Weber Carb Question

[JMark]

Hello Guys,

Picked up an '84 CJ7 over the weekend with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and the T-5 , weber carb It had a frame off resto in '96 and a fiberglass tub swap then.

Pretty good shape overall, I've got a few issues and am looking for some help on addressing them

1. lowered the windshield, didnt know there was supposed to be a gasket there (it wasnt) found out on sunday night why there was corrosion on some of the stuff behind the dashboard (water
pouring in). Ordered a new cowl weatherstrip from quadratec.

2. Shifter is sloppy, already ordered the parts to resolve that.

3. Aluminum valve cover is leaking, RTV'ed it, still seeping in a few spots, any good link for a plastic valve cover gasket?

4. Fuel gauge only reads 5/8 at full, thinking its probably the sending unit. any ideas?

5. Blower doesnt work, switch is completly shot, once i fix the water intrusion issue, i'll swap the blower and wire up everything nice and clean.

And heres the most interesting problem, cropped up after the valve cover gasket fix and a couple of mud puddles. Engine dies when coming to a stop light, will idle fine if i restart it about
30-45 seconds after it dies. it Idles fine otherwise.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Duhwhat]

The only thing that comes to mind about it dying is that weber recommends a fuel pressure control valve inline. I forgot the rate they suggest, but you should be able to find it pretty easily. If you do have the valve in place it may be bad. I have the valve and then a fuel pressure gauge behind it so I can tell if it is working correctly.

 

[Torxhead]

For #3, getting the valve cover to seal requires cleaning all contact surfaces and a good rtv sealant on all contact surfaces as well. I did that many years ago for a plastic cap and it is still holding up. I just hope I don't ever have to remove it. #4 is probably a sending unit float adjustment, the gas tank could use a cleaning i'm sure anyway. Some guys cut a hole over the sending unit and install a door in the bed for easy access. #5, you can install a motor out of a Blazer, and I hear it works quite well.

 

[JMark]

Wow, thanks for the information!

I took the CJ to a shop that has a few old timers in house and is good with carbs, apparently the weber's idle mixture screw didn't do anything, so they are swapping the carb with a rebuilt core of the same model.

Next things to tackle are the dash leaking and getting some pictures of this beast taken.

I have yet to dig into the steering or the brakes, saving that until i get it running a bit more reliably first.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

The gasket leak may also be from improperly vented motor.. make sure your PVC valve is installed and working correctly.

 

[kickstart]

#4, I put in a new gauge and sending unit and still only get about 3/4 on the gauge. I'm thinking the quality of the available gauges is so-so, just my .02

 

[JMark]

Temp gauge doesnt work either, PO put an aftermarket temp gauge.

They also did some hacking on the dash where the water is coming in, i gotta resolve that somehow.

 

[kickstart]

Temp gauge doesnt work either, PO put an aftermarket temp gauge.

They also did some hacking on the dash where the water is coming in, i gotta resolve that somehow.

I also put in a new Jeep Temp gauge and it worked for a few months and died. I'm thinking a universal (mechanical) type might be the best way to go.

 

[powdertwoplanker]

I'm not sure about this but I heard a big reason some of the stock gauges quit working is the ground gets loose.



Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[JMark]

Being this things got a fiberglass tub, im going to add a distribution block for the grounds under the dash and run it directly back to the battery. That'll ensure a good ground.

 

[Duhwhat]

I have new sending unit and gauge which allows me to say my gauge works. That's about it... I can say it works but in reality it is not reliable and I still write down the mileage at fill up and put gas in it before I think it needs it.