Step 1 get running
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Step 1 get running
- Thread starter JimRico
- Start date Start date:
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dagr8tim
Jeeper
I did the same thing yesterday.
First off, I applied power to the output terminal of the solenoid. That allowed the starter to turn the motor over.
I then applied 12vdc to the power lug of the solenoid and the trigger terminal. That verified the starter and the solenoid both were good.
How did you have the starter tested. Did you take it to a parts store? If the the starter works on the bench it's either a bad wire from the solenoid to the starter, weak starter that doesn't have enough torque to turn the motor, or a bad ground between the starter mating surface and the block mating surface. Does the motor turn over by hand or with a breaker bar?
Another thought to consider is depending on how long it's been and how it's been stored, you may not want to use the ignition system and the key due to the possibility of mouse chewed wires. I used a jumper wire to jump power to the solenoid.
First off, I applied power to the output terminal of the solenoid. That allowed the starter to turn the motor over.
I then applied 12vdc to the power lug of the solenoid and the trigger terminal. That verified the starter and the solenoid both were good.
How did you have the starter tested. Did you take it to a parts store? If the the starter works on the bench it's either a bad wire from the solenoid to the starter, weak starter that doesn't have enough torque to turn the motor, or a bad ground between the starter mating surface and the block mating surface. Does the motor turn over by hand or with a breaker bar?
Another thought to consider is depending on how long it's been and how it's been stored, you may not want to use the ignition system and the key due to the possibility of mouse chewed wires. I used a jumper wire to jump power to the solenoid.
JimRico
Jeeper
Thanks for the info. I narrowed it down to the solenoid and replaced it. Got it to turn over briefly but then all power went dead. I'm running off a jump from my other truck so I may have to wait to get a new Batt b4 I can see what else is going on.
The prev owner said spark was intermittent So I need to get the new battery in and clean up some connections next.
Is there a need for a condenser on the coil if it had been converted from points system to a solid state distributor?
Thanks, Jim
The prev owner said spark was intermittent So I need to get the new battery in and clean up some connections next.
Is there a need for a condenser on the coil if it had been converted from points system to a solid state distributor?
Thanks, Jim
Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
There isn't a real need for it, but it can mellow out voltage spikes from the coil, or so I have heard.
Jimbos76cj
Full Time Jeeper
- Posts
- 2,223
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- 1
- Location
- St.Cloud FL
- Vehicle(s)
- 83 CJ-7.. 4" YJ springs front rear, J-10 44 front/AMC 20 rear,6 cy auto dana 300 35' bfg Done and gone!!
Ask me about my head light upgrade harness!!!
When you replace the battery go through and replace or clean all the ternimals and contacts points for the pos and neg cables. Ive seen a lot of starting issues be caused by dirty, oxidized and internally broken wires. verify your grounds are al lthere and solid also.
JimRico
Jeeper
Update on my Renegade
Had it running, somewhat, for a few days at MOAB last fall until the motor finally started losing pressure. Never really ran right. Total rebuild in process. Here's the plan and progress soo far.
-2" body lift (done)
-96 Vortec 350 installed but not running yet.
-SM465 and NP205Xfer installed with custom crossmember (done)
-replace AMC20 rear with HD Dana 44 with disk and e-brake. (done mostly) 35's look nice on it.
-replace Dana 30 with cut down Dana 44 front axle. (in process)
Currently trying to figure out the front leaf spring mounts and what type of shackles and mounts will work. I've got a new box beam bumper that I planned on welding my spring mounts to and also planned on outboarding my shackles (shackle reversal). Unfortunately with the axle centered the right perch (permanent hsg) comes up on the edge of the frame. The drivers side I can put out farther so no prob there.
The question is: is it OK to shift the axle about 3/4" over to get it off the frame. Then out board from there? OR do I just use some sort of offset shackle under the frame on the rear.
This is how close I am: Looking down at front frame arms.
View attachment 17976View attachment 17977
Any sugestions, Do's or dont's Thanks...
Had it running, somewhat, for a few days at MOAB last fall until the motor finally started losing pressure. Never really ran right. Total rebuild in process. Here's the plan and progress soo far.
-2" body lift (done)
-96 Vortec 350 installed but not running yet.
-SM465 and NP205Xfer installed with custom crossmember (done)
-replace AMC20 rear with HD Dana 44 with disk and e-brake. (done mostly) 35's look nice on it.
-replace Dana 30 with cut down Dana 44 front axle. (in process)
Currently trying to figure out the front leaf spring mounts and what type of shackles and mounts will work. I've got a new box beam bumper that I planned on welding my spring mounts to and also planned on outboarding my shackles (shackle reversal). Unfortunately with the axle centered the right perch (permanent hsg) comes up on the edge of the frame. The drivers side I can put out farther so no prob there.
The question is: is it OK to shift the axle about 3/4" over to get it off the frame. Then out board from there? OR do I just use some sort of offset shackle under the frame on the rear.
This is how close I am: Looking down at front frame arms.
View attachment 17976View attachment 17977
Any sugestions, Do's or dont's Thanks...
- Posts
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- Springfield, Missouri-U.S.A. Earth
- Vehicle(s)
- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
The condenser is there to cut RFI down.
Mount that neg bat cable to the top starter motor bolt.
LG
JimRico
Jeeper
Work in progress
Sorry for the confusion... That was the old motor. Put Vortec in it from a 96 Yukon and can't get it to run. I think it's got something to do with the oil pressure sensor talking to the computer. It only has one wire coming from it and all my schematics say otherwise.
Currently trying to get my SOA done and back on 4 wheels before I play with the motor.
Sorry for the confusion... That was the old motor. Put Vortec in it from a 96 Yukon and can't get it to run. I think it's got something to do with the oil pressure sensor talking to the computer. It only has one wire coming from it and all my schematics say otherwise.
Currently trying to get my SOA done and back on 4 wheels before I play with the motor.