Well Getting a 304...

[poppatello]

Cool thanks!!!

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Thank you, thank you.

Now, I'm guessing you mean a compression check with air and in the spark plug hole? If so how much air do I give it? My compressor will put out 175 psi.
I'm also guessing I will need to reinstall the head also.

How do I go about turning this beast over by hand???

If the heads are off you can just look into the cylinders and check for deep gouges or cracks. If the heads are still on you can buy or rent a compression checker. It has a fitting that screws in tithe spark plug hole and you normally crank the motor over to see how much pressure it builds. Since you have no Transmission and starter attached to it you will need to place a bolt on the crank snout and use a ratchet to turn it over. You will need to turn it clock wise. From your previous postings I'm going to assume its missing the harmonic balancer bolt. The head of the bolt if I remember right is 3/4" and the diameter is 5/8 fine thread pattern. I'm not 100% about the size but that's what comes to mind. You will not build a lot of pressure turning it by hand but if all the cylinders go to the same pressure you should be good. When cranked by the starter you can build well over 100 psi. By hand most of the time you end up with about 50-60. If 7 of the 8 are 50 and one is 15.. You got a cracked block. I'd 2 cylinders next to each other have low numbers you have either cracked block or bad head gasket between 2 cylinders.

 

[JR74CJ5]

IF YOU GO WITH HEI:

That gear you see on the outside of the cam shaft (distributor drive gear) either check and ensure it is either soft or hardened metal, and get a distributor gear to match. (material type)

I just chewed mine with the DUI "HEI" type distributor I bought.

There are a few places that sell matched sets if you just want to be sure.

From $40.00 - $120.00 depending on where you buy them from and which ones.


Great find / buy!


~ JR

 

[jasonmark1993]

Timing chain slack is fine.

That goop you came up with was out of the EGR port. That is pretty normal.

I would buy an aluminum 4bl intake and whatever carb you want. Im a holley guy myself. For a good mix between performance/driveability/off road use a simple 600cfm vacuum secondary would be a good choice.

If that thing were mine, after confirming that it turns over and makes oil pressure, I would just run it.

I'd bet 100 bucks it'll turn over fine.

I say oil pressure because I hate doing pan gaskets and you have the engine on a stand.

This will also lube the bearings before you try and turn it over.

Just reinstall the pan without worrying about a gasket. Same thing for valve covers. Just expect a little oil to come out. You'll need an electric drill with a quarter drive extension and probably a 5/16 socket. With this, reach down into the hole where the distributor goes. You'll see a shaft in there. Thats the oil pump shaft. Pretty sure the dizzy turns clockwise but someone else can confirm that; I'm not an AMC guru.

If this were mine, Id throw a manual oil pressure gauge on it. But I'd feel comfortable just seeing oil come up to the valve train.

I've got a complete AMC 304 with all the accessories here. I'll try and sell it complete but if you want to make a bulk purchase of the misc. parts I'll just sell the longblock like yours came.

I think you made a good purchase.

 

[derf]

Timing chain slack is fine.

That goop you came up with was out of the EGR port. That is pretty normal.

I would buy an aluminum 4bl intake and whatever carb you want. Im a holley guy myself. For a good mix between performance/driveability/off road use a simple 600cfm vacuum secondary would be a good choice.

If that thing were mine, after confirming that it turns over and makes oil pressure, I would just run it.

I'd bet 100 bucks it'll turn over fine.

I say oil pressure because I hate doing pan gaskets and you have the engine on a stand.

This will also lube the bearings before you try and turn it over.

Just reinstall the pan without worrying about a gasket. Same thing for valve covers. Just expect a little oil to come out. You'll need an electric drill with a quarter drive extension and probably a 5/16 socket. With this, reach down into the hole where the distributor goes. You'll see a shaft in there. Thats the oil pump shaft. Pretty sure the dizzy turns clockwise but someone else can confirm that; I'm not an AMC guru.

If this were mine, Id throw a manual oil pressure gauge on it. But I'd feel comfortable just seeing oil come up to the valve train.

I've got a complete AMC 304 with all the accessories here. I'll try and sell it complete but if you want to make a bulk purchase of the misc. parts I'll just sell the longblock like yours came.

I think you made a good purchase.

As far as carburetors go, the factory stock 2bbl is hard to beat on a AMC 304 . If it were me, I'd consider keeping it even though the manifold is a boat anchor.

If you're going to swap to a 4bbl, there's a couple things to consider. A run-of-the-mill Edelbrock or Holley will work on the street but really choke off road. Holley makes a good off road specific carb they call the Truck Avenger. A lot of guys have luck running the 470 CFM unit on a small V8 like the AMC 304 . The only other option in that carb is a 670 or 770
CFM and those are way more than the AMC 304 needs. Edelbrock also makes an off road carb but I don't know of anyone who has one or has used it so I can't comment on how good it is.

To drive the oil pump with a drill, a socket won't cut it. It has a notch in the end of a round shaft and it needs a special tool to drive it. You can get a good one here: Bulltear-Online

But yes, it does spin clockwise.

 

[coldair]

Here is what i was talking about if its drooping or melted off the motor has been VERY hot!

 

[poppatello]

If the heads are off you can just look into the cylinders and check for deep gouges or cracks. If the heads are still on you can buy or rent a compression checker. It has a fitting that screws in tithe spark plug hole and you normally crank the motor over to see how much pressure it builds. Since you have no Transmission and starter attached to it you will need to place a bolt on the crank snout and use a ratchet to turn it over. You will need to turn it clock wise. From your previous postings I'm going to assume its missing the harmonic balancer bolt. The head of the bolt if I remember right is 3/4" and the diameter is 5/8 fine thread pattern. I'm not 100% about the size but that's what comes to mind. You will not build a lot of pressure turning it by hand but if all the cylinders go to the same pressure you should be good. When cranked by the starter you can build well over 100 psi. By hand most of the time you end up with about 50-60. If 7 of the 8 are 50 and one is 15.. You got a cracked block. I'd 2 cylinders next to each other have low numbers you have either cracked block or bad head gasket between 2 cylinders.

No I didn't nor will I attempt to pull the heads. I just don't feel comfortable in doing that. However, I will check into the pressure test idea.

IF YOU GO WITH HEI:

That gear you see on the outside of the cam shaft (distributor drive gear) either check and ensure it is either soft or hardened metal, and get a distributor gear to match. (material type)

I just chewed mine with the DUI "HEI" type distributor I bought.

There are a few places that sell matched sets if you just want to be sure.

From $40.00 - $120.00 depending on where you buy them from and which ones.


Great find / buy!


~ JR

Thank you JR, I don't know to much about distributors just yet and not sure which one I want. I know I want one that is dependable and will give me the best bang for the buck. I'm not looking for track racing power. Just low end torque and good HWY manners. I do like ur idea of changing the gear out with the distributor.

Timing chain slack is fine.

That goop you came up with was out of the EGR port. That is pretty normal.

I would buy an aluminum 4bl intake and whatever carb you want. Im a holley guy myself. For a good mix between performance/driveability/off road use a simple 600cfm vacuum secondary would be a good choice.

If that thing were mine, after confirming that it turns over and makes oil pressure, I would just run it.

I'd bet 100 bucks it'll turn over fine.

I say oil pressure because I hate doing pan gaskets and you have the engine on a stand.

This will also lube the bearings before you try and turn it over.

Just reinstall the pan without worrying about a gasket. Same thing for valve covers. Just expect a little oil to come out. You'll need an electric drill with a quarter drive extension and probably a 5/16 socket. With this, reach down into the hole where the distributor goes. You'll see a shaft in there. Thats the oil pump shaft. Pretty sure the dizzy turns clockwise but someone else can confirm that; I'm not an AMC guru.

If this were mine, Id throw a manual oil pressure gauge on it. But I'd feel comfortable just seeing oil come up to the valve train.

I've got a complete AMC 304 with all the accessories here. I'll try and sell it complete but if you want to make a bulk purchase of the misc. parts I'll just sell the longblock like yours came.

I think you made a good purchase.

What is your experience with the Holley? I mean I don't care to much about the original intake on the motor but I know chopping some weight is a good thing. I don't want to kill low end torque or an top end power though and want something good off road.

I also think the motor is good. I'm not really sure where the distributor goes on this thing. I'm guessing the timing chain cover which I do not have.

As for your bulk purchase thank you but I plan to install new mechanical parts such as fuel pump, water pump, distributor ect. I mean motor is out and easiest to install new now then replace used later. I am however in need of a timing cover, exhaust manifolds for a CJ7 , and dip stick. I know a few others on here have stated they have stuff laying around as well.

As far as carburetors go, the factory stock 2bbl is hard to beat on a AMC 304 . If it were me, I'd consider keeping it even though the manifold is a boat anchor.

If you're going to swap to a 4bbl, there's a couple things to consider. A run-of-the-mill Edelbrock or Holley will work on the street but really choke off road. Holley makes a good off road specific carb they call the Truck Avenger. A lot of guys have luck running the 470 CFM unit on a small V8 like the AMC 304 . The only other option in that carb is a 670 or 770
CFM and those are way more than the AMC 304 needs. Edelbrock also makes an off road carb but I don't know of anyone who has one or has used it so I can't comment on how good it is.

To drive the oil pump with a drill, a socket won't cut it. It has a notch in the end of a round shaft and it needs a special tool to drive it. You can get a good one here: Bulltear-Online

But yes, it does spin clockwise.

Here is what i was talking about if its drooping or melted off the motor has been VERY hot!

Thank you. I have heard good things about the motorcarft carb. If it's truly a good and true reliable carb I don't see why changing it out. But the weight of the stock intake is bothering me. I'll keep my mind open on this item for now. Thanks again for your input.



Coldair, I don't recall seeing anything like that on any freeze plugs on the engine. I looked last night and this morning but briefly both times.
I will take a better look @ the engine the next few days. Thanks again...

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Since my last offer to set you up with the brackets for the accessories I have sold my block so I have the extra water pump, stock distributor, harmonic balancer and hopefully bolt, timing chain cover, the extra brackets oil pump plate and gears... Pretty much any thing you will need to finish that thing off. Ill be in the shop today so I can take a pic of the way the 360 goes together and make a list of what parts you will need to get it back together.

For ignition nothing is simpler IMHO then a HEI. Since you dont have your stock gear to swap into a new HEI and the timing cover is off I would go with the recommendation to buy a matched set. The bull tear parts are on the pricier side but seem to be the best quality out there.

The HEI is in theory a one wire system but it should be run off a relay to get the most juice to it. Dont let the relay scare you.. they are very easy to wire one you understand them and are very good tools to help ease the load on the weak electrical system of the CJ. Ill try to find the junk yard genius write up on how to power a winch with out the high amp alternator. you are better off adding a second battery then installing the alternator.
How many people do you plan on riding with? do you have inspections in your state?

Since it seems like you are going to get a new intake and carb you may want to look at Propane Conversion Kits for a few hundred dollars you could go with one of their systems and not have to worry about adjusting the carb or on/offroad performance.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Heres some pics of the parts I have.. Ill Pm you with a price for it all.

balancer pulley and water pump pulley


Coil bracket


Timing chain cover, oil pump plate, gears and distributor hold down


Stock Distributor


York A/C brackets


Alternator brackets


Power steering pump brackets. Im not trying to sell you the pump (unless you want it) I just didnt get a chance to pull the other bracket off of it.

This is actually my bracket Im keeping but I found the other one to send to you. Its just not painted.


I couldnt find the harmonic balancer but Im sure its out in my horrible mess of a garage.

 

[poppatello]

Thanks Jimbo! I'll keep an eye out for your PM...

 

[jasonmark1993]

Cant say that I wheeled much with a holley; no extreme angles or anything.

But whenever I buy a new carb, its a holley.

Maybe buy a aluminum 2bl intake and run the carb you have?

My AMC 304 ran great with the factory 2bl but I could def. tell it chokes it out in the upper rpms.

Really just depends on your goals.

 

[poppatello]

Since my last offer to set you up with the brackets for the accessories I have sold my block so I have the extra water pump, stock distributor, harmonic balancer and hopefully bolt, timing chain cover, the extra brackets oil pump plate and gears... Pretty much any thing you will need to finish that thing off. Ill be in the shop today so I can take a pic of the way the 360 goes together and make a list of what parts you will need to get it back together.

For ignition nothing is simpler IMHO then a HEI. Since you dont have your stock gear to swap into a new HEI and the timing cover is off I would go with the recommendation to buy a matched set. The bull tear parts are on the pricier side but seem to be the best quality out there.

The HEI is in theory a one wire system but it should be run off a relay to get the most juice to it. Dont let the relay scare you.. they are very easy to wire one you understand them and are very good tools to help ease the load on the weak electrical system of the CJ. Ill try to find the junk yard genius write up on how to power a winch with out the high amp alternator. you are better off adding a second battery then installing the alternator.
How many people do you plan on riding with? do you have inspections in your state?

Since it seems like you are going to get a new intake and carb you may want to look at Propane Conversion Kits for a few hundred dollars you could go with one of their systems and not have to worry about adjusting the carb or on/offroad performance.

Holly ! Did you check out those videos on that propane conversion? Man that thing is bad *** and I plan to do the duel fuel mod @ a later date.

Cant say that I wheeled much with a holley; no extreme angles or anything.

But whenever I buy a new carb, its a holley.

Maybe buy a aluminum 2bl intake and run the carb you have?

My AMC 304 ran great with the factory 2bl but I could def. tell it chokes it out in the upper rpms.

Really just depends on your goals.

Well main goal is to not choke on incline or downgrades on the side of a mountain, hill or mud hole with the wife and babies in tow. Now is the time I want to make changes if it benefits the motor. If the OEM intake and carb (Looks like I have a Motorcraft 2150) will do the trick then that's fine. If I need to look harder @ the intake or even a carb then that is what I need to do.

I'm so tired of everyone waiting for me on the trails after my 4 banger stalls because the motor chokes out. I am running a 2 bbl 36 DGB weber. This is one main reason I was thinking of going to a diesel but that is proving hard to find as a needle in a haystack...

 

[coldair]

Howells fuel injection or propane will fix your stalling out/flooding problem.

 

[JR74CJ5]

My AMC 304 has the motorcraft 2100 (pretty sim to 2150)

Even without the two known and popular mods (the spring on the float rod (anti-bounce-spring) and aux bowl filler) the thing does great while up, down or sideways. One of the easiest carbs to build (I just took mine apart, cleaned it, and reassembled it on the side of the road in the snow with a flat screw driver and 1/2" wrench in 15 min a couple weekends ago. )

It's also one of the easiest carbs I have ever tuned.

I do not know much about the avenger or others mentioned, so I have nothing bad to say about them. I just know, at this point, I like the MC2100. If I had room to spare, I'd love to do propane conversion, but 1: No room for tank easily on my rig, 2: Hate idea that cant stick gallon of propane in the tank if runs out ( I have an old ford truck that runs on propane)



~ JR

 

[derf]

Cant say that I wheeled much with a holley; no extreme angles or anything.

But whenever I buy a new carb, its a holley.

Maybe buy a aluminum 2bl intake and run the carb you have?

My AMC 304 ran great with the factory 2bl but I could def. tell it chokes it out in the upper rpms.

Really just depends on your goals.

No one makes a 2bbl manifold for the AMC engines. Though you can get a 4bbl and then bolt on a 4bbl to 2bbl adapter. But that starts to get expensive for not much benefit. If you're going to swap to a 4bbl manifold, you may as well get a 4bbl carb.

I've wheeled with all sorts of people running all sorts of carbs. When it comes to aftermarket carbs, if you don't get an off road specific one your performance will suffer when you start getting into angles. And I can say from personal experience that the Holley Truck Avenger is as good off road as a carburetor can get. But it's not so much better than the factory Motorcraft 2100/2150 when it comes to handling angles. Another good carb I've seen off road is a factory Quadrajet on GM engines.

If I was swapping in a AMC 304 on a budget, I'd just keep the 2150 and live with the high RPM limitation. The 2150 has an altitude compensation circuit so you don't have to rejet the carb when you do major altitude changes. It handles angles off road really well and it gives more than adequate performance in low to mid RPMs. The only reason I'm getting rid of the 2150 on my truck is because I'm swapping in fuel injection.

 

[poppatello]

My AMC 304 has the motorcraft 2100 (pretty sim to 2150)

Even without the two known and popular mods (the spring on the float rod (anti-bounce-spring) and aux bowl filler) the thing does great while up, down or sideways. One of the easiest carbs to build (I just took mine apart, cleaned it, and reassembled it on the side of the road in the snow with a flat screw driver and 1/2" wrench in 15 min a couple weekends ago. )

It's also one of the easiest carbs I have ever tuned.

I do not know much about the avenger or others mentioned, so I have nothing bad to say about them. I just know, at this point, I like the MC2100. If I had room to spare, I'd love to do propane conversion, but 1: No room for tank easily on my rig, 2: Hate idea that cant stick gallon of propane in the tank if runs out ( I have an old ford truck that runs on propane)



~ JR

What are the mods that are done to the 2100/2150's? I'm thinking I'll just keep the current carb since everyone is saying great things about it. I am just trying to get as much power out of the AMC 304 as I can. Not to concerned about speed but just lots of power.

No one makes a 2bbl manifold for the AMC engines. Though you can get a 4bbl and then bolt on a 4bbl to 2bbl adapter. But that starts to get expensive for not much benefit. If you're going to swap to a 4bbl manifold, you may as well get a 4bbl carb.

I've wheeled with all sorts of people running all sorts of carbs. When it comes to aftermarket carbs, if you don't get an off road specific one your performance will suffer when you start getting into angles. And I can say from personal experience that the Holley Truck Avenger is as good off road as a carburetor can get. But it's not so much better than the factory Motorcraft 2100/2150 when it comes to handling angles. Another good carb I've seen off road is a factory Quadrajet on GM engines.

If I was swapping in a AMC 304 on a budget, I'd just keep the 2150 and live with the high RPM limitation. The 2150 has an altitude compensation circuit so you don't have to rejet the carb when you do major altitude changes. It handles angles off road really well and it gives more than adequate performance in low to mid RPMs. The only reason I'm getting rid of the 2150 on my truck is because I'm swapping in fuel injection.

Thanks, but what did you mean when you said "high RPM limitations"???

 

[JR74CJ5]

What are the mods that are done to the 2100/2150's? I'm thinking I'll just keep the current carb since everyone is saying great things about it. I am just trying to get as much power out of the AMC 304 as I can. Not to concerned about speed but just lots of power.

The mods are a anti-bounce spring on the float rod, and a aux bowl filler. keep in mind I have niether on mine, and it still does fine. The problem i have with stalling out at times has to do with the low crawl gearing limitations my rig has.

Thanks, but what did you mean when you said "high RPM limitations"???

Basically a 2 barrel carb wont give you the highest output at high RPM's. For wheeling and normal driving, this is not a problem. If you are trying to out run corvettes and Lambos then you might worry about it.

 

[jasonmark1993]

What are the mods that are done to the 2100/2150's? I'm thinking I'll just keep the current carb since everyone is saying great things about it. I am just trying to get as much power out of the AMC 304 as I can. Not to concerned about speed but just lots of power.




Thanks, but what did you mean when you said "high RPM limitations"???

It'll run just fine with the factory 2bl. Mine was what I would call excellent for off road performance. You just feel it flatten out after maybe 3500 rpm when the engine could use a little more air. It still makes plenty of power up there though.

 

[derf]

Thanks, but what did you mean when you said "high RPM limitations"???

Because of the limits on airflow through that carb you'll need to shift into a higher gear before you rev the engine high enough to float the valves.

Your usable power band will extend somewhere into the 4xxx RPM range. Above that, you won't have a lot of power. But unless you're racing or doing big mud running or something like that, it won't really matter.