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79 CJ5 , manual hubs in 2 wheel, Transfer Case in neutral, Transmission in neutral, do I disconnect the drive shaft ? getting different stories , yes no?
does it make a difference , long haul, short haul, Thanks
1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
For a long trip it is worth it to remove the rear drive shaft and unlock the hubs. That way you eliminate moving parts.
For a short trip lock the hubs and put the TCase in neutral.
Check out this thread: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/front-hubs-towing-3458/
Originally I thought getting towed with the hubs unlocked was like driving in two wheel drive.
So then I emailed the guys at TeraFlex the makers of the TeraLow Transfer kit. They explained it to me. Whenever you drive the jeep the input gear is always turning. This is rotating gears on every shaft. Even if they are not transferring power they are transferring oil throughout the Transfer Case . I made this gif to illustrate how the Transfer Case works. Any gear that is red is transferring power. Any gear that is blue is free-wheeling on it's shaft. Black gears are not rotating. When you shift a Transfer Case there are two gears you are sliding on their shafts. These sliding gears either lock themselves onto the shaft if they are moved to the front of the Transfer Case . Or if they move to the rear they mesh with the idle gear.
Four wheel drive low is confusing. Keep in mind the main drive shaft from the Transmission is rotating faster than the out rear drive shaft. Power is transferred from the Transmission gear to the idle gear and then back to the two drive shafts.
Many other gear driven transfer cases, such as the Dana 300 , are made this way. This is why you should always have the front hubs locked when getting towed. Either the front drive shaft OR the Transmission needs to be rotating the gears in the Transfer Case . The rear drive shaft can't rotate the necessary gears.
This dispels a common misunderstanding. Lock your hubs when getting towed.
I wouldn't do that. I'd leave it in gear too. You may get a mixed bag of opinions, but suspect a lot of jeeps go through much more drive train strain on the trail than a chained down jeep on a trailer.
When I tow my Ford tractor on my trailer, first I drive it on the trailer and put it in Neutral, and emergency brake on so it doesn't roll. Put a chain on the rear of the tractor to the rear of the trailer as tight as you can. Use Come-Along (mines cable style) on the front chain to pull the vehicle forward until the rear chain is tight (hence neutral). Then I put the vehicle in gear since it can't move anyway along with the emergency break.
I put it in gear so that if I have to slam on brakes, my life isn't relying solely on a chain.
I wouldn't do that. I'd leave it in gear too. You may get a mixed bag of opinions, but suspect a lot of jeeps go through much more drive train strain on the trail than a chained down jeep on a trailer.
I towed mine in neutral, hubs unlocked. About 70 miles one way. The problem is with lights. I bought a set of trailer lights, mounted them to a piece of aluminum angle then clamped them to the back. I had to ground them too.
The problem is with lights. I bought a set of trailer lights, mounted them to a piece of aluminum angle then clamped them to the back. I had to ground them too.
We use small utility trailers with chemical tanks and solar pumps attached at work. They sit on customer locations for months on end and the lights were constantly being stolen.
Solution was a set of lights that have the magnet bases. They are taken away after the trailer is moved and would work well attached to CJ rear bumpers as well it would seem...
I towed mine in neutral, hubs unlocked. About 70 miles one way. The problem is with lights. I bought a set of trailer lights, mounted them to a piece of aluminum angle then clamped them to the back. I had to ground them too.
For the longer flat tows the factory had specific instructions in the owner's manual on how to flat tow. The rear lights can be unplugged under the dash and used for towing.
The owners manual says
1. Turn ignition switch to off position to unlock steering wheel.
2. Shift Transmission into gear and the Transfer Case into neutral.
3. Turn selective drive hubs to 4x4 position, for axle lubrication.
NOTE: When towing a vehicle over 200 miles, stop ever 200 miles. With the Transfer Case still in neutral and Transmission in gear, start and rev engine for about one minute to circulate oil in the Transfer Case .
mike
