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Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7

Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7
Thanks. I am active in jeepforum but i figured this might be another really good source of info as well! I am jdhuffcj5 over there. I like this name better as that is what I have named my 5.


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1979bettywhite said:
Thanks. I am active in jeepforum but i figured this might be another really good source of info as well!
Click to expand...

A very good source of info without the attitude. There's no "secret handshake" needed here to participate..... well, as far as I know there isn't one. LOL

WELCOME ABOARD!!
 
:agree:

I too post on that forum. :eek:
Shum8 is 'rite' about the 'tude deal.
IF he knew about the handshake, then it's not a secret any longer. :laugh::poke:
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
IF he knew about the handshake, then it's not a secret any longer.
Click to expand...

See, I KNEW it!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA

I do go there to peruse Jeephammer's posts - I don't have much electrical skills and his posts are awsome. Other than that, I'd just as soon hang out here..... now, to figure out that handshake :chug:
 
Last edited:
Well, while you all were yip yapping, I went out today and bought a winch and mounting plate, and installed and working!

I wound up buying a badlands 12,000 lb. winch. I couldn't pass the deal. It was cheap. I just hope it holds up. I seen mixed reviews but an offroad mag gave it the best bang for the buck thumbs up so I got it. Sucker is heavy. I think I lost an inch of lift on the front end.

I also got my shims. I didn't realise until today, those shims are bolted to the leaf spring pack. So that will be a more involved process as I have long enough bolts, I just need to figure out whats going to happen when I loosen the bolt to take it out. So I may or may not get to it this week.

Got my moser axle kit yesterday. As you would expect, one of the spacers has.some damage around the inside portion of the ring. They put the small parts in a padded.envelope and it looked like it exploded inside out. All the other parts look ok. It will be a little while before I tackle this project. I want to buy a 20 ton press first.

Carry on...,
 
I slide the bearing onto the Moser with a 4' section of steel pipe.
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
I slide the bearing onto the Moser with a 4' section of steel pipe.
LG
Click to expand...

That seems harsh. But doable. I was thinking of dropping the axles in the deep freeze for a couple days then warm the bearings up with a heat gun, not hot just really warm and that should make things easier if I did it with a pipe.

I am just nervous about damaging the bearing.

You use a hammer to drive it on? Or slide hammer using the pipe?
 
It really isn't. ;) The pipe pushes on the bearing race. I put a light coat of grease on where the bearing fits on the axle. Slide the bearing on and with the axle hub on a block of wood(not touch'n the wheel studs). With just the pipe, I will tap the bearing into place. Done several axle sets this way.
No need to do the shake & bake deal. :D
:chug:
LG
 
Check out the YouTube video on the review/take apart of the badlands 12,000. May want to consider some of the steps he took as far as re-greasing things with a different grease.

You will also learn a ton about it. I considered them, but got a good deal on my warn and plate.

The only bad thing I have heard about them is they are a slow and can't run them for too long. Here is the video:

https://youtu.be/TN5vAAdKP94


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It's not a Warn, but a 12k lb winch for 300 bucks ( that also has a fairly decent review list) is hard to beat.


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It's not a Warn, but a 12k lb winch for 300 bucks ( that also has a fairly decent review list) is hard to beat.


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Ran into a guy everlasting months ago buying one - said it was his third. They have a one year warranty, and he said he tried to kill the first one under warranty, to see how tough it was. Couldn't. So he was buyin two more for his other trucks. I've always heard that it's a hit and miss deal with their electronics, but these seem to be pretty tough


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Trying to get a better picture for you of the mount.

I agree LG that I might get some dirt etc. in the working parts of the hi-lift with this mount. Can always throw it in the back when out on the trail. Always keep some wd-40 with me to flush and lubricate.
 
1979bettywhite said:
Trying to get a better picture for you of the mount.

I agree LG that I might get some dirt etc. in the working parts of the hi-lift with this mount. Can always throw it in the back when out on the trail. Always keep some wd-40 with me to flush and lubricate.
Click to expand...

Mount it across the inside back fenders. Where mine sits. ;)
Don't use WD-40 for this. Silicone spray is a better choice.
LG
 
1979bettywhite said:
Trying to get a better picture for you of the mount.

I agree LG that I might get some dirt etc. in the working parts of the hi-lift with this mount. Can always throw it in the back when out on the trail. Always keep some wd-40 with me to flush and lubricate.
Click to expand...

Had mounted mine inba similar fashion until LG spoke some logic. What's worse than road grime is the thick mud that will coat the jack. If you need it, it will be kind of hard to handle and won't be easy to use.

I settled on mounting mine on top of my rear spare tire carrier. The mounts are not meant for a round bar, but I'll modify it a bit more later. It's up away from the mud, still gets a little road grim but not as much as on the front bumper.
 
1979bettywhite said:
Check out the YouTube video on the review/take apart of the badlands 12,000. May want to consider some of the steps he took as far as re-greasing things with a different grease.

You will also learn a ton about it. I considered them, but got a good deal on my warn and plate.

The only bad thing I have heard about them is they are a slow and can't run them for too long. Here is the video:

https://youtu.be/TN5vAAdKP94


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Crazy, I just watched that video last night! Great video.

I plan on having a snatch block with me. I'll incorporate that when I use the winch. Some of the problem is heat. It builds up some heat. I think by using the snatch block it should keep the heat down.

Warns are good. I was considering a Smittybuilt. I like those and they are priced reasonable.
 
Lumpy Grits said:
It really isn't. ;) The pipe pushes on the bearing race. I put a light coat of grease on where the bearing fits on the axle. Slide the bearing on and with the axle hub on a block of wood(not touch'n the wheel studs). With just the pipe, I will tap the bearing into place. Done several axle sets this way.
No need to do the shake & bake deal. :D
:chug:
LG
Click to expand...

It's settled. Pipe it is. Now I just need to know how to get the backing plates off. I guess I could just break the old bearing and retaining ring off since these old axles are trash.
 
If the old axles are trash. Cut the bearing and retainer off to remove backing plate.
Do NOT switch backing plates from right to left side. Same for the star-wheel brake adjuster. :D
When you do the bearing install on the new axles. Install the bearing and then the retainer ring.
This would be a good time to 'turn' the drums and install new shoes while you're at it. Go to NAPA and get their top of the line brake shoes.
:chug:
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
If the old axles are trash. Cut the bearing and retainer off to remove backing plate.
Do NOT switch backing plates from right to left side. Same for the star-wheel brake adjuster. :D
When you do the bearing install on the new axles. Install the bearing and then the retainer ring.
This would be a good time to 'turn' the drums and install new shoes while you're at it. Go to NAPA and get their top of the line brake shoes.
:chug:
LG
Click to expand...

Hey. I just took the new axles out of the box. One is shorter than the other. What gives?

I hear you on the brakes.
 
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