Whistling

[Scout1067]

I have an odd whistling sound when I get up to operating temperature. At first I thought it was a vacuum leak but I inspected and tested all my vacuum lines and they are good and I am not losing vacuum that I can tell.
I popped the hood and listened this afternoon and the noise is coming from the front of the engine. It almost sounds like it is the water pump. Is it possible that a failing water pump will make a whistling sound? I have not had any problem with overheating. I have the mechanical pump on a straight six.
Last question, I looked at new pumps online and they all ask rotation direction. Is clockwise or counterclockwise determined looking at the front or as I am sitting in the driver's seat?

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[cglax6]

Standard rotation would be clockwise as you're looking at the front of the engine from in front of the vehicle. Reverse rotation would be counter-clockwise as you're looking at the front of the engine.

In general, reverse rotation water pumps have serpentine belt setups. Standard rotation turns the same direction as the crank.

Not sure how to explain your whistling sound, though. Are the belts sitting correctly on the pulleys? Did you put soapy bubbly water everywhere you could have a vacuum leak and look for bubbles disappearing? Does the sound change with engine rpm?

I think the only way to explain a whistling from the water pump itself would be if the shaft is worn, or the impeller is rubbing on the backing plate. And that's just a stab.

You could just change out the water pump and see what happens, but with the lead time you have for parts, and the PITA that it is to change a water pump, you may want to give us more info before you drop coin and time on a water pump. It's not a hard job, just a pain draining coolant, getting the bolts out without shearing one (or more), etc.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

What does a vacuum gauge show?
Check ALL of your manifold bolts/nuts.
Check the 2 bolts where the exhaust pipe bolts to the manifold.
LG

 

[Scout1067]

I figured it out. The whistling was coming from my PCV, it was clogged. Apparently I have moisture in the head and don't generally drive it long enough to heat up and burn the moisture out. My commute is only about 20 minutes and it is pretty snowy and wet here in the winter.

I cleaned my PCV out yesterday and tada, no whistling.

 

[jp360cj]

Glad you got it figured out and it was a simple fix!

 

[Scout1067]

Glad you got it figured out and it was a simple fix!

You and me both. I was starting to think that every repair on a CJ cost a minimum of a half month's pay. LOL

 

[mriplaybass]

You and me both. I was starting to think that every repair on a CJ cost a minimum of a half month's pay. LOL

J Just
E Empty
E Every
P Pocket

 

[Scout1067]

Update, apparently it was NOT the PCV. The whistling started back up again yesterday. The wife and I used the Jeep to pull a trailer to pick up some furniture for the soon to be arriving first grandkid's room. It was about a 100 mile roundtrip and the whistling started about 20 miles in long after reaching operating temperature.
I am starting to think the whistling has something to do with weather as it only really does it when it is cold and wet.
My guess is that one of the vacuum lines contracts from the cold and doesn't catch up when the engine warms up. This bears some more troubleshooting. My only issue is time, HH6 is keeping me pretty busy when I am not at work.[emoji20]

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[Lumpy Grits]

You need to install a vacuum gauge to monitor this.
Time to ck all the manifold and carb bolts again.
LG

 

[Scout1067]

You need to install a vacuum gauge to monitor this.
Time to ck all the manifold and carb bolts again.
LG

Yeah, I am going to try to get to that this week, weather and time dependent. It is in the exhaust shop today getting a new exhaust from the manifold back installed.

 

[mtnwhlr]

You may just need to teach it Dixie.

 

[Belizean]

You may just need to teach it Dixie.

I knew you have a rebel flag hanging in your garage.

 

[Scout1067]

Since it only whistles after it warms up I have had a hard time isolating where it's coming from. I also haven't had a chance to get a vacuum gauge on it, that probably won't happen until Monday as this weekend I am changing out the tie rods and ball joints.
I did manage to figure out roughly where the noise is coming from this morning though. There are two lines coming off the manifold forward of the carb and I think it's one those. Unfortunately I don't know what the lines are for. I think the noise is coming one the lines going into block I circled in red.

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[Lumpy Grits]

See if this link helps.......
Tom 'Oljeep' Collins FSJ Vacuum Layout Page

LG

 

[Scout1067]

See if this link helps.......
Tom 'Oljeep' Collins FSJ Vacuum Layout Page

LG

Looking at those diagrams it seems like the part I had a question about is the EGR and EGR thermal vacuum switch. Does that seem about right?

Just thought of something else as well. None of my vacuum lines are clamped on to the various nipples. That makes it seem possible that one or more are letting air into the system and thus the whistling when the CTO kicks in at operating temp. Of course it could just be a bad EGR valve as well.

 

[Posi]

Your looking at a FSJ V8 vacuum diagram, its close, but somewhat different
Do you have a thermo vacuum switch in the system?
If so its not hooked up properly
It has to go between EGR and CTO switch
You could use zip ties to fasten the vacuum lines.
You need a vacuum pump to test the lines
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Flui...-Pump-Tester-Kit-Adapters-w-Box-/202507494011
Check each end of your vacuum lines with the pump and your finger covering the other end.
No leaks, the needle will hold steady.
Hook the pump directly to the EGR, does it hold vacuum?
Before you buy the vacuum pump start your engine, while its running push up on the EGR diaphragm (sticker your finger up under the EGR and push up).
Does the engine stall? If so its working, if it doesn't you need a new EGR valve.

 

[mtnwhlr]

start your engine, while its running push up on the EGR diaphragm (sticker your finger up under the EGR and push up).
Does the engine stall? If so its working, if it doesn't you need a new EGR valve.

This is a great tip, thanks for sharing.

 

[Scout1067]

I did the finger check and it's not the EGR. Looks like I will have the chance Monday to check the vacuum lines. I even found the vacuum diagram for my Jeep on olJeep Collins' page in the FSM for my year.

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[Scout1067]

OK, at this point I have replace all my vacuum lines, the EGR, installed the correct PCV, and the CTO. I even have all the lines routed where they are supposed to go according to the FSM vacuum diagram. There was some pretty gnarly PO stuff in the vacuum system, as in 3/4 of the vacuum lines were just not there and the ports where the lines were supposed to be were just plugged. I am still waiting on my new fuel canister to get here but that will get installed when I get it. The only line he had going into the fuel canister was the vent line from the fuel tank. After all that, it is still whistling.

I did some serious Google research Saturday trying to figure this out and the only conclusion I can come to is that the adapter gaskets from carb to manifold are leaking. That is where the whistling is coming from, I tried the hose and dowel tests to try and localize where the noise was coming from. I went and got some gasket paper, fairly thick, and I plan on pulling the carb and redoing to gaskets this week.

My question is, does it seem like a reasonable assumption given all I have done thus far that the only logical source of the leak is a bad adapter gasket? It looks like the PO used RTV as a sealant and all my research says either use no sealant on carb gaskets or a couple of places I saw where they recommend using Vaseline because it is petroleum based and wont degrade from contact with gas. I am still looking at what a PITA it will be to pull the carb to replace the gaskets but it looks like it is only job of a couple hours.

 

[Posi]

Easy enough to test and confirm.
You can use a propane torch
Start engine, turn on torch but don’t light
Run the torch tip across the gasket, if the idle changes you found your leak.
If you have a mechanical fan use a piece of cardboard as a wind shield.
You can spray oil or water and get the same results.
I would use just the gasket and torque to specs.