a little clunking... But all seemed fine.

A few days later I went out to start "him"... And all I heard was GRINDING... tried again.. Still grinding.. (Don't ask me why I tried it again..) More grinding...

After conversing with some family members we figured it was the starter...
I pulled it and sure enough metal slivers were up in the flexplate area... The starter blew the end off but, worse yet the flexplate was all chewed up...:dunno::dunno:
Partially I'm sure it is my fault for not tightening to torque..

I changed out first starter because of the same issue.. However it didn't chew up the flexplate as bad as this time.... I was new to changing starters.. Didn't know much about it and SHOULD have read more about it before attempting to replace the first one.. It looks like it sits too high and needs to be angled downward.. But the po didn't install any shims..

Please give me step by step instructions on how to remove the flexplate.. I will have to do it myself as money is tight.

My CJ7 jeep has the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l engine with AMC (NOT the gm made) GM Turbo 400 3 speed automatic and Dana 20 tcase (both out of a full sized jeep truck installed by a previous owner)
I can only find flexplates for 360 or 401 with the AMC GM Turbo 400 ... Would it matter if I just got a flexplate for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a auto tranny? I've read I shouldn't use the flexplate for the 360 since the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l is internally balanced, so get the no weight on flexplate..


(I am soooo tempted just to sell the engine and tranny and get a gm 4.3 engine and r700 tranny.. But it may take too long and more headaches to sell my parts and get the later parts and then install...):barf:

I may have to get another starter too... Last one was a napa.. I've read that they are junk.. Any suggestions on a decent (and economical) starter that WON'T chew up flexplate teeth (would rather the starter get owned.. But both not getting destroyed and them working properly IS preferred)

Hope I don't confuse all of you....
PLEASE, any and all advice would be sooooo much appreciated....

 

[caveman]

You need to remove either the engine or the Transmission to change out the flex plate. Neither one is going to be simple, Yet it will be simpler than trying to install a different engine/Transmission combo. I have done it before on a different vehicle by unbolting the Transmission and sliding it back on a jack just enough to get to the flex plate. Might work for you.

 

[76cj7chick]

You need to remove either the engine or the Transmission to change out the flex plate. Neither one is going to be simple, Yet it will be simpler than trying to install a different engine/Transmission combo. I have done it before on a different vehicle by unbolting the Transmission and sliding it back on a jack just enough to get to the flex plate. Might work for you.

Thanks caveman for your response.
Should I put a block of wood on top of the jack to steady the tranny or just use the jack? Is there any "special" tool or rolling apparatus that I could use to keep it at the height and just move back some then pop it back into place after the new flexplate gets installed?
Thanks again for your help...

 

[76cj7chick]

I've done some more research and according to other jeepers, I am to use a flexplate for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with auto tranny.. (My combo is the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l but has the AMC GM Turbo 400 tranny.. According to the internet, that specifc tranny was typically behind a 360 or 401 on the fsj.. (Please correct me if I am wrong...)

Both my dad and brother could change the flexplate (since they have done this sort of thing in the past) but are currently busy with their lives..
I will ask them for pointers..

If anyone knows of a apparatus that I could slide under the CJ7 to cradle and hold the tranny (since I know it weighs approx., 135.lbs) while I disconnect all of the parts (driveline, skidplate bolts, tranny) please let me know..

This is a time for prayers...

Please keep the ideas coming in...

 

[caveman]

I use something like this that I made, except mine is no where near as fancy. Amazon.com: Transmission Adapter Jack: Automotive

 

[76cj7chick]

I use something like this that I made, except mine is no where near as fancy. Amazon.com: Transmission Adapter Jack: Automotive

Good to know caveman.. :rock:

 

[Hedgehog]

Will you be working on concrete or some other hard flat surface? If so you are ahead with this effort. You can make an adaptor for your floor jack by either welding a steel plate to your jack that can be bolted to your existing Transmission mount or you can remove the jack shoe (?). There will be a hole for a shaft to center the shoe. Weld a bolt or short pipe to the plate and attach the Transmission mount. It won't be a solid set-up, but the ability to wiggle the Transmission /Transfer Case is actually help full.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I use something like this that I made, except mine is no where near as fancy. Amazon.com: Transmission Adapter Jack: Automotive

I have this and it allows me to pull the tranny and t'case as one unit.
Pays for itself the first time you use it.
Don't forget, you must support the back of the engine to keep it from rotating when you remove the tranny-
LG

 

[Woolyworm]

I've done the train pull and install with and without a tranny jack and having the tranny jack makes the job a zillion times easier. It's a real sob without one. You can rent them from your local tool rental shop usually. Good luck!


Wooly

 

[76cj7chick]

Will you be working on concrete or some other hard flat surface? If so you are ahead with this effort. You can make an adaptor for your floor jack by either welding a steel plate to your jack that can be bolted to your existing Transmission mount or you can remove the jack shoe (?). There will be a hole for a shaft to center the shoe. Weld a bolt or short pipe to the plate and attach the Transmission mount. It won't be a solid set-up, but the ability to wiggle the Transmission /Transfer Case is actually help full.

Welding? I attempted to weld twice in my life... For right now I am content on just soldering... But thanks for the heads up...

And thankfully we (my neighbor may help me..) will do this in a garage..

 

[76cj7chick]

I have this and it allows me to pull the tranny and t'case as one unit.
Pays for itself the first time you use it.
Don't forget, you must support the back of the engine to keep it from rotating when you remove the tranny-
LG

Nice tranny jack..
Now, what do you mean by you must "support the back of the engine to keep it from rotating?"

 

[76cj7chick]

I've done the train pull and install with and without a tranny jack and having the tranny jack makes the job a zillion times easier. It's a real sob without one. You can rent them from your local tool rental shop usually. Good luck!


Wooly

Thank you for your input Woolyworm (interesting name you have there)

 

[76cj7chick]

My neighbor said he may be able to help me this coming week..:bounce:

One other thing... Can anyone recommend a starter that if it does hit my flexplate will get owned rather than the flexplate? ---However, I plan on making/buying/stealing (just kidding on the last one) some shims to keep it from going straight and hitting into the flexplate directly..

I REALLY can't wait to drive my pink jeep. :grinjeep:
By the way, I bought a twin stick Transfer Case shifter assembly from jbfab.net and it appears to be well made. Can't install until the flexplate is replaced though.. I will post a thread on the install when I get to the twin stick.)

Thanks everyone for your help! It's nice to have support.. Especially when things keep going wrong with the peep... (and most of the time due to my error.. But I am learning)

 

[Hedgehog]

Frankly, I'm a bit surprised that you are having starter alignment problems. I've installed, ohhh golly how many, ahhh lets say lots of them without ever having to shim any of them. It is possible that your ring gear is the culprit here. A bad ring gear most likely WILL tear up a good starter. .... I've also never had a ring gear go bad, but I did replace the one on the 360 flywheel. You might be able to just replace the ring gear on your Flexplate. Maybe not though, the one on my 360 was welded in a few places. After seeing the Transmission mount for a floor jack I think that might be the way to go. It certainly is reasonably priced.

Never welded (much)! You seem to be mechanically inclined or at least game enough to give it a try. Being able to weld can open up a whole new world of mechanical adventures for you. The trick is to get the right welder. A stick welder can be a night mare to learn on, but a decent MIG is a true pleasure to use.

 

[76cj7chick]

Frankly, I'm a bit surprised that you are having starter alignment problems. I've installed, ohhh golly how many, ahhh lets say lots of them without ever having to shim any of them. It is possible that your ring gear is the culprit here. A bad ring gear most likely WILL tear up a good starter. .... I've also never had a ring gear go bad, but I did replace the one on the 360 flywheel. You might be able to just replace the ring gear on your Flexplate. Maybe not though, the one on my 360 was welded in a few places. After seeing the Transmission mount for a floor jack I think that might be the way to go. It certainly is reasonably priced.

Never welded (much)! You seem to be mechanically inclined or at least game enough to give it a try. Being able to weld can open up a whole new world of mechanical adventures for you. The trick is to get the right welder. A stick welder can be a night mare to learn on, but a decent MIG is a true pleasure to use.

Both tranny and engine have been pulled.... Now that they are out.... I just want to get the GM 4.3l v6 with th700r4 Transmission ....(I already have the fuel hooked up.. ECM, fuel pump, wiring harness and throttle body..) But I'll start a new thread for that...
I'd keep the tranny and tcase but read that the AMC GM Turbo 400 can't be mated with the chevy v6 4.3... Saw on Novak adapter that they do have an adapter for the v8... But I still think I want the "little" v6...
Thanks for your thoughts and help... And the encouragement.

 

[Hedgehog]

I put a 231 V6 in my '80 CJ5 and would do it again in a heart beat. Many of the modern V6's have as much power as the old V8's and are far more efficient with fuel consumption. If you have the skills to stuff a V6 in there by all means do it.

 

[76cj7chick]

I put a 231 V6 in my '80 CJ5 and would do it again in a heart beat. Many of the modern V6's have as much power as the old V8's and are far more efficient with fuel consumption. If you have the skills to stuff a V6 in there by all means do it.

I have some skills.. Don't think I have that many skills.. . I already swapped the gm tbi onto the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l a while back (could never get used to the carbs.. Never figured out how to adjust properly so the jeep just died after it started.. )
Once I put the gm tbi on it, got rid of the vacuum leaks, fixed the wiring, cleaned the spark plugs-- etc.. The jeep ran awesome and flawlessly this month (april 2015)... Sadly, due to my error- not torquing the starter bolts, not replacing worn and broken engine mounts.. The next time I went to start it, the flexplate got owned by my starter. (Perhaps everything shifted?) But I digress...

If anyone can directly to a thread that talks about all the issues, parts of the swap, please do so... Also, pictures are always awesome...