To buy or not? CJ7...

[Jonathan6140]

I am close to buying this cj off Craigslist and since I am new to CJ's... I want some advice if its a good deal.

1986 Jeep CJ 7

The seller mentions the jeep passed the deq vehicle inspection in Portland. So I guess that means its running good? None the less, the jeep was recently painted black, but was previously grey. The only thing painted was the exterior. The right fender was also replace with a fiberglass one, I'm guessing because of a prior wreck or something. . Does not have any rust.

Is the jeep with it, and what should I look for when purchasing it?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[rr41mag]

That's what mine looked like when I bought it. Except it had a hard top. Here it is now

 

[alpha6]

Looks good. No rust is a big deal, but check it out...especially where there is carpet. The engine looks good and it has some upgrades on the trim that look good....not a bad price for something you don't have to put any money into.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Passing DEQ in Portland is a good thing, similar to Washington requirements but as the jeep over 25 years old no longer subject to Whasington testing. I didn’t see the note about the fiberglass fender in the listing but maybe it comes from a conversation you had with the seller. I am suspect of the “perfect” tub comment as I doubt it but an OEM CJ tub in “good” condition is all that can be asked for. A soft top with the carpet kit will be problematic as I’ve never seen a CJ soft top that didn’t leak and leaving a wet carpet on non-galvanized sheet metal will only lead to rusty floorboards. (Whose idea was it to put carpet in a CJ anyway? My first CJ, a 1972 CJ5 , had factory holes in the floor with push to the side covers to make it easy for the water to drain after hosing out the mud.)

I’m not sure there is enough space to tell you everything you need to know about picking a Jeep but grab a flashlight and crawl under and have a good look at the frame checking for cracks, tweaks, and the like; anything bent raises a flag. Also while there look for oil leaks and where they might be coming from such as seals. Rust that doesn’t show on the outside of the tub may be visible from underside of the tub, particularly up high behind the rear wheel wells on either side of the fuel tank. I sight down both sides of the tub from end to end to see if things look straight and also check to see if the right side of the jeep is the same distance from the ground as the left (close counts); this is and indication of whether or not the frame is straight. Ask that the seller not drive the jeep before you get there so that the motor is cold for initial startup; put your hand on the radiator or motor to make sure. If not they may be trying to hide something. Remember blue smoke = burning oil, white smoke = water (possible head gasket) Speaking of the head gasket, check the dip stick and the bottom of the oil filler cap for a milky white residue; another indication of head gasket troubles. Also on cold start up take the radiator cap off (must be a COLD radiator) and look for bubbles as the motor warms up as this too can indicate head gasket troubles. Then check to make sure everything works. The test drive will tell you a lot. How does the motor run; strong/weak, stalling, hesitation, excessive exhaust? How does the jeep handle; steering loose, front end wander, does it stop? Common sense goes a long way here and if you mind is telling you this isn’t the one walk away, it’s your money. There is a thing called Jeep Fever where the brain dismisses the bad convincing you it isn’t that bad, you can fix that. Just remember that jeep parts cost money so factor that into your offer.

I don’t live too far from North Portland but I’m moving this weekend or I’d probably run over and have a look at it for you; it will be next week before I would have a chance. Hope that helps.

 

[Jonathan6140]

Wow, thanks for the response. I will have to check that stuff out when I go to view it!

 

[poppatello]

Ask why only 1 fiberglass fender. I would be concerned with that as well. I never heard of a 5 speed in a Cj and the looks of the shift tells me it's a T-4 . Guess it could be a T-5 but again never heard of a Cj coming stock with one.

Take it for a test run. When you get there see if the jeep is warmed like it was running before you got there. If so this is also a flag. Could mean trouble starting cold or fuel, choke issues. That looks like a Weber carb so it should have some issues. When you do take it for a test run get on the gas and see how it reacts. It should be smooth and down right ready to play. If it chokes, sputters, or coughs you know there is a fuel issue somewhere that would require some investigating and elbow grease.

Other then that it looks nice. A little to nice for a low ball number IMO. Something smells fishing.

Like stated above, get under it and check it out. You want to look towards the rear of the frame in the area of the fuel tank. Take a screw driver and see if you can poke holes in the frame. There are factory holes back there that allows water, salt, moister in the frame tubes and rots them out from the inside-out. Check the body mounts around the frame. This is also a bad area for Cj's. Look for signs of over spray or fresh spray paint under the body as well. Not may folks paint under the jeep unless trying to hide something.

Good luck with it and let us know what you see. Hope you don't get buyers remorse and end up wishing you didn't get it. Happens all the time with anything we want. Go there with a level head knowing another one is right around the corner.

My pop used to always tell me, you are shopping for the deal. The right one will come along and patient is vertued.

Again good luck...

 

[Jonathan6140]

Thanks for the posts. I've talked with the seller a few times. It's a jeep he's restored with his grandfather. He said the fender was replaced by a precious owner and doesn't know the deal behind it. He has sent me a walk-around video of the jeep to include him starting it. The man is either sincere that he lost his job and has to sell it, or is buttering me up because something is wrong. I guess we'll find out tomorrow or Sunday when I go to check it out.

 

[wm69]

I would be concerned with that as well. I never heard of a 5 speed in a Cj and the looks of the shift tells me it's a T-4 . Guess it could be a T-5 but again never heard of a Cj coming stock with one.

T-5 's are actually really common in the mid-80's CJ's. They are NOT the same as the world class T-5 's though, they are just a T-4 with Overdrive , so while they hold up ok with stock drivetrain/tires, they tend to blow up when run with V8's or big tires.

You want to get a 400 page thread started ask people what fluid to run in a Jeep T-5 ! Some people say ATF, some people say 90W, some people say 10W40. I've had 75-90W in mine since around 1993 (about 50K miles since then) and it's still doing fine, but I have a T177 in the shop waiting to go in if/when the T-5 gives up the ghost.

To OP, Webers are good carbs, but can be finiky to tune. Biggest and hardest thing to fix on a CJ is RUST. Take a magnet with you with a thin piece of cloth (so you don't scratch the paint) and run that magnet all over the Jeep. Repaints are good at hiding bondo, which means RUST. Most common places are under doors (rockers), especially right in front of the rear wheel.

It is runs, doesn't smoke, and doesn't have rust, it looks pretty good from the pics.

On a Jeep you gotta crawl under them and look over them CLOSELY.

 

[Petescj]

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f102/cj-buyers-guide-13328/

 

[Jonathan6140]

Hearing reviews of the T-5 kind of scares me... I found the following automatics... I think they are both T400. What do you think.

1976 Jeep

1978 Cj 7

 

[Petescj]

Id like to hear what you want out of your Cj. It would help me try and point you in the right direction. On road driver? rock climber? mud bogger? weekend warrior? What are you looking for.

 

[Jonathan6140]

Primarily to joy ride back and forth to work. <10 miles. I would also use it in the snow and to take the family on light trails. Nothing hardcore.

 

[Petescj]

From that description you should be fine with just about any Cj as long as its in decent condition. Heres a couple links that may be helpful.

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/manual-cj-transmissions-12112/

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/automatic-cj-transmissions-12123/

 

[Old Dog]

The blue one has alot of mods that might or might not have been done right. For your needs I think the yellow one would be better. just my 2 cents.

 

[Jonathan6140]

The blue has some bondo on the typical rust areas on the body. Should bondo be a complete deal breaker with the cj? I think I'm going to go with the yellow one if its still available?

 

[wm69]

I'd get one with a T-5 and Dana 300 Transfer Case before i'd get one with a QuadraTrac . Just my personal preference.

 

[TroyaCantrell]

Lbartleyrx4:

 

[TroyaCantrell]

Wow, never pocket posted before. Guess I have to remember to lock the keyboard.

 

[Petescj]

Maybe your phone is telling you you want another Cj.

Wow, never pocket posted before. Guess I have to remember to lock the keyboard.

 

[TroyaCantrell]

Could be, it better talk to my wife first or we will both be in the dog house.