Misc. what are the official names of these parts? please

[Rustkill]

hi, what are the names of these 2 parts, please? they are located on the driver's side in the rear up in the rear panel.

I should know but it's been a long time, since the last time I looked at them. I have been taking the jeep apart.

I will post in the build section what i am doing soon.

thank you for your help

 

[Manic Mechanic]

They are both part of the evap system for the fuel tank one is a charcoal canister the other I can't think of at the moment either. But I eliminated both of mine

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[CJ]

It looks like the anti-rollover valve and liquid check valve.

 

[TSB8C]

Those are the liquid check valve and the roll-over check valve. The charcoal canister is normally mounted on the firewall in the engine bay on the driver side under the bulkhead connector for the fuse box. Two hoses come from the fuel tank top driver side and connect to the liquid check valve bottom inlet ports. These are to allow fuel vapors from the tank to vent out but prevent liquid fuel from getting out. This is done by using a float mechanism inside the valve that would float up if liquid fuel enters the bottom two ports which would then block the top outlet. The liquid check valve then has an outlet port on top with a hose to connect to the rollover check valve. Then a line goes from that valve up front to the charcoal canister. The rollover check valve is to prevent liquid fuel from passing through in the event the vehicle rolls over on its side or upside down causing the float inside the liquid check valve to no longer float and block its outlet port. These are important safety devices as part of the evap system to prevent fuel spills in the event of a rollover or other accident. Would also help in extreme off camber situations while offroading. In addition, "topping off" the fuel tank could allow gasoline to exit the vent tubes and flood or saturate the charcoal canister if these were not in place, thus ruining the charcoal canister. These valve are physically mounted higher than the vent ports on the fuel tank to also help prevent liquid fuel from entering the evap system. Obviously you then have a line from the charcoal canister that goes to the carb to allow these captured fuel vapors to be burned in the engine. With an EFI system, that port on the charcoal canister should connect to a ported vacuum source on the engine to purge the tank of vapors when needed.



In my case, I moved my charcoal canister (and installed a different one due to my engine swap and EFI) to the rear wheel well where these valves are mounted. I also installed a new single valve assembly that does the job of both of these two original stock valves. These replacement valve has a "TEE" at the bottom to accept the two vent lines from tank and then a single outlet on top for the line to the charcoal canister. It also included a mounting clamp and I think a great choice for a new replacement, less space required (since my charcoal canister is now back there) and easy-peasy to install. Plus, getting replacements for the original two valves is quite difficult. This replacement is about $42 and readily available from numerous sources. It's an MTS part # JLCV-1.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

That works well. Like I said I completely eliminated the whole setup when I still had a carb as I don't have emissions where I am. Plus if I'm on my side or up side down a little fuel leaking is the least of my worries. As far as the nipples on the tank I just looped fuel line between the two.

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[Rustkill]

thank you, I have a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a TBI installed, I think I am going to switch to the Holly Sniper so I can put the original air cleaner back on.
I have the Jeep almost completely apart, took the body off Friday. I plan to restore and put it back together. I was going to post in the build section, but I see there are rules, and I do not think I am that detailed.

 

[CJ]

thank you, I have a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a TBI installed, I think I am going to switch to the Holly Sniper so I can put the original air cleaner back on.
I have the Jeep almost completely apart, took the body off Friday. I plan to restore and put it back together. I was going to post in the build section, but I see there are rules, and I do not think I am that detailed.

Just start a thread in the build forum, we will enjoy following your build...

 

[Belizean]

thank you, I have a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a TBI installed, I think I am going to switch to the Holly Sniper so I can put the original air cleaner back on.
I have the Jeep almost completely apart, took the body off Friday. I plan to restore and put it back together. I was going to post in the build section, but I see there are rules, and I do not think I am that detailed.

I went with the original air filter and Sniper also.

 

[TSB8C]

That works well. Like I said I completely eliminated the whole setup when I still had a carb as I don't have emissions where I am. Plus if I'm on my side or up side down a little fuel leaking is the least of my worries. As far as the nipples on the tank I just looped fuel line between the two.

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With the two vents on the tank just looped together (blocked off) then hopefully you have a vented gas cap.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

With the two vents on the tank just looped together (blocked off) then hopefully you have a vented gas cap.

Nope. Just opened it slowly sometimes there's a little his most times absolutely nothing.

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[Belizean]

Mine is all still there with new Fuel injection rated line. I sure hope I never need to find out that system works.

 

[KRUPP]

Rustkill,
Like CJ said, just start a Build Thread here and people will chime in. Believe me, the guys here are great and will help a ton, no matter what color of Jeep-kwando belt you have.

 

[NotTJ]

Nope. Just opened it slowly sometimes there's a little his most times absolutely nothing.

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You don't have any performance issues either? Unless your gas cap is allowing air in, which is what I assume, your tank is under vacuum. This would mean you get less fuel sent up front and carb bowl siphoning back to tank after shut off. Does your gas cap have a leaky gasket? Air is getting in there somehow but you would want to find out and fix and then go with a vented cap.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

You don't have any performance issues either? Unless your gas cap is allowing air in, which is what I assume, your tank is under vacuum. This would mean you get less fuel sent up front and carb bowl siphoning back to tank after shut off. Does your gas cap have a leaky gasket? Air is getting in there somehow but you would want to find out and fix and then go with a vented cap.

Never had an issue with the carb. I switched to EFI few years ago and I have even less issues. I replace the gas cap every so often just to ensure a tight seal as I don't want water in there.

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[Belizean]

I have a question. I have a Holley Sniper system with their in tank fuel pump. I go fill my tank up and put my original 40 year old cap on and go off driving. Sometimes it takes me a month or 2 to burn up that tank of fuel or on a road trip maybe a few hours. When I remove the gas cap there is a vary large sucking in sound from the cap with air getting sucked in. All my roll over stuff is there and I have a canister up on the driver front fender. Is that what is correct with that suctioning at the cap ? I have no fuel smell in my garage.

 

[TSB8C]

You should not have that sucking sound when you remove the cap. The system must be able to vent both ways (let air in and let fumes out). As the fuel expands with heat, expanding fumes should go through the rollover and liquid check valves, via the charcoal canister, to the engine to be burned. The gas cap should not allow these fumes to escape out into the atmosphere. But air also has to get in to replace the space in the tank as fuel is pumped out to avoid creating a vacuum. A one-way check valve in the gas cap is designed to allow for this air entry when the outside air pressure exceeds a certain threshold compared to the in-tank pressure (or vacuum) to allow fresh air into the tank to avoid a vapor lock type situation. If your EFI uses a return line to the fuel tank, this risk is lessened, but still exists. My EFI also has an in-tank pump, and uses a return line as part of the vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Belizean]

Thank for the response TSB8C. If I’m following you correctly I need a fuel cap with a 1 way check valve?

 

[TSB8C]

Correct. A Motorad part # 2200-05392009 for a black one, or a Gates part # 2200-09133130 would work if you want a chrome finish. If you want a locking one, a Crown part # 2203-03435821 would work.

 

[Belizean]

Thanks for those parts numbers. I do have a locking cap that’s pretty old now, and will try that for a few drivings and see how that goes. Then I will try one of yours. Thanks again

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Gates and motorad are basically identical here's the one I have (Amazon though)

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