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I have a 1986 CJ7 that currently has an I-6 in it. I am going to be doing a 5.3l LS swap and I am curious if there is an adapter plate or bell housing that I can use to adapt the auto Transmission that is currently in the Jeep to fit to the LS.
Great, thanks. Also is there a certain place you would recommend to order a kit for the conversion as far as wiring harness, engine mounts, headers, gauges, etc?
Great, thanks. Also is there a certain place you would recommend to order a kit for the conversion as far as wiring harness, engine mounts, headers, gauges, etc?
There MANY places to get most of this. Be careful on gauges...they're rumored to be better so long as EACH is grounded well. Speedhut is the high-end option that many go with...but they're expensive.
Other's can answer on wiring harness...Painless comes to mind but there are others and some here have good input on what is good/bad on each.
Headers will spark a religious discussion, but others can comment on best set if you choose to go that way.
I used an engine controller kit from Mast Performance. Truly awsome plug and play kit. As a bonus, it is capable of driving your original gauges with a simple calibration. As an additional bonus, rest assured you won’t regret the swap.
*Personally* I'm not sure a TF999 will stand up to an LS, but anything is possible.
Do you mean vehicle wiring harness or engine control wiring harness?
Not much to the vehicle wiring harness once the emissions is removed, it's often cheaper and more functional to build the basic light & HVAC harness yourself.
The engine management harness will be specific to the module you use,
Example, non-electronic engine Transmission (TF999 ), electrically controlled auto Transmission , same with manual Transmission ...
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Headers will spark a religious discussion, but others can comment on best set if you choose to go that way.
SO MANY with big ideas on headers & camshafts, so few ever been in a Dyno room, but speaking with absolute authority...
I've spent HUNDREDS of hours in a dyno room, and I can name at least 20 variables that would effect exactly same set of headers, but not one word about those...
More 'Belief/Religion' than scientific proof.
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I give the front U joints about the third full throttle jump...
I switched from I-6 to a mildly built 360 and the both front U joints lasted about a 1.5 miles from the trail head...
The first about AMC 150 yards when I bumped the throttle like I used to do the I-6, and the banging commenced,
Stopped, changed that quick since I was set up for it,
The second was about 1.5 miles from the trail head when I had to climb on wet clay and get around a tree about 2/3 the way up the hillside...
Last spare 'U' joint and changing on the hillside wasn't fun, nothing to anchor the winch to on top, so leaned it against the tree and commenced to changing the second U joint in an hour...
That V-8 lead to an outboarded HD Dana 44 up front, and a Ford 9 inch out back...
Build, wheel, break, repeat... We all know how that works!
I went with a new harness from Swap Specialities. It has the plugs in place for upgrading to 4L60 or other electronic Transmission if I ever feel the need.
1979 Jeep CJ7 TH400 Automatic 258 I6 Quadratrac Amc 20 rear & Dana 30 front, 32 x 11.5 x 15 tires. Currently a Complete Custom Rebuild in progress.
Also I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, White, all stock with 4.0L. automatic, and police package. Best part of that is it came with leather seats! This package also has the NP242 Transfer Case, 8.25 rear end, and trailer towing package.
85 CJ-7, Cummins 4BT Diesel, ZF S 5-42 5 Speed, Rear axle Ford Sterling 8.8 discs & Detroit Locker 4.10's, Front GM camper special D44 Flat top X-over hi-steer ARB, 4.10's, AGR super box, LoMax D300 4:1 gearing (94:1 ratio 1st-Low-Low). CV drive shaft, Goodyear MT/R Kevlars, 15x8 street locks, SOA front/SUA Rear hybrid 5.5" lift, Ham & CB 2-way radio,
09' JKUR on 37's and way too much to list.......
Sorry, late to the party here. Without a doubt use a Hydramatic 4L60E or 4L65E (the heavy duty version) and don't consider anything else. The Vortec LM7 and others in the line all came FACTORY with this Transmission and the Transmission can also be tuned for refined operation in the vehicle if it is the E model which stands for electronically controlled. Same harness that controls the engine to control the Transmission . AA has the adapter for your Jeep Transfer Case . I prefer the Dana 300 myself.
This is what I ran for several years in my CJ, It was a match made in heaven. Stay away from the older technology and run what is up to date with your proposed engine swap. You won't regret it. I was sure glad I did!
is removed, it's often cheaper and more functional to build the basic light & HVAC harness yourself.
