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Summerizing cooling system - HOW TO FLUSH?

Summerizing cooling system - HOW TO FLUSH?

DHugg

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'80 CJ7 304AMC crate with 8KMiles: MC2100 - AMC20 rear w/Superiors - Dana30 front - TF999 - Dana300TC - 35x12.5's - Tilt steer column - Flaming Rvr EZ-Steer Shaft - AGR Super Pump - AGR Super Box II - RockyRidge HD Brace - New home-designed digital TEMP - GAS - OILPR - CALIBRATE gauges.
Had a small gasket leak at the thermostat housing.... decided to remove the A/C compressor and get new belts at the same time. Wound up polishing the thermostat housing, installing new 180degree 'stat, blinding off some old pollution-days ports in the intake manifold.

Now that I have the engine and radiator completely drained, what is a good product and a good procedure to flush the system? 1980 was a long time ago.

 
Your parts stores sell a Pestone flush kit that will have everything you need and tell you how to use it.
 
To summarize the summerizing of the cooling system, you will want to get the kit that allows you to force water through your cooling system.
Dorman-47016-rw-51259-60672.jpg

Summarily you will drain, refill with water and flush fluid.
as-107.jpg

Run the engine and then drain again. Refill with coolant and water.
 
Non of the "do it yourself" flushes are as effective as having a real radiator shop do your flush. You simply can't buy the chemicals they use. If your serious, get a professional to do it for you. If you want to do some maintenance a driveway flush never hurts.
 
I had a lot of buildup in the sixes radiator and just got a new one , not because of the crud but the holes anyway as an experiment we filled it with the zep version of C.L.R it worked so good we did the new sevens radiator and saved a few bucks. Hmmmm. Clr in radiator.pine-sol carb dip I wonder if liquid drano would clear up that q-trac valve body that's sticky? Btw we use donaldsons radiator flush it's a commercial radiator flush that a lot of shops use and kind of expensive but what it really is is a mix of 10-30% sodium metasilicate and water. The sodium metasilicate can be had from eBay or a janitorial supply shop.The water well....
 
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I think where the commercial shops do a better job is in flushing out the engine itself.
 
I can honestly say, last year my radiator fluid was more rust than fluid. I bought a good flush chemical 2 stage system and its now still gorgeous and green. But it was not to solve a problem only to prevent one.
 
A flush, no matter who does it is deffinately a good idea.
 
I can honestly say, last year my radiator fluid was more rust than fluid. I bought a good flush chemical 2 stage system and its now still gorgeous and green. But it was not to solve a problem only to prevent one.

Do you remember what you bought? I'm in the process of cleaning my system and was disheartened when I removed the thermostat.
 
I got Prestone flush and cleaner 2 for 1, 22 ounce. I bought two and will run it through again in about three months. I just poured off the stuff I drained ( distilled water plus one bottle of cleaner) and could see metallic residue in the bottom of the plastic catch basin, almost like black gold dust in its density and persistence in the bottom of the plastic pan. Didn't look as bad as I had anticipated; not a lost of rust coloring the water. I don't have a good history of my Jeep, bought in 2009, but I think the radiator is not original - it is too clean.

I ran the Prestone flush for about six hours before I drained the radiator dry, as per instructions.

I read a lot about airplanes (retired flier, USAF and ANG), and the recip engines generally relied on ethylene glycol for cooling. I'm going to study up to see if, since I don't need anti-freeze, I would be better served with another liquid as coolant. I have only rarely seen 190F as tops on my temp gauge.
 
Do you remember what you bought? I'm in the process of cleaning my system and was disheartened when I removed the thermostat.

That post is 5+ years old and the poster has not be 'on' in over 5 yrs.....
LG
 

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