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the punkin angle

the punkin angle

whitmore1325

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Location
sioux city,iowa
Vehicle(s)
1980 cj7
:confused::confused::confused::confused:ok i have a 1980 CJ7 on a chevy frame 3/4 ton running gear.
the drive shaft angles are horrible and not right... how do i got about changing the angle or rotating the diff housing.. i did the shims before on the front and messed the whole steering up.. so now i have it back the way it was but i need both the front and rear angled up for drive shaft and u joint purposes




please help
 
Sounds like you must have quite a bit of lift, so I'm going to asume you have cv style driveshafts.
If you do the pumpkin yoke should point up at the Transfer Case yoke.
The best way is to reweld the spring perches in the right place.
Just doing this will work fine for the rear. If you do this in the front also
you will need to cut the C's off the axle ends and reweld them on for the
correct caster.
Here's some good info on driveshaft angles Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive
 
Sounds like you must have quite a bit of lift, so I'm going to asume you have cv style driveshafts.
If you do the pumpkin yoke should point up at the Transfer Case yoke.
The best way is to reweld the spring perches in the right place.
Just doing this will work fine for the rear. If you do this in the front also
you will need to cut the C's off the axle ends and reweld them on for the
correct caster.
Here's some good info on driveshaft angles Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

Thanks its ten susprnsion 3 body build for 40s all we have is mud n water but cant wait to hit the jamborees thanks for the info

2012-12-03 13.55.15.webp
 
HAHA, WOW, i'd like to see that going down the highway at 55:D:D
 
Got any pics, not I don't believe you, but want to see how crazy that looks. :D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Was that truck white with a red interior? My cousin had a truck with the same setup. I'm 6' tall and the bottom of the door jamb hit me about chest high. I could barely open the dang door!


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.
 
Sounds like you must have quite a bit of lift, so I'm going to asume you have cv style driveshafts.
If you do the pumpkin yoke should point up at the Transfer Case yoke.
The best way is to reweld the spring perches in the right place.
Just doing this will work fine for the rear. If you do this in the front also
you will need to cut the C's off the axle ends and reweld them on for the
correct caster.
Here's some good info on driveshaft angles Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

:agree:

I did this on my Jeep on the rear diff. Here's some pics (I had cracks in the diff tubing around spring perches, but still had a bad line up on the pinion angle):

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/leaky-dana-44-crack-12692/index2.html#post101602

believe it or not we actually eyeballed the angle for the rear and went with it. It's been fine for a while now, with no problems, and no shims!

Heres some more good info: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/rear-driveline-angle-12684/


:chug:
~ JR
 
I'm not sure to tell you the truth... Have never thought of going that high up! :eek::oops:

Personally I don't like Transfer Case drop kits, but I also try to keep a low center of gravity AND high ground clearance balanced, so having everything tucked up in there is important to me.

Your style of wheeling is different as you stated. (and there aint nothing wrong with that buddy! :D )

I'm thinking 2" of drop on tail end of the Transfer Case though has got to be affecting the entire drive train angle and clearances... :confused::confused:

wouldn't that effectively raise the output shaft of front driveline? that may make the front worse??

I'm just not familiar enough with the particulars on all that to give you a good answer myself! :notworthy:

:chug:
~ JR
 
I'm thinking 2" of drop on tail end of the Transfer Case though has got to be affecting the entire drive train angle and clearances... :confused::confused:

wouldn't that effectively raise the output shaft of front driveline? that may make the front worse??
~ JR
:agree:The front would be way out of wack IMO.
 
Really there are many ways to do it wrong, shims,grind away at cast pearch and re-locate welded pearch,re-configure front susp. Mounting points ,I.e. lower the front spring mounts on the frame thereby rotating the diff, all are wrong and will cause poor at best, more likely dangerous handling characteristics . The correct way is to remove the inner c's and clock them retaining the correct caster, not easy for sure .....but if it were everybody would do it.
 
Sorry about that half a post . You will still néed to rotate the diff. Drivers side is easy wack it and re-weld it .diff side about harder we use a 4" grinder and re angle the pad till its right you will notice the hole that locates the spring pin is at the wrong angle now .take a double cut carbide correct the angle , now its to big right? Thats ok too go down to the local leafspring store and get some new pins with the same dia. But bigger heads grind them down till they fit snug now put them in the springs then weld the other side to match then bolt it up set it on stands line inner cs up at whatever caster degree your comfortable with 8 deg or so????? Scribe the two for reference on both sides remove the axle have your best friend hold it ,take your cleaned up inner cs warm them up and hammer them on then weld them see easier than spinach dip.
 
I'm working on a 60 Min. Claymation as we speak ...hard too make the inner cs with this stuff. Any ideas??????
 

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