Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7

[Lumpy Grits]

My PS fluid is red.
LG

 

[jafo]

Four demerits for failing to paint the bracket.
https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/attachments/f98/21130d1482367608-1979-jeep-cj7-20161221_152005.jpg

LG

What color do you want it?

What is your opinion on the drag link placement? One on top one on bottom? Think that'll work ok? I can always pop the pitman arm off and drill her out. I have one more insert and nut.

 

[jafo]

My PS fluid is red.
LG

OK. I haven't had any weird noises and the steering was fine. It just seemed odd it puked like that. I've never seen red PS fluid before, been around automotive for a long time. It's always been clear to light yellow colored. But I'll go with it then.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Looks good so far. Get the front twisted up and CK for clearance.
LG

 

[jafo]

While your here LG. When I get to the point of modding the front and rear diffs, I'm looking at going with Detroit lockers also. These function like other posi track carriers? I really would rather stay away from air lockers and such. I'd rather just go with a posi carrier and the Detroit lockers looked good to me.

Whats your opinion on the Detroit lockers since you have them in your Jeep?

 

[jafo]

Looks good so far. Get the front twisted up and CK for clearance.
LG

I'll do it tomorrow.

 

[mdeluca]

I don't know anything, but I'm sure enjoying this thread. That's all I've got.

 

[tarry99]

Front end is in progress. Being held up by the steering linkage, but it'll get worked out soon.

With that dropped Pitman arm , you may have to do a Drag Link flip at your passengers side steering arm........IE put it on top rather than coming in from the bottom...........But I would first get that back on the ground with the weight on the tires and look at all the angles.

Likewise your shackle angle or lack of in the rear may also be an issue.......although the springs should relax some over time the shackle angle should be 20-30 degrees leaning away from the fixed end of the spring.


Sorry when I made the comment on the Pittman arm all of the pages had not yet loaded up.........the angles look pretty good but get the weight back on it.

 

[jafo]

With that dropped Pitman arm , you may have to do a Drag Link flip at your passengers side steering arm........IE put it on top rather than coming in from the bottom...........But I would first get that back on the ground with the weight on the tires and look at all the angles.

Likewise your shackle angle or lack of in the rear may also be an issue.......although the springs should relax some over time the shackle angle should be 20-30 degrees leaning away from the fixed end of the spring.


Sorry when I made the comment on the Pittman arm all of the pages had not yet loaded up.........the angles look pretty good but get the weight back on it.

I think the last two picks of the pitman arm is with weight on it. The drag link is slightly angled up to the pitman arm. The drag link at the passenger side steering arm is flipped to the top.

As far as the rear.shackle. I'll have to look at it. I noticed that the front shackles probably are not at there correct angles either. I notices the seem to be.making contact at the top with the front bumper. I notched the bumper out and they looked good with no weight on the front, but noticed they made contact after puting it on the ground.

As far as the rear.shackles. I don't see a way of adjusting them to any certain angle. If they are.not making contact with something like the front ones are. But I haven't looked real close to see if they are. I figured they are what they are, no adjustment. They are rear shackles, I double checked that before puting them on. Unless they put a pair of front shackles in a rear shackle box which is possible. How eould you adjust these? They are also 1/2" taller shackles too.

Thanks for the input. I want this right. I don't like surprises.

 

[jafo]

I don't know anything, but I'm sure enjoying this thread. That's all I've got.

Thanks! I think things arw finally leveling out. I had my doubts at times, like why in the heck did I start this. But it'll be worth it. Totally not my plan when looking for a Jeep when I started. I've done this resto thing before and wound up spending thousands after the drag racing bug bit me. Told myself next time, I'll buy something already done. Bwahahaha, yeh right. I could have but I figured, find a decent shell to start with and build what you want instead of what someone else wanted. So here I am.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

DL's have some bad manners that take a bit to get use to on the street. NOT a big deal.
That said-Where I live and 'wheel'. The Detroit locker in the front and rear was the best choice. They are the K.I.S.S. of locking diffs and work every time.
Lots of good diff info here. Let us know if you have any questions.....
https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/lockers-limited-slip-differentials-12434/


LG

 

[jafo]

DL's have some bad manners that take a bit to get use to on the street. NOT a big deal.
That said-Where I live and 'wheel'. The Detroit locker in the front and rear was the best choice. They are the K.I.S.S. of locking diffs and work every time.
Lots of good diff info here. Let us know if you have any questions.....
https://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f105/lockers-limited-slip-differentials-12434/


LG

Thanks. Watched the video in the other thread. If not for changing ring and pinion, that lunchbox locker looks real tempting. But that Eaton true trac sounds like the way to go. Operates very similar to the clutch type posi carrier without the added maintenance. I'd still consider the full detroit lockers also. It will more than likely come down to the budget like it always does.

Just curious as to why the detroit lockers fit your particular situation. Why you went that route. What would dictate the detroit locker say over the tru trac? Roads roads where you live? Say gravel/ dirt vs asphalt?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

DL's work every time, and are pretty much 'kill-proof'. They are 'old school' and still the best(IMO). I play in the rocks
Lunch box lockers are totally dependent of the carrier that was never built to take the stress the locker gives it.
I have installed many TT 'lockers'. They seem to work very well. Well made with good QC. They will not survive the abuse that a DL can take, because of the 'cammed-gear' design of the TT.
If you are looking for a clutch type LSD. I really like the old Power-Lock. In fact, If I lived in 'snow-country' I would be run'n PL, instead of DL. DL's on ice can be a handful because of their sudden and positive engagement.
I do not like ARB's at all. In fact, I will not install them any longer because of all the issues with leaking air seals.
When you change the carrier. Most times you have to reset the R&P.
LG

 

[jafo]

DL's work every time, and are pretty much 'kill-proof'. They are 'old school' and still the best(IMO). I play in the rocks
Lunch box lockers are totally dependent of the carrier that was never built to take the stress the locker gives it.
I have installed many TT 'lockers'. They seem to work very well. Well made with good QC. They will not survive the abuse that a DL can take, because of the 'cammed-gear' design of the TT.
If you are looking for a clutch type LSD. I really like the old Power-Lock. In fact, If I lived in 'snow-country' I would be run'n PL, instead of DL. DL's on ice can be a handful because of their sudden and positive engagement.
I do not like ARB's at all. In fact, I will not install them any longer because of all the issues with leaking air seals.
When you change the carrier. Most times you have to reset the R&P.
LG

Good info. Thanks.

 

[jafo]

Ok. Got my bellcrank kit today. I can identify where all the parts go but one. There is a single ballbearing in the kit. This has to be the pivot ball for the fork. I looked in the manual and the picture doesn't show this ball. I just want to make sure I'm not leaving a part out. Itcs going in tomorrow. Hopefully this will finally cure the clutch adhustment problems.

 

[Torxhead]

The clutch pivot ball, if that's what you have, goes between the clutch fork and in a pocket on the inside of the bell housing and it is held in with a spring. I think putting a bit of grease on the ball helps for assembly.

 

[jafo]

The clutch pivot ball, if that's what you have, goes between the clutch fork and in a pocket on the inside of the bell housing and it is held in with a spring. I think putting a bit of grease on the ball helps for assembly.

Right. I just want to make sure that this ball that came with the bellcrank kit was for the fork ball. It seemed odd to me they would include the fork pivot ball in a bellcrank kit. But I don't see any other use for it. It's not part of the bellcrank assembly so that has to be what it is for.

 

[jafo]

Well, got the bellcrank in yesterday. It's made by Crown. Also got a new fork boot too. Got my 1" free play and it works like it's supposed to. For some reason, the slight TOB noise is gone and the clutch engages a little higher up on the pedal travel. The old unti was just worn out.

Also got a carb kit in the carb, adjusted and timed the engine with some help with fellow jeepers. It's still a little cold natured but after about a minute it'll idle on it's own. Also found the ignition control module was wasted. 90% of the epoxy had melted out and down the inner fender. So that got replaced.

Went out for a drive this morning and it ran great. I still need a front end alignment to square it up on the road. No vibrations from the drive shafts, no death wobble. It will kind of dart just a hare to left or right, but I blame that on the alignment. Steering is not as tight as I'd like but it's better than it was before I started. Just need to get it to track right. The steering wheel is busy. That will have to be addressed with a different steering gear ratio down the road. Also need a parking brake assembly. Mine won't hold. Scares the heck out of me because it will engage then pops loose.

Next up when funds allow will be one piece axle kit, two new carriers and ring and pinions. I have to make up my mind of what carrier and gear ratio I want to go with.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Got to drive it! Way to go. Now go have some fun in it. You can buy more parts for it in the Spring when things warm up a bit. I can't wait to get to the day I can fire mine back up and drive it.

 

[jafo]

Got to drive it! Way to go. Now go have some fun in it. You can buy more parts for it in the Spring when things warm up a bit. I can't wait to get to the day I can fire mine back up and drive it.

Yeh. Took it across town yesterday. Did pretty well. It's like any new to you vehicle, you just have to get used to it's mannerisms. I did notice a few things. Yes it will need steeper gears going forward. This 3.54 ratio and the 33's make it interesting to get going from a stop. The freakin cheap aftermarket shift knob is going bye bye. Came loose again yesterday. Oone of the allen set screws fell out. Needs a front end alignment. Been thinking about doing it myself. Took the front bumper off last night. I have to deepen the notches on the bottom to make sure the front shackles have plenty of room. I need to take the steering wheel off and straighten it up also. Just little things. I wanr to find or biuld myself some mounting brackets for a couple LED lights I have too as well as build a mounting bracket for my high lift. Got a good idea on the brackets but location I'm still deciding on.