1980 CJ7 ignition problems

1980 CJ7 ignition problems
one last thing before we slide hammer this thing (which is kinda a PITA )
because there's a "hardplate" that has to broken and removed THEN slide hammer

drill a shallow hole in the yellow spot just big enough to put that small screwdriver ( or a small punch) in

i had to do this to a 72 camaro long time back but it worked
 
Here is the tab on the ignition key that is the release.
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Just to the left of the yellow dot is where you should be pushing. Isn't it coming out when you press there.
6384d1315816598-1980-cj7-ignition-problems-ccc.jpg

If that doesn't work you may have to drill like what cerrajero was saying.
removelocknontilt.jpg

Here is another thread on the topic. http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f7/ignition-lock-cylinder-replacement-4616/
 
I thought so too Busa until i looked very close
and normally you pull everything out and bam theres the slot
once i looked if that was the slot then that would put the lock end right under the rack where the pink line is
and the lock is a female to the gear that moves the rack
then thinking this morning ( with lots of coffee) i was
:censored::censored::censored::bang::bang::bang: Ive done this a million years ago
and today i called a buddy with a old camaro and he sent me this other pic :notworthy:
but yes i totally agree with you on that it SHOULD be there
 
:)It worked you guys were correct had to push out pot metal at yellow dot and with lots of wd 40 it finally came out thanks !!!! on to the next issue.


Mounted the electrical switch will adjust tomorrow and then adjust the neutral safety switch and should be good to go.
 
great
did you get a replacement ?
 
Yes, got a replacement. Went in flawlessly. Works like a new one. Thanks again.
 
Update on ignition problems replaced
1.key cylinder lock
2.Electrical key switch
3.Ignition module
Jeep started up ran great and stopped thanks to all the help from this forum. I couldnt have done it without the help!
:chug:
 
Well guess what ?
Jeep ran fine for about two days now it cranks and will not start.voltmeter shows six volts to coil six volts out of coil coil is new and shows no damage.no voltage to spark plug wires could it be a distributor problem?:eek:
 
So you have 6 volts on the coil at the wire marked +
That's too low. Is that with the key in the run position or when you have it turned to start?
What's your battery voltage?


EDIT: Oh, and no it is not a problem with the distributor (or the coil). They don't have enough voltage to do their job.
 
voltmeter these
 
So you have 6 volts on the coil at the wire marked +
That's too low. Is that with the key in the run position or when you have it turned to start?
What's your battery voltage?


EDIT: Oh, and no it is not a problem with the distributor (or the coil). They don't have enough voltage to do their job.
Battery is 12 volt. I'm getting 6 volts with the key in the on position and in the start position.
 
Okay, so you have only 6 volts on the coil where it's marked +
Your starter cranks and cranks but never starts. Is that right? If so the battery has a good charge.
We know the starting system works so from here on out leave the key in the run position instead of start when checking voltages. We don't need to run the battery down unnecessarily.
When the key is in the run position do we have 12 volts on the battery and on the dash volt meter? But only 6 volts on the coil + terminal.
Sounds like we have too much voltage drop from the key to the coil. Maybe a bad connection. If something is disconnected you would get 0 volts. Corrosion could give a low voltage but the ignition switch is new. I can't imagine the connector on the wire harness is that bad but it's a possibility.
If I am on the right track we can test to see if it runs with a jumper from your battery to the + side of the coil. This should give 12 volts to the coil and the jeep should start and run.

EDIT: Double check that you are checking the small wire on the coil that says +. That should have 12 volts whenever the key is in the run position. (or whatever the battery voltage is)
 
bypassed key 12 volts to coil no start,cranks but no start smoked coil any ideas? :confused:
 
So you were not getting 12 volts at the coil. You made a jumper from the battery to the + terminal of the coil. Now we are get\ting 12 volts at the coil. Still no spark. Sounds like it might be the pickup assembly in the distributor.
What puzzles me is the issues that lead up to this. The coil burst. At one point you got it going but then one day it died again. Why only 6 volts on the coil after you replaced everything that should send 12 volts to the coil? Sounds like you have a short or something causing these electrical problems.
Very confusing.
 
New coil found bad wire. also found small problem with the auto Transmission neutal safety position. Now I would like to check timing to make sure no problems from here on any suggestions ? its a straight six cyclinder.
 
I am also going to replace distributor how can I make that easy without screwing up my timing bad ?
 
Replaced dist ign module neutral safety switch jeep started and ran for 30 mintues now will not start cranls no start suspect ign module again do any of you folks have new part problems ?
:mad:
 

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