Uh Oh. All of a sudden No Spark

[Posi]

Put your coil lead near the block to test for spark
Turn the key on
While watching the coil lead disconnect the 4 pin connector at the ignition module
Is there spark, or no spark?
If no spark check ohms between D1 of the 4 pin connector and - batt post. Post your finding.
If you find spark, check ohms between D2 and D3. Post your finding.
The pins # should be on the connector.
Or buy the parts and hope you make the right choice.

 

[Posi]

I just read the link you posted looks like everything is there for you.
Some of the delay was your conflicting voltage postings.
I use a step by step process this way I won't miss anything going forward, its just how I do it and it works 100% for me.
However, overall it doesn't seem to work well on this forum, or maybe any forum, so moving forward I'll keep this in mind.

 

[Heavychevy]

Mabe i missed something in reading. Have you ohmed the wire from distributor cap back to coil.

 

[JimsCJ5]

Mabe i missed something in reading. Have you ohmed the wire from distributor cap back to coil.

No I did not. That would have been a good place to start. It checked out OK.

I did replace the pickup in the distributor and it started right up although it is running a little rough. I am going to complete the tune-up and see if I can get it back to normal. I have a new carb from Gronk I want to bolt on when my son gets home from college.
Thanks everyone...
Jim

 

[Torxhead]

Interesting Jim, I have seen pickup coils go bad before but not to a no start condition.

 

[JimsCJ5]

Yeah. It's odd but at least I can drive it into the garage and work on it.
It's still off like a cylinder is not working and it's making an odd tapping noise. The exhaust seems louder than I remembered but maybe that's my imagination. It idles OK but is very down on power and died a couple of times on a test run.
I replaced the plugs and wires and confirmed the firing order was correct. I purchased a new Module but have not put it in yet.

 

[Torxhead]

I have seen those go out a little more often. When the ignition control module goes bad it can start out o.k. but as it warms up it gets worse causing a lot of misfire. If it gets warm to the touch that is a sign its going out. Leaking ooze from the inside is another sign. A poor quality unit can be bad right out of the box. Many moons ago, I bought one from N.A.P.A. and I have had no more problems at the time it was around $80.00. A bad ground can kill one easily. There is a black ground wire coming from it that is the black wire going into the distributor. So driving with a loose distributor hold down can kill it. Another thing that can kill a module is leaving the ignition key on for an extended period. You can just tee into that black with a wire to the battery negative.

That tapping noise could be from a clogged lifter. Using a good detergent oil can clean that out, but it might take awhile.

 

[JimsCJ5]

Problems solved. I'm not sure if it is a result of the new pickup coil being installed or what but the timing was way off. Set the timing back to what it should be and it runs like it used to. I didn't touch the distributor other than to install the new PU so maybe a new PU coil alters the timing enough to throw the timing off?
Anyway, on to the new Gronk carb!