Turn key solenoid clicks....

[stivel74cj5]

I have a a 74 CJ5 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l which i believe has been swapped with a 75 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . Ive replaced the battery, starter, starter solenoid, and ignition coil. I am still only getting a single click from under the hood. Ive bypassed the solenoid using jumper cables and the starter spun (i had taken the starter off the jeep) the ignition switch is new from previous owner. the wiring harness is gone and replaced by a rats nest by the PO and no ignition module but 2 small fuze boxes. one has a constant from battery and one is on only during the 'run' mode. i have cleaned the connections and grounds, and replaced wires running from battery -to- solenoid -to- starter. and battery-to- ground (engine block). I am at a complete loss please help

 

[H4zY]

Sounds like the ignition cylinder lock has failed. Should be able to pick one up at the local auto parts store for $20. Make sure you get the puller for the stearing wheel and the lock plate tool to remove the c- clip. Some auto parts stores rent these tool. Hope this helps.

 

[stivel74cj5]

The ignition switch is the dash. (so no need for renting tools ) I borrowed a volt meter and it read that current was getting through properly. thanks tho. H4zY

 

[Jimbos76cj]

IF it clicks when you turn the key the cylinder lock has not failed. No click equals fail. Put a test light on the wires going to the solenoid if you get power to both wires with the ignition on then your key is good. Then check the side of the solenoid that comes from the battery. If its got 12v then check the other side. Have some one turn the key, if you dont get 12v on the other lug then your solenoid is bad... I know you said you just replaced it but Ive seen more then one new solenoid be bad from the parts store. IF you get 12v from the starter side of the solenoid then check where the wire goes bolts into the starter 12v? if you cant find it after that its time for a viking funeral.

by single click does it do it every time you turn the key or one when you turn it and then nothing when you turn it again.

One last "old School" check is to turn on the head lights and then turn the key. If the light dim then you have a battery problem, no dim a starting circuit problem.

 

[stivel74cj5]

It clicks once every time I turn it to start and it makes a dull click when it goes from start to run.

 

[jasonmark1993]

Nice work Jim.

First time I've seen anybody else through out the headlight test.

Since you were able to make it work on the ground with jumper cables I'd take a look at your positive and neg batt. cables. Chances are, you would be able to turn the starter on the ground with the vehicles cables attached (jumper wire for ground) because there would be no load.

If you have a voltmeter, put one lead on the positive batt terminal and one on the positive lead down at the starter. You should see 0 volts. Watch the meter when you crank. It should say 0 volts indicating that you have equal voltage at the battery as you do at the starter. If the meter reads voltage during cranking, you are losing continuity somewhere. Work the lead that is on the starter back towards the battery one connection at a time. Try cranking and note the voltage at each point. Once you see 0.0v while cranking again, you have found the poor connection. Sometimes you'll see a significant drop right at the pos. batt terminal and you just need to clean it. I've seen plenty where it looks perfect but you're losing 10v between the post and the cable.

You can do this on the ground side too.

 

[stivel74cj5]

Thanks everyone! I re-wire brushed all connections and grounds. I took the 'new' starter solenoid back and replaced it with a beefier BWD S63 solenoid, she fired right up. There was a reading coming from the old solenoid I guess it wasn't enough...(don't remember what it was) Thanks again!