Weird noise / feel when pushing in the clutch while moving

[venom]

I'm surprised, nobody has mentioned clutch or throw out bearing. These wonders of the mechanical world of jeeps are generally 100% correct though. Maybe an odd feeling in the clutch along with noise when the CJ is running is all about the motor and Transmission mounts. No matter what replacing yours would not be wasted money, your engine most certainly is to far back.

Good golly, more to think about I'll start with what I got and go from there. If memory serves me, and it's been hit or miss lately, the clutch was replaced not too long ago.

I would suggest replacing the two front motor mounts first. You will have to move the motor forward to position the mounts up. I was able to push it forward with 2 bottle jacks at an angle pushing the engine up and forward. An engine hoist will work also. If you get the ones from m.o.r.e. it is very noticeable of just how solid those suckers are. I have tried replacing with both the rubber and poly mounts and think the solid mounts are the way to go.

The solid mounts are on the way. Got the shipping notification just a few minutes ago. The last time I replaced the mounts, which is subject to my memory again, I just used a few jacks. I don't have a cherry picker or any other hoist at the moment, but if I need one such is life. I'll go with what I have at first and go from there.

with HH and T'head.
Loosen the tranny mount to help with this movement.
Don't forget the bushings in the clutch bellcrank. BTDT
LG

Bellcrank bushings! Argh! I'll have to order them, because I didn't even know they should be replaced. At least they're relatively cheap. I've only found plastic ones, so I assume that's all there is. You guys are a wealth of information!

Thanks again!

 

[Torxhead]

Bushings are a very good suggestion. Since with the engine shoved back, there is more load on the outer bushing, which I have seen break the bell crank support bracket. Yes, the bushings are plastic. On the Rubicon trail, I once made some from the tops of Coleman propane cannisters.

 

[venom]

Bushings are a very good suggestion. Since with the engine shoved back, there is more load on the outer bushing, which I have seen break the bell crank support bracket. Yes, the bushings are plastic. On the Rubicon trail, I once made some from the tops of Coleman propane cannisters.

Trail repairs can definitely be creative, and sometimes can last longer than the original parts, even though they shouldn't. Not that it's related to our CJs, but I've seen wire tied cv boots go for years longer than the rightful clamps. If I'm being honest with myself, I'll probably run into one of these types of repairs as I'm going back through things.

I ordered the bushing kit, which comes with boots and the little clips, and have been subsequently cut-off from buying anything else until I get the parts in and installed. Now to search for how to replace those when the time comes.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Start soaking the bolts now with penetrant spray.
When you re-attach the mounts, clean the threads up and use a big drop of #242 or #243 blue loctite and just snug the bolts down. You have to let the body flex.
If you overtighten the bolts, you run a good chance of tearing the body mounts up from stress when off-road.
Good luck,
LG

 

[venom]

Okay gurus, I need some assistance, if someone can point me in the right direction. I had a ground strap on my drivers side that went from the top of motor plate to the bottom side of the motor mount bolt that went through the frame mount. I removed the frame mount as part of the new motor mount install, and now my ground strap isn't quite long enough to go from the top side of the motor plate to the frame mount.

Can I go from the bottom of top portion of the new motor mount that is metal to metal to the motor plate to one of the bolts on the frame mount? Does that make sense? Is there a better place for the ground strap? If anyone happens to have a picture, that'd be awesome. Just to add I have no confidence what I have is what should be there, or that it's in the right place / configuration.

Also, not nearly as important, what's that bar for that runs from motor mount to motor mount under the oil pan?

Thanks!

 

[Torxhead]

How about going to the parts store and getting a black battery cable with terminal ends that you could just bolt back in its place. The copper wire is a better conductor anyway. That bar going from motor mount to motor mount helps keep your frame spacing correct.

 

[venom]

How about going to the parts store and getting a black battery cable with terminal ends that you could just bolt back in its place. The copper wire is a better conductor anyway. That bar going from motor mount to motor mount helps keep your frame spacing correct.

That's definitely something I can do. I didn't realize a simple battery cable would carry current the same as the copper strap. I'll probably run out and grab one after I get the rest of the mounts in, assuming I don't figure something else out in the meantime.

The bar went back in a little easier than it came out. I'm guessing it's got something to do with plate thickness. It's all good, and went back in.

Thank you sir!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Make sure that battery cable is copper.
Also-Run you main battery GND to the top mounting bolt of your starter motor.
Use external star washers on this attachment, because they 'bite' into the metal. Use battery spray on the bolts used for the GND attachment.
LG

 

[venom]

Almost all set (pictures in the build thread). I have another issue. One of the captive nuts in the Transmission skid plate came loose somehow, so I only have 2 bolts on the drivers side, and 3 on the passenger, which is opposite of how I took it down. Is there anything easy to do to get another bolt in there? Will it be a huge problem if I don't have the 3rd bolt in? It's the center bolt if that matters.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do you know a GOOD welder that could 'tack' that nut in place?
LG

 

[venom]

Unfortunately, no. I'm sure I could pay someone, I have some other welding stuff I'll need done before all is said and done. That said, if there's an alternative to get it done sooner rather than later, feel free to share :-)

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I tack welded mine.......
LG

 

[venom]

Okay, another stupid question. Is there an easy way to get the nut back to where it needs to be? I was looking, and I can't seem to get it moved back into place. I actually have a welder, and can put down a tack, so I was going to see what I could do. Maybe I should sleep on it.

 

[Torxhead]

Another way to hold fasteners in place is with a safety wire by drilling a hole in the fastener and having another location to tie it to. This is quite common in the aircraft industry. https://www.bing.com/images/search?...wire&qpvt=holding+bolts+down+with+safety+wire

 

[venom]

Maybe I'm being confusing. I believe that there's a nut welded inside the frame where the skid plate bolts to. It broke free, and I don't believe there's any access to get it back into place without cutting the frame, which is something I don't want to do

I'll double check that later this morning, and snap a picture. I could definitely safety wire it, but it wouldn't actually secure the bolt to the frame.

Would getting a larger bolt and tapping the frame be an option?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

A coat hanger and a magnet works well here.
Go 'fish'n' through the hole where the nut came from.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

try something like this:

https://www.jhpfasteners.com/blind_nuts.html

Also you don't need to weld the nut like its a battle ship fastener. If you are careful a hole can be drilled next to the nut in question. Thread a bolt in the nut to hold nut in place. Carefully reach in the hold and weld the nut in place while filling the hole on the way out. You likely will need to run a tap through the nut to clean up the threads, the nut will likely shrink some. For something similar, I've drilled out the existing hole to accept a nut and weld the nut permanently in the frame, grind it smooth, use your tap to clean the threads up and you will be in business.

 

[venom]

A coat hanger and a magnet works well here.
Go 'fish'n' through the hole where the nut came from.
LG

That's going to be fun I'm a terrible fisherman, but I'm going to give it my best shot.

try something like this:

https://www.jhpfasteners.com/blind_nuts.html

Also you don't need to weld the nut like its a battle ship fastener. If you are careful a hole can be drilled next to the nut in question. Thread a bolt in the nut to hold nut in place. Carefully reach in the hold and weld the nut in place while filling the hole on the way out. You likely will need to run a tap through the nut to clean up the threads, the nut will likely shrink some. For something similar, I've drilled out the existing hole to accept a nut and weld the nut permanently in the frame, grind it smooth, use your tap to clean the threads up and you will be in business.

I like the looks of that blind nut, based on how easy it sounds. If I can't get it in place and welded, that's what I'll go with.

I never thought about enlarging the hole and putting a nut in it and welding it flush. I'm pretty sure I have the skills to do that. Sometimes it's the simple solutions that I just ignore.

Today I'm in and out running a chainsaw in the pasture, so I doubt I'll get to it, but it's on the list. Once again, thank you all, you rock!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

try something like this:

https://www.jhpfasteners.com/blind_nuts.html

Also you don't need to weld the nut like its a battle ship fastener. If you are careful a hole can be drilled next to the nut in question. Thread a bolt in the nut to hold nut in place. Carefully reach in the hold and weld the nut in place while filling the hole on the way out. You likely will need to run a tap through the nut to clean up the threads, the nut will likely shrink some. For something similar, I've drilled out the existing hole to accept a nut and weld the nut permanently in the frame, grind it smooth, use your tap to clean the threads up and you will be in business.

HH-Pretty sure you won't find an insert for a 7/16" dia bolt. If you did, It would take a hydraulic tool, to do the insert setting.
What HH sez about the how-to on the welding is 'spot'(pun intended)on.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Lumpy - Back when I swapped in a 231 V6 and Ford T-18 in my '80 CJ5 I had the exact same thing happen to me. After a long search I found a blind hole nut similar to what the factory used. The tool was expensive so I bought some nuts and tried to figure a "work around" solution. Honestly I can't remember how it all turned out. I didn't have a welder at the time. Every now and then I still run across one of those nuts in the garage.