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Unnecessary stuff removal guide

Unnecessary stuff removal guide

Kendallam1

Jeeper
Posts
10
Thanks
0
Location
NC
Vehicle(s)
'80 CJ7, 258 I6, SR4, D300
Hey y'all, I've got a 1980 CJ7 , AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I6, SR4 4 speed manual. What I'm looking for instructions/recommendations for what all I can remove/simplify on my Jeep. I drive it round trip maybe 30 miles a week just to work and back. It's a 3rd vehicle so I'm not depending on it. I don't need great gas mileage because anything in the double digits is better than my truck. I want to basically gut it of everything non-essential. I'd like as simple of an ignition system as possible but still reliability. I know I have a lot of work ahead of me because it's a mismatch of parts from all the PO's. I have the fortune of no emissions or even a safety inspection because she's an antique. State sends me a bill for $10 every year and I get a new sticker without taking it anywhere. So what all would you get rid of? I was already thinking about maybe an HEI and a Weber upgrade to start. Thanks for reading.
 
HEI and a Weber is a real good start, if it has a catalytic converter get rid of it the only vacuum parts that it needs to run is your vacuum advance to your distributor and vacuum to your power brake booster. I would recommend keeping your PCV valve hooked up to your air cleaner so your not smelling the engine vapors. If you have an AMC20 get 1 piece axles. That will make your Jeep pretty simple


Also if you can find a T-176 Transmission it’s much better than the SR4


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HEI and a Weber is a real good start, if it has a catalytic converter get rid of it.

The Cat has already been removed.

The only vacuum parts that it needs to run is your vacuum advance to your distributor and vacuum to your power brake booster.

I thought you could run a distributor without the vacuum advance, but I haven't looked into it at all.

I would recommend keeping your PCV valve hooked up to your air cleaner so your not smelling the engine vapors.

Thanks!

If you have an AMC20 get 1 piece axles.

How do I know what axles I have? Can you figure that out with a VIN code?

J0M93EC005134 is the VIN if it helps

Also if you can find a T-176 Transmission it’s much better than the SR4

I was actually thinking of going with the T-18 longevity and all.bi don't know anything about a T-176 , I'll have to look into it.
 
What can I remove electrical wise? The wiring is an absolute mess so that's why I'm looking to gut it and remove the 1,000çs of unnecessary wires and possibly what they go to.
 
I thought you could run a distributor without the vacuum advance, but I haven't looked into it at all.


You can, just makes for better throttle response and crushing if you have it

I would recommend keeping your PCV valve hooked up to your air cleaner so your not smelling the engine vapors.



Thanks!



If you have an AMC20 get 1 piece axles.



How do I know what axles I have? Can you figure that out with a VIN code?



J0M93EC005134 is the VIN if it helps



https://www.quadratec.com/products/...MI_MG8xPfT3QIV1bfACh2dVwLpEAQYFCABEgJdTfD_BwE If your rear cover looks round like this one you have an AMC20

Also if you can find a T-176 Transmission it’s much better than the SR4



I was actually thinking of going with the T-18 longevity and all.bi don't know anything about a T-176 , I'll have to look into



T-18 would be the best T-176 is better for street and probably a lot cheaper to get






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The T-18 and T-176 are both good transmissions for different purposes. The granny gear T-18 is what I have and it's great for wheeling, but it's a 3 speed on the street, and has long (and somewhat clunky) shifts. The T-176 isn't quite as strong, but is plenty strong enough for a CJ with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . It's a true 4 speed, drives smoother, and is lighter than the T-18 . If you want the granny gear for crawling, then I would look at the Ford NP435 over the T-18 . Very similar Transmission , but with better gearing than the T-18 .

Also, how the hell do you get your tags renewed for $10?
 
What can I remove electrical wise? The wiring is an absolute mess so that's why I'm looking to gut it and remove the 1,000çs of unnecessary wires and possibly what they go to.

How much stuff do you want to work (lights, wipers, heater, gauges, etc)? Or are you just talking about the ignition wiring?

Your '80 doesn't have the computer and extra wiring like some of the later model 258s. Swapping to an HEI distributor would allow you to get rid of several wires going to the ICM and to the distributor. I think the HEI's are a 1 wire hookup. Your current ICM has 6 wires IIRC.
 
How much stuff do you want to work (lights, wipers, heater, gauges, etc)? Or are you just talking about the ignition wiring?

I'd like to have lights, wipers, and gauges, but they don't work right now lol. Is there anyway to get a wiring diagram of basically just what is needed for it to run?

Your current ICM has 6 wires IIRC.

I don't have a clue what that means, sorry got my ignorance.
 
For the taxes and registration it cost me $56 a year and I don't have to have an inspection. Sorry about the miscommunication.

Also, how the hell do you get your tags renewed for $10?[/QUOTE]
 

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