Suggestions

[CJ]

Duane, you cannot flip the current drag link as it is not correct for what we are trying to do. All you need to do is use a device (such as a cut off broom stick) to approximate the correct geometry that is right for your vehicle. We want to eliminate the current drag link you have.

The goal is to leave the tie rod under the spring for clearance, put the drag link over the spring if possible bu flipping the link to the top of the knuckle and having as large as a drop arm as you can use without hitting the spring.

I'll try and find some photos for you.

The other alternative as CW stated is a high steer but that is expensive and requires machine work as well as other hardware changes.

As for the pictures you took. You can use our free gallery (prefered method) -->> http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f16/how-do-i-make-my-gallery-category-348/

or just use the 'Attach files' function under the below the 'Submit Reply' button in the 'Additional Options' section...

 

[coldwater]

Basically, we want you to take that drag link, and go throw it in the nearest river where no one will ever find it again. Then buy a new one. You will need to change the Pittman arm to the correct drop measurement by doing just what CJ said, just use a straight stick and hold it against where the drag link is connected to the steering knuckle, and straight across the top of the spring, and parallel to the tie rod, and measure the distance from the stick, to where the Pittman arm is now. That distance is how much drop you will need for the new Pittman arm. However, I'm not entirely sure you will clear the spring pack with a flip, in which case, you will have to leave it under. You will be able to figure that out with the stick. Just be sure it will not hit the spring when you measure over the top. If it does, you will need to leave it under, but in any event, the current drag link HAS to go.

 

[Old Dog]

The only way to fix a SOA right is high steer. You are going to have to get some high steer knuckels from a Dana 44 and put on there.
The PO didn't want to spend the money to do it right, and now you are going to have to fix his mess. Really if you don't want to spend big bucks fixing it than go back to SUA and save some money and headaches.
Thoes shackels should go also as they are going to be your next problem.

 

[Duane]

Anybody ever hear of a kit from Rocky road called an OTT. Little over 500 dollars.

http://www.rocky-road.com/cjott.html

I talked to their customer service guy and he said that they had some problems with the YJ kit but not the CJ kit. Seemed ok over the phone...

 

[Duane]

Duane, you cannot flip the current drag link as it is not correct for what we are trying to do. All you need to do is use a device (such as a cut off broom stick) to approximate the correct geometry that is right for your vehicle. We want to eliminate the current drag link you have.

The goal is to leave the tie rod under the spring for clearance, put the drag link over the spring if possible bu flipping the link to the top of the knuckle and having as large as a drop arm as you can use without hitting the spring.

I'll try and find some photos for you.

The other alternative as CW stated is a high steer but that is expensive and requires machine work as well as other hardware changes.

I used the old tie rod as a straight edge and came up with those measurements.

As for the pictures you took. You can use our free gallery (prefered method) -->> http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f16/how-do-i-make-my-gallery-category-348/

or just use the 'Attach files' function under the below the 'Submit Reply' button in the 'Additional Options' section...

I used the old tie rod as a straight edge and came up with those measurements

I will give the album thing a shot. Thanks

 

[CJ]

Anybody ever hear of a kit from Rocky road called an OTT. Little over 500 dollars.

http://www.rocky-road.com/cjott.html

I talked to their customer service guy and he said that they had some problems with the YJ kit but not the CJ kit. Seemed ok over the phone...

I have heard (and read) good and bad. Depends on who you talk to. I know that many complain about the speed of delivery. As for the CJ kit - I haven't ready anything bad. Infact, one of our members has one of their OTT kits on his YJ -->> P1000229medium - Jeep-CJ Gallery

I used the old tie rod as a straight edge and came up with those measurements

I will give the album thing a shot. Thanks

The more I look at your images already in your gallery I'm going to bet that you won't be able to get that drag link to clear the top of the spring at full articulation (compressed).


As OD said - your probably going to have to do a high steer to do this right... Unfortunately, that is some thing that many over look when doing a SOA.

Still post the shots though as I could be wrong...

 

[Old Dog]

I posted some pics in the member's gallery of the suspension and steering of my new toy. I am looking for suggestions as to what I might look at first to fix a very loose steering problem and get rid of possible "accidents waiting to happen"..

Duane, If I were you I would ask this in a new topic called "High steer" as I know we have members with SOA set up's here. I'm sure they can give you hint's on JY parts to fix your problems fairly cheep if you are into the DIY.

IMO what you have now with the S shaped pitman arm is NOT safe on the road.

 

[Duane]

I am not driving the jeep at all. It is setting in my garage on blocks with the wheels off. The steering scared the H*** out of me driving it home and will be fixed befroe it goes anywhere. I am also going to look into the brakes. Thanks for the "high steer" tip. I will look into it.

 

[CJ]

Glad to hear your waiting to drive it until you get it repaired properly... Just think though... The PO thought it was 'fine'...

Scary huh!

 

[Old Dog]

I posted some pics in the member's gallery of the suspension and steering of my new toy. I am looking for suggestions as to what I might look at first to fix a very loose steering problem and get rid of possible "accidents waiting to happen". If anyone needs any other picture angles or any more info, I will gladly oblige. Thanks in advance.

1. I am not sure if the PO put a dropped pitman arm on or left the stock one. You can see in one of the pics the tie rod (drag link?) looks bent.

2. Shackles look suspect to me also, but I am not a leaf guy yet.

3. Does the steering linkage, minus the stabilizer look stock or has it been replaced and if replace any ideas of what it might be.

4. On my Rubi, there was a stabilizer bar on the rear as well as the front. There is not one on the CJ. Is this normal?

Any and all suggestions will be accepted. Fire away..

Duane,

Thought I might answer a couple ? we all missed after we saw your steering setup.

#2) the shackels are so long they will cause you some caster problems which will make it wonder on the road. Might want to go with something closer to 1/2 or 1" lift.

#4) It looks like your jeep is on stock springs, and with a 3" BL. IMO you should run a front stabilizer bar on the street for safety. you could disconect it for playing in the rocks off road.

Looking at your pic's., It doesn't look like the PO has a traction bar in the rear. With a SOA you need it to keep axle warp down. It's also a AMC20 and it's not going to hold up real well to 35" boggers. You should at least weld the tubes to the housing and have 1 piece axles.

You also said your breaks weren't to good. Stork CJ breaks are at there max with 35" tires, you should think about upgrades.
Just some more good news I knew you would like to hear. But when you get it fixed back up right it will be worth it.

 

[Duane]

Duane,

Thought I might answer a couple ? we all missed after we saw your steering setup.

#2) the shackels are so long they will cause you some caster problems which will make it wonder on the road. Might want to go with something closer to 1/2 or 1" lift.

#4) It looks like your jeep is on stock springs, and with a 3" BL. IMO you should run a front stabilizer bar on the street for safety. you could disconect it for playing in the rocks off road.

Looking at your pic's., It doesn't look like the PO has a traction bar in the rear. With a SOA you need it to keep axle warp down. It's also a AMC20 and it's not going to hold up real well to 35" boggers. You should at least weld the tubes to the housing and have 1 piece axles.

You also said your breaks weren't to good. Stork CJ breaks are at there max with 35" tires, you should think about upgrades.
Just some more good news I knew you would like to hear. But when you get it fixed back up right it will be worth it.

Thanks for the answers Old Dog! The axles are one piece (got lucky) and I am looking into a traction bar for the wrap that is going to occur.

Any suggestions on the brakes. It does have discs in the front and they look like they are in good shape. I haven't pulled the drums yet. From looking at the master cylinder and boost I am not sure if it is stock or not. Any way to tell?

The shackles look like they came with the springs (that are 2 1/5 wide from a YJ?) and all he did was compress the tops to fit the mounts that are 2" (CJ). Can I replace the shackles with a pair from a yj and use a cj top bushing with washers to make up the difference or do they make a shackle for this specific application?

 

[Old Dog]

Duane,

as for breaks the two most popular ways to upgrade is:
1) use a YJ booster and mc.
2) go to a hydro boost system

As for the shackels they do make some that are 2 1/2 on one end and 2" on the other. Most people change out the front hanger to one that is 2 1/2" though.

 

[Duane]

Duane,

as for breaks the two most popular ways to upgrade is:
1) use a YJ booster and mc.
2) go to a hydro boost system

As for the shackels they do make some that are 2 1/2 on one end and 2" on the other. Most people change out the front hanger to one that is 2 1/2" though.

I think that I am going to have to move the front shackle mount as it looks like the front springs are YJs mounted into the original mount so when I do, I will use a 2 1/2" one and replace the shackles. From what I have read, the rear mount can be also be installed up front but you have to remove a bolt up front and slip the hanger forward.

To me, the MC and booster looks like it is not the original. I will try to get a pic and see what you guys can tell me about it.
Thanks