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Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7

Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7
Lumpy Grits said:
You may well want to add an engine block heater to the Jeep's list.
I have one-It's been very handy the few times I really need'd it.
LG
Click to expand...

I'm thinking about it now. I've had block heaters before and love them on cold mornings.

I got the truck started. Two bottles of heet in the tank and a couple hrs open hood to the sun did it. I'm running it now to get the heet through the whole system. Of course a can went in the jeep too.

How'd tou like the pics LG? I have a new project. I had the bolt half way out on the back shackle to frame mount and stopped. Well tried to get it to go back in and broke off the head bolt. Drilling it out now. I think I'm going to helicoil it back. New threads.
 
You're do'n good on the pictures for sure :notworthy:
When was the last time you changed the fuel filter on the truck??:confused:
A 100 watt light bulb lay'n on top of the engine, will put out some warmth to ease starting.
That S/B a 7/16" dia bolt that broke. Just drill and tap out to 1/2"x13thd. Make sure you use good tap/cutting oil(I like LPS, Tapmatic 'Gold')as the nut plate is HARD.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
You're do'n good on the pictures for sure :notworthy:
When was the last time you changed the fuel filter on the truck??:confused:
A 100 watt light bulb lay'n on top of the engine, will put out some warmth to ease starting.
That S/B a 7/16" dia bolt that broke. Just drill and tap out to 1/2"x13thd. Make sure you use good tap/cutting oil(I like LPS, Tapmatic 'Gold')as the nut plate is HARD.
LG
Click to expand...

Welp. I'm drillig that bolt, finally made it through. I decided to try and easyout it out. Didn't work and didn't want to risk breaking the easyout in the hole. Been there done that and it aint good. So, I took a punch and hammer and knocked what was left loose. Then tried pulling it the rest of the way out and it popped up into the bolt hole! The nut had broken loose. So now I have no nut to thread the new bolt into. I grab a new nut, my extendable magnet, put the nut on the magnet to get the nut over the hole and lightly thread the new bolt in. Worked. So that part is fixed.

Now I have to replace the master cylinder. I noticed it was wet on the front of the brake booster. Usually means the seal has been blown on the MC. I still had enough brakes to take it for a little drive down the street though. The clutch felt great. Brakes are what they are. The steering is spooky. It's the old linkage on it. But it feels loose. Hope it's not the steering gear. It felt kind of loose to begin with. But the master cylinder will be first and go from there.
 
Without a 'hard' anchor for that nut. It may well spin when you ck torque or go to remove the bolt.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Without a 'hard' anchor for that nut. It may well spin when you ck torque or go to remove the bolt.
LG
Click to expand...

It might. But for now, I'm happy it has a fastener in the hole. I don't know the torque specs for that bolt. When I did the steering box bracket, those three bolts were 45 ft lbs. I got me a genuine 1979 Jeep shop manual off fleabay last week. I'll look in there for a torque spec tomorrow and might try it.

Worse come to worse, I do have a wire feed welder in the garage. I might be able to sneak it in the elongated hole and spot weld the nut down.:chug:

I am also busy dodging freakin spiders! Yes, spiders! This dang Jeep is loaded with them. I killed 5 today just on the back end area. I swear one was a small black widow. I thought about just leaving it outside tonight and just freezing them to death, but I checked the antifreeze and it tested to -10. With my luck today I pulled it back inside. I think there will be a bug bomb set off in that sucker this week.
 
looks like a fun project, sure would hate to meet the business end of your "supervisor" lol Just something looks so right about a CJ with a 4" lift
 
gert said:
looks like a fun project, sure would hate to meet the business end of your "supervisor" lol Just something looks so right about a CJ with a 4" lift
Click to expand...

Oh he's a cupcake.

I really like the looks also. Just a lot of work getting there.
 
Well I got my tie rod flip kit inserts in the mail today. Was planning on doing that tomorrow, until tonight.

I decided to run the jeep up to get some gas. By the time I got back, felt like the clutch pedal faded some. When I pulled it in the garage, it grinds going into reverse and a little into other gears. I was told that some of those pressure plate prongs might get weak and bend. So I may be pulling this clutch back out and trying to figure out what had happened. I wouldn't think it would have happened this fast but I don't know for sure. I'm seriously thinking about taking it and having it done. I haven't decided yet.

On a brighter note, put a new master cylinder in today and the brakes are great!
 
How much freeplay do you have in the clutch pedal?
You want 1-1 1 /4 inch. No more-No less.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
How much freeplay do you have in the clutch pedal?
You want 1-1 1 /4 inch. No more-No less.
LG
Click to expand...

Started out right at 1 inch after the install. I haven't measured it again yet. It seems that the clutch is not disengaging with the grinding going into gear. I'll look at it closer tomorrow. It could be in the linkage. I plan on starting with the linkage first. I'll measure the free play and go from there.

Now that it's got the lift kit on, hopefully it'll make it a little easier to work on if it gets to that point.
 
OK. Took a real close look at the bell crank assembly today. Something looked off about it. The end that the clutch pedal rod goes to looked as if it was out of place. So I decided to just to take the BC completely out and inspect it real good. What I found was that the clutch pedal end was completely loose and wobbles around like it was on a ball pivot. Didn't seem right. The the big surprise was the clutch pedal rod that comes through the firewall was almost half way worn through! The top part that goes into the clutch pedal arm was worn also but not as bad. So got on the phone and ordered a new clutch linkage kit with all the parts needed. I think the whole linkage was giving me trouble with adjusting the clutch and I think the BC assembly just finally gave out resulting in the disengaging problem I had last night.

Here are some pics.....
 
Use the OEM part, that fits into the release fork's 'pocket'.
I made my own Heim-joint clutch kit some 20+ years ago. Still going strong today. :chug:
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Use the OEM part, that fits into the release fork's 'pocket'.
I made my own Heim-joint clutch kit some 20+ years ago. Still going strong today. :chug:
LG
Click to expand...

Got it. I could probably make my own also with a trip to the farm store. They have all the hardware. Not sure if it be cheaper though. I could just buy the ends and weld them onto the new clutch rod. Itcd be already pre-bent. Probably do the same on the rod from the bell crank to the fork.
 
OK. I got the tie rod flip done today. My welding skills have diminished but got the job done.

I didn't flip the pitman arm. I went with the stock location there to keep things lined up. We'll see if it makes a difference. I did flip the steering nuckle end of the drag link though.

The tolerances between the tie rod and drag link are close but around an inch at it's closest. I also had to move the steering stabilizer to the top of the tie rod, I figured as long as it is there and not in a bind it should be ok.
 
Here are some picks of the tie rod and drag link installed.

As you see in the pics, I used the old stock ubolts and clamp for one end of the steering stabilizer. The ubolts sent with the kit were to small for the new tie rod. I think I like the old ubolt design better. It has a flat portion that covers a little more clamping area than the round ubolts. I also like the bracket portion also as it fits the round tie rod better than the kit bracket. I just hope it holds up ok.

I tried several positions and the top slightly back side was the best position.

Now just waiting on the bell crank parts and clutch rod and hopefully, everything will be a go and I can get it somewhere to get the front end aligned.

The new tie rod and drag link made the front end feel pretty good and tight. We'll see what happens on the first drive. Hopefully I'll get the parts this week.
 
Oh, and I had something happen today I've never seen. I was trying to turn the steering to check clearances, engine not running, and the power steering reservoir puked. I heard this his and dripping and looked out to see power steering fluid gushing our from under the cap. What concerned me also was that it looked red. I've also never seen red power steering fluid. Looks just like tranny fluid. Pulled the cap off and that sucker is full.

I took this jeep several weeks ago to get the oil changed and they checked all the fluids. I'm wondering if they over filled the pump and used the wrong fluid.???

I may drain it and refill with fluid I know is PS fluid.
 
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