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Theoretical question - flat towing lights

Theoretical question - flat towing lights

JR74CJ5

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Plumas Lake, CA, USA
Vehicle(s)
1974 CJ5 ~ Fresh built AMC 360 - SM420 - D20 - D30F with upgraded 30 spline shafts and knuckles & D44R - 4.27 Gears - ARB Lockers F/R - All chrome molly axles - on 33's - YJ 4" Lift Spring Conversion
I want to tow the CJ5 with a motorhome.

Was looking at the simple magnetic (which you have to zip tie down) light kits to plug into the towing 4 pin plug. Then seen this and had a thought...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YNF8SMU?psc=1

Theoretically, could I plug one end of this 20 foot extension cord into the back of the RV and the other into the back of the jeep where I would normally plug my trailers in for CJ lights to run the trailer, and have the RV trailer system run my CJ's already present lights?

Possible draw backs I've though of, would the electrical current travel up to my headlights?

I would have my headlight switch off in the CJ.

Maybe me trying to save $20 to $30 is over thinking this a bit, but was curious...

I plan to remove the battery lead from my jeep while towing so I can leave ignition on to keep steering unlocked, so the relay to the headlights wouldn't have the dedicated source to pass through the relay to the headlights, but not sure still if this is a good idea or a sober but crackpot idea...

Simpler ideas, thoughts, crackpot jokes and general schooling / advice all welcome on this thread ;)

On separate topic, I plan to remove my rear driveshaft and leave front hubs unlocked while I tow the CJ flat (4 tires on ground) from Sacramento, CA to Ouray, CO (yup trail ride thread ;) ) 1000 miles. The pinion slinger should keep my Dana 44 rear plenty lubed, and no other gears should be turning to wear with in adequate lube / oiling...

I read a lot of threads on flat towing, and there is a lot of opinions on this and whys etc. I find my above idea to be the simplest for me to feel good about towing the jeep so far, but if I am missing something, please let me know...

:chug:
 
Following, as I want to do the same with my 5.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JR howdy, if you put diodes in the line upstream toward front that would prevent feed back, otherwise the turn signal will feed back thru t/s switch.I used the H/F magnetic lights on the CJ5 with no problem of having lights come off fwiw. Should be good with rear driveline disconnect,etc. mike
 
So if you installed diodes they would prevent 2 way current from the diode up.

At this point, I'll just get these magnetic ones, and for good measure I'll secure them, but now it's more of a theory question maybe for emergencies...

If the current did travel up to the turn signal and running lights switches, the light switch being off would stop that current, and the turn signal switch would go through to the front turn signals at the worst right?

Otherwise, it would work? The lights on the rear of the CJ would operate through the current from the normally output tail on the CJ being the now input tail?

I'm sure I'm not the first one to have this idea, and others have probably shot it down as if they were willing to hack up the wiring they'd correctly install a towing harness pigtail adapter... just got me curious and thinking why not...
 
If you used the t/s it would back feed to t/s switch thru brake light circuit and back to other side. Same with taillight/dash panel/ park lights .Hook up a test wire and try it out.Lets know what you find. mike
 
Unplug the front parking/turn lamps is all that's needed.
A dash mounted toggle switch properly wired would accomplish the same thing.
You have to disconnect the feedback thru the turn signal switch somewhere along the line.
This is true whether you hook up tow wiring to the front of the Jeep as well.
If you don't, then all the lights will flash when using the turn signals.

The headlights don't come into play, totally different circuit.
 
If it matters, I suppose I should have mentioned I rewired whole jeep with EZ wire harness and fuse box...

GM style column (and turn switch).

I'm going with (already ordered) the stand alone magnetic type for towing to Colorado, but this interested me and I don't have my CJ here to play with it lol...

Could be useful in emergency towing application though. May install diodes later and then hook all up with test wires to see what it would do and resurrect this later...
 
I have a standard, round 4 lug/wire female trailer plug installed in the lower drivers side of my grille and wired into the rear light harness of my Painless harness. I plug into my tow vehicle ( male, standard 7 lug/terminal) on the rear of my tow vehicle, and plug the male 4 lug/terminal into the front of my Jeep. I disconnect/unplug the LF turn/marker lamp (to eliminate the feedback) and away we go. It's that simple.
 
JR howdy, if you put diodes in the line upstream toward front that would prevent feed back, otherwise the turn signal will feed back thru t/s switch.I used the H/F magnetic lights on the CJ5 with no problem of having lights come off fwiw. Should be good with rear driveline disconnect,etc. mike

The diode trick lets you use the Jeep's lights.
I have been towing my CJ like this for many years behind my RV.
When I tow my CJ more than 100 miles. I will disco the DS at the rear pinion. Then slide a sock over the u-joint and the hang the DS with a chain on to a hook I have under the Jeep. Only takes about 5 minutes to do.
DON'T FORGET TO UNLOCK THE STEERING WHEEL. :D
LG
 
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Theyv got wireless ones now...saw them at Northern just the other day...good up to 60' of length, if I recall correctly
 
I have a standard, round 4 lug/wire female trailer plug installed in the lower drivers side of my grille and wired into the rear light harness of my Painless harness. I plug into my tow vehicle ( male, standard 7 lug/terminal) on the rear of my tow vehicle, and plug the male 4 lug/terminal into the front of my Jeep. I disconnect/unplug the LF turn/marker lamp (to eliminate the feedback) and away we go. It's that simple.

This is probably the easiest way to accomplish what you want. The harness that comes down along the driver's side to the rear is what powers the lights and has the single fuel sensor wire in it. A plug somewhere here would allow you to unplug the Jeep power and plug in the motorhome power.
 
Unplug the front parking/turn lamps is all that's needed.
A dash mounted toggle switch properly wired would accomplish the same thing.
You have to disconnect the feedback thru the turn signal switch somewhere along the line.
This is true whether you hook up tow wiring to the front of the Jeep as well.
If you don't, then all the lights will flash when using the turn signals.

The headlights don't come into play, totally different circuit.
You are correct in opening the circuit.I have done this many times before diode where used.What I have done is splice a loop in one of the rear miketurn signal wires where they come down firewall and put a toggle switch in the line as you said.Where we differ is unplugging the front turn signals won't take care of feed back thru the brake light circuit to the rear.Front and rear t/s circuits are seperate otherwise your front t/s lights would come on when you applied the brakes. Nothing new but I much prefer the diode method so you don't have to mess with the toggle switch.
 
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Great info thread - thanks to all

:chug:
 
You only need a 4 wire lead to the Jeep for lights.
Those leads are GND, right turn, left turn, and running lights.
You want a dedicated GND here. Many folks mistakenly think you'll have an proper GND via the tow bar, YOU DON'T ;)
I would suggest that the towing vehicle, have a HD turn-flasher installed.
LG
 

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