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T176 and Dana 300 parts supplier

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T176 and Dana 300 parts supplier
Yeah was thinking of upgrading to a hydraulic clutch from Novak after the summer!
Just wanted to stop all the leaks initially but thought I may as well rebuild the gearbox and Transfer Case while its out. Clutch friction plate is worn to the rivets and throwout bearing is rough hence the question about Novaks adjustable one.
Only had the jeep a month and its already in bits haha.
 
Check the pilot bearing. Bet it's 'toast'.
Hydro is a whole new set of headaches.
I'm talk'n about a Heim joint setup. Put one in mine some 25 yrs ago. No issues to date. Also, replace the bushings inside your bellcrank.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52026_100.htm

LG
 
Just had a look at the link and seems a good idea, does it replace the entire cable from pedal to release arm? Right hand drive so would need different kit?

When I find out what the pilot bearing is I will check it, sorry to be a dumb *** lol.

thanks for your advice Lumpy
 
Hi lumpy, mine is a 74 chassis and rear tube, an 80 motor and think it's an 83 gearbox and Transfer Case . It's got bits of all sorts on it I think.
The clutch is cable operated from pedal to bell housing and is rather heavy!
Even though the jeep is bits of everything it still looks great, always brings a smile to my face! And they are rare over here in the UK.
 
IF the chain conversion would work. Might be worth looking into.
Hoping that getting parts to you, isn't cost prohibitive.
LG
 
Thanks Lumpy, will look at the chain conversion but going to do a bit or research on a hydro as well I think.
Its when I buy larger heavier items that it get expensive, and the UK government charges me 20% for the privilege, bless em lol.

Oh while you are here Lumpy, was comparing twin stick shifters with Novak and the one you have from JB. Novak says that you have to change something inside the case to get the full range of gears! Is that not the case with the JB set up?

Cheers
 
Can't answer you about the twin stick deal. I have never installed one and still run the OEM single stick on my D/300.
LG
 
They are referring to the shift rail interlock pills.
picture.webp

You remove these allowing you to select just front or just rear or both axles together in either high or low range. Pretty much any drive pattern that you want. A word of caution about twin sticks after removing the pills. You want to make sure that you never put one axle in high range and the other in low range. This will create a bind situation and can be difficult to get the Transfer Case out of gear. Trying to drive like this will damage the Transfer Case , and possibly other drive components.
 
Thanks for that mr bass player, that makes perfect sense now. Not got the 300 stripped yet so didn't know. Not going to strip it until the rebuild kit arrives from Novak.

Thanks
 
CJAndy said:
Thanks for that mr bass player, that makes perfect sense now. Not got the 300 stripped yet so didn't know. Not going to strip it until the rebuild kit arrives from Novak.



Thanks
Click to expand...



That's a good idea, that helps you remember how to put it back together, and it cuts down on the lists parts as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have the JB sticks and have full range with the pills still in my 300. I might be wrong , but I believe the pill thing is for the earlier T-cases.
 
Oh that's interesting hole, can you engage only the front axle and put the rear in neutral?
 
Yes, each axle can be engaged independent of the other. Like I said before though, make sure that if both axles are engaged, they are in the same gear range. high/high or low/low.
 
We have the JB Fab twin stick, and a T-18 with reverse right and up. To help minimize confusion I made a sticker for the glove box. Oh and mriplaybass is my better half.
e528b5b5c16e04b7ce5b8e7fd75a02cb.jpg
 
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