wiper issue, help please!!!

[gr8dain]

Yep. Took all but the wiper motor from a YJ being parted. So i made the holes for the pivots bigger and used the black wiper arms as well. Allows for an easier selection of blades at the parts store as well. The arms I have use the wiper blades that have a hole so the pin on the arms will go through. So as long as the universal blades have the hole, all is good. One if my best mods.


Dain

 

[gr8dain]

i havent had any issues woth my crown kit yet..so were you able to use YJ arms for better blades? cause im sick of the old metal blade that last a month or so the streak

By the way, the problem I had with the crown linkage was the long link would bend. And the driver side pivot had the little tab connected but not welded so it would slide on the post causing the wiper arm to move toward the front bumper and away from the windshield. Blade would come off the glass. No good.


Dain

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Has anyone tried to truss the windshield frame to eliminate the flexing that causes the binding wipers? I may try this also because my windshield frame isn't in the best shape. Not the worst thought either.

I was also thinking that if I put a bump stop on the outside of the windshield frame that would keep the wiper arm from moving to far and binding.

Thoughts?

I am going to try the YJ pivots and linkages i think.

 

[gr8dain]

Has anyone tried to truss the windshield frame to eliminate the flexing that causes the binding wipers? I may try this also because my windshield frame isn't in the best shape. Not the worst thought either.



I was also thinking that if I put a bump stop on the outside of the windshield frame that would keep the wiper arm from moving to far and binding.



Thoughts?



I am going to try the YJ pivots and linkages i think.

I don't see how the bump stop would help. I must be missing it. I can see the option of stiffing up the frame.

Honestly, I have been happy with the YJ set up for years. Even on the fiberglass frame.

 

[BusaDave9]

Has anyone tried to truss the windshield frame to eliminate the flexing that causes the binding wipers? I may try this also because my windshield frame isn't in the best shape. Not the worst thought either.

I was also thinking that if I put a bump stop on the outside of the windshield frame that would keep the wiper arm from moving to far and binding.

Thoughts?

I am going to try the YJ pivots and linkages i think.

I had to bend the windshield back with a threaded rod as I described in post 11. Once I did that I have never had a problem. Don't use a bump stop. If the windshield is bent then the wiper will band into the bump stop causing more stress.

 

[hagar]

Chrysler had a fix for this under warranty.
They made a YJ reinforcement piece that went all the way across the windshield frame that you attached to the inside of the frame. It reinforced the frame and the areas around the pivot holes. It was supposed to eliminate the "oil can effect" of the frame flexing after you bend it back into shape.
Many windshield frames were replaced because the pivots went overcenter and damaged the pivot holes.
FYI

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Chrysler had a fix for this under warranty.
They made a YJ reinforcement piece that went all the way across the windshield frame that you attached to the inside of the frame. It reinforced the frame and the areas around the pivot holes. It was supposed to eliminate the "oil can effect" of the frame flexing after you bend it back into shape.
Many windshield frames were replaced because the pivots went overcenter and damaged the pivot holes.
FYI

I have a 73 CJ5 so basically everything I do requires custom fabrication.

I did however find out that my driver's side pivot has worn down the "keyway" so it moves in the frame. I think this is causing my binding due to it rotating in the frame. I am going to try putting the passenger side pivot on the driver's side. I'll only have 1 wiper but that's all I have now and hopefully that fixes the binding. Then I will know what Steps to take from there. I still plan on the YJ pivots but one step at a time.

 

[BusaDave9]

Disconnect the motor. Do the pivots move freely? If so it may be the issue I had. If the tiny arm on one of the pivots gets horizontal it will bind.


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[gr8dain]

Disconnect the motor. Do the pivots move freely? If so it may be the issue I had. If the tiny arm on one of the pivots gets horizontal it will bind.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes it will. I raised my motor about 2 cm. That helped a lot. Keeps the little arm at an angle

 

[KeithMcKalister]

The PO welded nuts to the pivots to secure the linkages. I had to use my angle grinder to deal with that. The PO also cut the linkage between the motor and the pivot. They welded a bolt in the middle. Not sure why. Hmm

I took them apart and moved the passenger side over. I haven't field tested it yet because I need to secure the linkages. I'll spot weld then as a temp fix. Ultimate plans is YJ pivots. NBD.

I noticed that the linkage from the motor to the driver pivot hits the bottom of the windshield frame. I'll clearance that linkage.
I also noticed the linkage is level at one point with the pivot so I will move my motor up.

Where is a good place to get new YJ pivots? I saw a NOS that comes with the linkage on eBay for $90. What is the distance between the pivots on a YJ? I'm thinking I'll have to cut them down to length to fit my CJ, maybe not.

 

[gr8dain]

The distance is the same. The only mod needed is to widen the holes in the frame for the pivots. The circumference is larger on the YJ pivots. I did the swap to YJ linkage and it was plug and play other than enlarging the holes.

And I got my YJ linkage with wipers complete from a salvage YJ.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

The distance is the same. The only mod needed is to widen the holes in the frame for the pivots. The circumference is larger on the YJ pivots. I did the swap to YJ linkage and it was plug and play other than enlarging the holes.

And I got my YJ linkage with wipers complete from a salvage YJ.

FTR the distance is not the same. The Yj linkage is about 3" shorter then my 73' CJ linkage. I have to cut and lengthen the linkage to make it work.

The linkage distance between the motor and the driver's pivot is the same however.

I enlarged my pivot holes with a file and a drill bit. These pivots seem to be a nicer product. Looking forward to having reliable wipers.

 

[gr8dain]

Ah. Sorry. It was the same for my 84. I missed that we were talking about a 73.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Ah. Sorry. It was the same for my 84. I missed that we were talking about a 73.

Nbd. They are already an upgrade from the OEM. Now I need to find a pair of those darn pivot nuts. Apparently they are difficult to find.

Anyone know of the specs on them? I have a friend who owns a machine shop with some very nice equipment. I'm sure he could make me some with accurate specs. I could always bring the pivots to him.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

I am going to try Fastenal to see if they have a decent option for the pivot nut.

Is anyone interested in a nice high quality set of wiper pivot nuts made from aluminum. They'd be the last set you'll buy and never need to replace them unless you damaged them somehow. I am considering having some made if there is enough interest. I'm also wondering if they should be a two piece unit or a one piece like the factory. This of course is if I try to get them made.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Here is what I have found in my search: Fastenal does not have a nut that will work on the wiper pivot. They could drill out an existing nut and the tap it, however the employee told me that the treads are not standard so even that wouldn't be a perfect solution.

I decided to cast my own plastic nuts using the Aluminlite Mini Casting Kit. I picked the kit up at Hobby Lobby for $29.99.

Step 1: I then used the clay that comes with the kit and wrapped it around the wiper pivot to create a suitable thread form. I them poured the silicone rubber into the form to create a form for the inner threads of the nut.

I used a nut that I had lying around for the outer face of the form. I used a spray paint cap and placed the nut inside and poured the silicone rubber around the outer edge.

Note: The silicone rubber that comes in the mini kit is a single use so be sure you have all the forms ready. I made several forms of the pivot threads to be sure I had a suitable version that I can use to make my final pivot nut.

I can make a single pivot nut with about 2ml of the Casting resin. This kit should allow me to make a decent amount of pivot nuts.

You can also paint these nuts whatever color you want. Mine will be black.

The only downside to creating my own pivot nut is that I still have to use a washer and clearance it to fit over the keyway notches on the pivot.

Here are my pictures. I figure the plastic nuts will work because the threads are plastic and do not need to be ultra tight, simply snug.

I am going to make as many as I can from this kit so if someone wants them shoot me a PM and I could send them out to you. You pay shipping and a few bucks for my time.

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Here is how an unpainted pivot nut looks. I have found that using an R20 O ring from a HF kit works as a washer. I only need a thin o ring to offest the keyway.

The pic has the o ring installed too.

 

[Belizean]

Interesting!

 

[KeithMcKalister]

Finished and installed. 11" blades.