Engine Valve train "gunk"

[CJ7Simon]

1983 CJ7 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l L inline 6
I would appreciate some advice. I want to address my leaking valve cover (gasket), so I removed the cover and found that the entire valve train is filthy with a thick gunk (see pictures). #1. Does that mean the oil pump is not lubricating this area well enough? #2. What I really want to know is if this condition can be cleaned without removing the head. I'd appreciate your guidance.

Simon

 

[Manic Mechanic]

You need to change your oil more often that's sludge

 

[CJ7Simon]

Thanks for your reply. I do understand that, and in the six months I've owned it the oil's probably been changed monthly. My neighbor sold it to me after sitting unused in his driveway for 6 years. He was hopeful of making this a father son project until he realized he had no skills!

Any thoughts about safely cleaning it?

 

[Manic Mechanic]

What was the oil pressure when running?
I can promise you if the valve Trane looks like that so does the rest of the oil system.

If you get a good cleaner (they make additives to mix with oil to brake that up and run out with the change) I'm almost positive that your other seals will begin to leak. When you do the cleaners use cheap oil since your just going to dump it anyway

 

[CJ]

As stated, I am worried that your seals are dri rotted I'm not going to go in this because I'm on n my phone and it's hard to type with one finger.

 

[FEDUKE]

Maybe the PCV stopped working 20 years ago. And all that unburnt fuel vapor turned to sludge.

 

[KRUPP]

My current AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l looked about the same under it's valve cover. It sat in a shed in Southern Colorado for about 20 years.

I think it's a matter of the lighter elements and additives in the oil drying out. Plus, if parked outside, the daily temperature swings cause the air and moisture to actually move up into the valve cover and back down to the oil pan. This cycle also causes condensation to form inside the valve cover. Over years, this combines to make this sticky/crusty varnish.

Just do the best you can with a shop vac for the big stuff. Then, like previously mentioned, do a couple oil changes over a short period and check it out again. Adding a cleaner or even diesel to the oil will help too with the cleaning.

Most of the crud should soften through this process and make it's way down into the oil pan. Eventually, I would advise on dropping the oil pan to see the accumulation and seriously consider a new oil pump from there.
It probably needs a new oil pan gasket and rear main seal anyway.

 

[CJ7Simon]

My current 258 looked about the same under it's valve cover. It sat in a shed in Southern Colorado for about 20 years.

I think it's a matter of the lighter elements and additives in the oil drying out. Plus, if parked outside, the daily temperature swings cause the air and moisture to actually move up into the valve cover and back down to the oil pan. This cycle also causes condensation to form inside the valve cover. Over years, this combines to make this sticky/crusty varnish.

Just do the best you can with a shop vac for the big stuff. Then, like previously mentioned, do a couple oil changes over a short period and check it out again. Adding a cleaner or even diesel to the oil will help too with the cleaning.

Most of the crud should soften through this process and make it's way down into the oil pan. Eventually, I would advise on dropping the oil pan to see the accumulation and seriously consider a new oil pump from there.
It probably needs a new oil pan gasket and rear main seal anyway.

Thanks. That's exactly what I've been doing. Just recently I replaced the Oil pan and gasket, and did the RMS. Completely leak free now!