turning knuckles on dana 30

[3wheelingCJ]

I did a 2" lift with 1" shackle lift and now my caster is off. Put in 4' shims and the steering got better but I'm still a couple degrees shy of perfect.

I'm looking for different options on how to fix it. My preferred method would be cutting off and turning inner Cs, but I'm lacking necessary welding skills.
My second option is to get 6' shims, but I don't feel comfortable with that in the front axle and the center bolts will be too short. Also planning on upgrading to 33" tires from 31" and that will affect the caster as well so 6' shims may not be enough.

I have to keep the shackle lift because the new hangers were welded in place to accommodate the extra length (don't live in the same state anymore to have the same person do the welding again).

Any suggestions?
Anyone knows a welder in the bay area that can do the work? I was able to score an empty housing, so no need to take anything apart.

New springs are bds.

Thanks in advance

 

[Lumpy Grits]

What was the caster before you started? You did check it I hope.
What was the caster after mods?
I only used a shim to correct mine.
Use only steel shims. The alloy ones(Zinc)pound out over time.
Think I used 3* to correct mine.
LG

 

[3wheelingCJ]

I didn't check unfortunately, but it tracked a lot better, always went back to center and didn't have death wobble.
Also had reverse shackle kit. Not sure if that makes a difference.
Had alignment checked with 4' shims and it was off from stock by about 2' from stock, don't remember the exact number now.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Go with 6* STEEL shims.
Lot less trouble in the long run.
You'll also have to do the same to the rear axle to correct pinion angle.
LG

 

[73CJ]

Don't guess - measure with magnetic protractor on the top flat of the knuckle.

Play with shims to find the right combination.

Center bolts can be just Allen head bolts available at must auto stores.

Once you know where you are at, then decide on shim or weld. You can cut the old welds out with a grinder and rotate.Should not be hard to find a good weld shop the understands the premise of preheating the casting before welding.

 

[gp4play]

I agree with LG and 73CJ, get a angle gauge and replace the shim and center bolts, think their 3/8 head. I have 4* shims front and rear on a 4" lift works fine. Cutting and welding the "C" on the shaft is expensive and has to be done by someone that knows axles. If your set on not using shims then I would cut and move (weld) the spring pads on the axle instead of the "C". The size of your tire won't change your caster so no worrys there.

Here's the gauge, got mine from Lowes

http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-M..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1WSMR1Z3VB6PY87J61RH

and here's some reading material
Ack's FAQ: Your 4X4 Portal To All Things Suzuki/Geo

 

[Torxhead]

Also consider the front pinion angle will be affected.

 

[3wheelingCJ]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I had alignment done after the shims were installed and will go off those numbers. I just don't remember them exactly right now.

I would prefer to just rotate the pads a little. Got a protractor today, not the same as in a link, but very similar. Will measure the pinion angle, since I know it was changed during the lift install. Hopefully there will be extra couple degrees.

Also found a guy who seems to understand what's involved, but will quiz him some more.
let me know if there are any specific topics that I should ask him about.

 

[Torxhead]

O.K., going beyond the front diff, there is the driveshaft alignment to be considered. This would involve the angle of the Transfer Case output shaft. Lowering the Transfer Case , combined with front shims can screw things up for higher speed 4wd. This doesn't seem to be as critical as rear driveshaft alignment though.

 

[3wheelingCJ]

Yeah I should check that as well.

 

[Old Dog]

I don't see why you would have to move the shackle hanger to put shorter shackles on. It would be a lot cheaper and a lot less work. IMO.
Personally if I was going through that much work I would just narrow a Dana 44 .

 

[3wheelingCJ]

When I tried to put shorter shackles on, they ended up being almost flat. Will have to figure out the right length and have it made custom, since I don't think any standard length would work.
Have considered shortening Dana 44 , but I'm already over my head just getting a stock housing to work. Then I have to get custom axle shafts as well. I might wrong, but from what I've read, with the rights parts d 30 can be plenty strong. At least for what I'm doing with just a 2" lift and 33s.

Measured the caster and pinion angles. Caster is at 2* positive, so as I thought another 2 would make it perfect. The pinion is already about 4* negative from horizontal, so pointing down. That means that rotating pads is out.

so, still thinking of rotating knuckles, but I just looked inside the housing that I got and not really sure about it. Can you guys weigh in if this is worth the effort?

Thanks

 

[Old Dog]

looks like it's complete rebuild time. It can be cleaned up and used with new bearings & will need a good cleaning after grinding & welding anyway.
Your right about the 30 being able to be built to handle 33's if your not to crazy with it.

 

[3wheelingCJ]

Full rebuild was the plan. Was worried about all the raceways with a little rust showing.
Any recommendations on the cleaning process? There is a lot of sludge in the pinion too.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Start with a pressure washer.
LG

 

[3wheelingCJ]

so, putting the cleaning to the side for now, i started the process of cutting off the Cs.
The pics show where i am at, but it doesn't budge. Did some reading and saw suggestions to cut into the knuckle with a cutting disk at about 20*, because of the depth of the weld.
Any hints on how to do that and not mess up the knuckle or go too deep and cut the tube?

Thanks

 

[HackFabrication]

BFH.

Appear you are just about through the outer tube. Take a 3 lb engineer's hammer and tap/rap/smack the C. The torsion might break the thin steel that's left.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The knuckles were a press-fit, before welding at the factory.
There's a 'skirt' that goes the down inside of the tube.
LG

 

[3wheelingCJ]

Ended up taking it to the jeep shop and then re-welded the perches so that the knuckles are at 5deg. Tested the front drive shaft for bind and called it good. Made a huge difference.
Now have to upgrade a busted up ps gear box.

 

[Kane]

Should not be hard to find a good weld shop the understands the premise of preheating the casting before welding.

The inner C's are nodular iron (not cast) and are very easy to weld. They just need to be cooled slowly.