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Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7

Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7
Hey. I just took the new axles out of the box. One is shorter than the other. What gives?

Did you get this figured out? Are we talking an inch or less. Measure each side from the center of the pumpkin to the outer flange. The QuadraTrac axles are a big difference. You could possible have an AMC20 that is for a QuadraTrac and the PO switched it to a manual Transmission , but didn't change the rear end. Tape measure will tell.
 
Did you get this figured out? Are we talking an inch or less. Measure each side from the center of the pumpkin to the outer flange. The QuadraTrac axles are a big difference. You could possible have an AMC20 that is for a QuadraTrac and the PO switched it to a manual Transmission , but didn't change the rear end. Tape measure will tell.

Well, yes and no. There is 3" difference maybe between the axles. I went back and double checked the part number from Moser against the one they said is for a QuadraTrac . The one they sent me according to the part number on the box is not for a QuadraTrac . I don't think the previous owner changed it over either. This jeep does not have a QuadraTrac . So I guess we'll find out when the time comes to pull the axles. I might also give Moser a call before digging into it. Just to make sure this is the correct kit. They only offered two kits on their site.
 
Well, yes and no. There is 3" difference maybe between the axles. I went back and double checked the part number from Moser against the one they said is for a QuadraTrac . The one they sent me according to the part number on the box is not for a QuadraTrac . I don't think the previous owner changed it over either. This jeep does not have a QuadraTrac . So I guess we'll find out when the time comes to pull the axles. I might also give Moser a call before digging into it. Just to make sure this is the correct kit. They only offered two kits on their site.

Seems like when I installed my Moser axels years ago 1 axel was a few inches longer than the other side. Also 1 side had some shims also. Seems like the shims were on the drivers side.
 
Did the front shims today. Pretty easy. Back ones will be swapped for steel in the near future. Had a little problem though. While tightening the pin back down, I felt threads letting go. Heart skipped a beat there. Pulled the pin back out to find it pulled the thread guts out of the nut. Went and got some grade 8 nuts and all is good. Didn't hurt the pins threads at all. So I decided to exchange the other side with a new nut. I also put a jamb nut on the pin to back it up. It helped a little with the steering but it still needs to be tightened up just a little. I think I might take it back to get the alignment checked to make sure nothing is out of kilter after the new shim changed the caster.
 
Good progress - I'll be dealing with shims before everything is said and done. PO had one axle shimmed but not the other. I reassembled without em, and will start from scratch. Not looking forward to it.
 
Good progress - I'll be dealing with shims before everything is said and done. PO had one axle shimmed but not the other. I reassembled without em, and will start from scratch. Not looking forward to it.

I was really not wanting to dig into it, but once I got going it was pretty easy until the thread stripping deal. But, I'm glad it happened. I wouldn't want that leaf spring pin coming lose and doing who knows how much damage.

I went with Warrior products steel 2" wide shims in the front. I'll get the 2.5 inch wide ones for the rear. Both will be 6*. Even though the steel shims take a little more work to install, it's well worth it. Much stronger assembly than just sliding a aluminum shim in over the pin and tightening it down.
 
Been a while since I posted anything in here. Just been driving the CJ7 and enjoying the spring and summer weather.

Ok. I left off on the spring shims. Front to be exact. A few things have traspired since the last post. I swapped out the 2.5 deg. shims for 6. It's not exactly qhere I want it but I believe only a steering gear swap would get me there. I did adjust the steering gear slightly. It now drives really well. Good enough, I have forgotten at times it was loose as a goose.

So in the mean while, have been searching for a Transmission /transfer combo to swap in place of the T-150 and Dana 20 transfer. I have a line on two NP435xs out of '79 Broncos. The shifting thing has kind of held me off of the 435 for now. It's really always been my second option. I'm holding out for a T-18 . I also have casually been looking for a Dana 300 . There has been nothing locally for some time. Just no one parting any CJ's. Then I happened to do a parts search locally and found a good Dana 300 for $200! I couodn't believe it was still there. So I now have half of the drive trane swap. I also recently have found a T-18 semi local for $100. Year unknown, two wheel drive truck. So that is where I"m at right now. I still have my axle kit on the floor, a Dana 300 and soon T-18 . Just need to get the adapter kit from Novack and a couple rebuild kits and start building.
 
Been awhile again since my last update. I lost my phone to water so it died. I haven't been able to post pics cause this new phone doesn't take good pics but, I plan on takinh some in the very near future.

I have talked to some folks here and have settled on a drivetrane combo. I plan on an NP435 Transmission , mates to a Dana 300 . The Dana 300 will get the 4 low gears. This combo should get me in a very nice crawl ratio around 95. This is with the stock 3.54 gears in the diffs.

I also have replaced my E-brake pedal. The old one would randomly pop loose or off. Kind of dangerous. So got ahold of a good salvage pedal and it's in. Best $60 I've spent on the Jeep so far.

After the Transmission swap. Will probably swap out and get the one piece axles installed. It's been sitting on the garage floor for awhile. They need to go in.

Repacked the front wheel bearings, turned the rotors, put new brake skins on along with the rear brakes also with new brake cylinders. Brakes are good to go.

Need to look at some quick disconnect front swaybar links also.
 
Well, it finally puked. The heater core that is. It finally let go today pretty bad. Flooded the front floor board. So I got lucky and O'really's had ONE, just one heater core in town. Decided on the way over to go ahead and do the blower motor upgrade also. I combed some info and found an old post here on the modifications needed. So wound up with a '73 Blazer B motor that turned out to be the wrong one. I got the one with A/C. Turns out that the shaft is longer on that one than the stock CJ blower motor. So back up to O'really's and got both out and compaired them to my stock motor and went with the non A/C '73 Blazer B motor. The fan fit great.

Next was tackling the hole. I read in the earlier thread that the individual tried a 3 5/8 hole saw and couldn't get it to work. So I set out to figure this out because I wanted a clean stock looking round hole for the new motor. What I wound up doing, and it took me a bit to get it done , was a small piece of strap metal. I drilled a hole in the center, then eyeballed it center in the stock firewall hole and then marked the lowest mounting hole and the top passengerside mounting hole on the strap. Drilled those holes then mounted the strap across the motor hole in the firewall. Ot did two things. It flatened out the firewall, as mine had a slight wave in it, and it served as a holder for the hole saw. Worked great! Nice clean cut, had to clean the edging a little but the new motor slid right in. Got everything hooked up and bolted down with new heater core and the blower works awesome! Definitely worth the effort. We will see this winter how well the defrost works. But it really puts out the heat.
 
So, did you use the 3 5/8" or go to another size? I plan on doing this soon and have a 3 5/8" already. I'll b using the strap method of locating the pilot hole as well.

Well, it finally puked. The heater core that is. It finally let go today pretty bad. Flooded the front floor board. So I got lucky and O'really's had ONE, just one heater core in town. Decided on the way over to go ahead and do the blower motor upgrade also. I combed some info and found an old post here on the modifications needed. So wound up with a '73 Blazer B motor that turned out to be the wrong one. I got the one with A/C. Turns out that the shaft is longer on that one than the stock CJ blower motor. So back up to O'really's and got both out and compaired them to my stock motor and went with the non A/C '73 Blazer B motor. The fan fit great.

Next was tackling the hole. I read in the earlier thread that the individual tried a 3 5/8 hole saw and couldn't get it to work. So I set out to figure this out because I wanted a clean stock looking round hole for the new motor. What I wound up doing, and it took me a bit to get it done , was a small piece of strap metal. I drilled a hole in the center, then eyeballed it center in the stock firewall hole and then marked the lowest mounting hole and the top passengerside mounting hole on the strap. Drilled those holes then mounted the strap across the motor hole in the firewall. Ot did two things. It flatened out the firewall, as mine had a slight wave in it, and it served as a holder for the hole saw. Worked great! Nice clean cut, had to clean the edging a little but the new motor slid right in. Got everything hooked up and bolted down with new heater core and the blower works awesome! Definitely worth the effort. We will see this winter how well the defrost works. But it really puts out the heat.
 
So, did you use the 3 5/8" or go to another size? I plan on doing this soon and have a 3 5/8" already. I'll b using the strap method of locating the pilot hole as well.

The 3 5/8 is perfect. No problems. Also the strap works great holding the hole saw centered. With the 3 5/8 hole size, there is just enough room to compensate for small alignment issues. Maybe 1/16 of an inch clearance is centered perfectly. It was just the right size.
 
Well got some new updating on the CJ.

I decided to update the oil pressure and voltage gauges. In doing so, the volt gauge was very easy swap. The oil pressure gauge however was not. I did this update because the old stock gauge was eratic at best. So got the oil gauge installed. I used the port the oil pressure sensor was formerly using. I seen oil make it's way up to the gauge or I had thought it did. So I was getting zero gauge needle movement. So I figured the oil pump was worn to the point it wasn't registering properly. So I order a new oil pump face, had the impeller kit already. Installed those, cranked the engine over a few times to prime the pump. Started it up, and no change on the gauge. So got to looking closer AT the guage itself. Decided to loosen the line as there was an air bubble right at the gauge. Started to loosen it and all of a sudden the gauge shot up to 40 psi ! So now all is good. Have excellent oil pressure. Never drops below 15 psi after hot at idle.

I also ordered the plastic heater box floor part. Got it installed also and works great. I can't remember the technical name, it divides the blower between the driver and passenger side floor boards.

Also ordered the weather seal kits for both doors. Haven't installed yet. Maybe tomorrow or Sunday.

I redinished my hard top a few weeks ago. I used Herculiner out of a rattle can. Put three cans on. Came out pretty well. The sides are near perfect. The top is a little streaky. I just couldn't get it to blend because of such a narrow spray pattern. It would have been much better to if had used a HVLP spray gun. But the finish is semi course, similar to what it was. It seems to be pretty hard stuff too. I am planning at some point to put this on my floor boards. I had used Rustoleum bed liner. It was ok, but Herculiner seem to be better quapity and much more durable. One warning with the Herculiner. Do not put whatever you spray in direct sunlight until it has fully cured out. I had this brihht idea to roll it out into the sun to let it warm up in hopes it would cure out faster. What it did was start to bubble. I fixed the bubbling, but don't even try it. Wait until it cures out.

I finally got my Transmission . NP435 for $100. Next is to call Novak and talk to someone to get lined out on exactly what is needed for the swap. I plan on the rebuild kit for the Transmission , the adapter kit and pilot bearing with a new clutch as this one is oil soaked. Which leads to the other project and that is the rear main seal. It will be changed out when the tranny swap is going on. Probably will do this first. I also am going to put a seal kit in my Dana 300 and run the stock gearing for now. I sat back and thought doing it all at once is a huge project and I want to drive the jeep off and on after the swap. So decided to go with the np435, rebuilt, new clutch, stock Dana 300 and have to new driveshafts made. Then we'll see if I am satisfied with the crawl ratio at that point. If not, it won't be too bad to pop the Transfer Case off and put in the low gear kit and new bearings.
 
I bet you will be happy with your Transmission , I had one in my 85 Dodge it had a heck of a low gear in it. Any updates?
 
Ok. Gert, no new updates on the Transmission swap. Had contract negotiations to get through and now waiting for tax season to get over with. I'm chomping at the bit to get going. Once that's settled, it open season. Still sticking with original plan.

So I have been doing some smaller stuff instead. Planning a dual battery install in near future. I decided to pull the trigger on my headlight upgrade. Went with a set of halogen KC HiLight headlights. Install wasn't too bad. Worked ok with stock wiring too. I went up and bought a couple relays and rewired the headlights. I went with a 14 guage supply wire, and am going back and puting in a 12 guage instead. Inline 30amp fuse, two 30 amp relays, a new dimmer switch. All done in about 30 minutes and made a noticable difference in brightness. I would recommend the headlights and relay upgrade. Worth the time and effort. I checked the wiring and am getting a solid 12v to the lights. Am thinking about upgrading the tail light wiring also. Just in future plans though.

Next will be the dual battery upgrade I think.
 
No worries I totally understand, it has taken me years to get as far as I am everything in the world seems to get in the way


Sent from my couch using Tapatalk
 
And I don’t know about you guys, but my wife seems to think stuff like mowing the lawn, painting the house, etc...... is more important than getting the Jeep running.


Sent from my gas grille using Tapatalk
 
Sure thing. I have been known to just go buy itnor I'll nver get it. Easier to ask for forgiveness than asking for permision. :)
 
Sure thing. I have been known to just go buy itnor I'll nver get it. Easier to ask for forgiveness than asking for permision. :)

I'm at this point in my life. Dam the torpedos. Ramming speed !
 

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