Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Build

[KRUPP]

October 11, 22.
-Took the Heep down to the emissions checking station for the test. Was thinking "no way this thing will pass first try", because I've been there with other newer vehicles and I had to go back a couple times for re-tests. The front range of Colorado really sucks for this. Probably as bad as California, since we've adopted their commie regs. Anyway, I had my fingers crossed the whole time and we frik'n PASSED! Whew!

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[gert]

sweet congrats

 

[WHATROAD]

Congratulations on your success. Just a reminder though, the front range is a long stretch of mountains. Once you get South of Denver, there are no such requirements for emissions. Most of Colorado is not under that scrutiny. Congratulations again

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks guys.

-Now, time to work on the suspension and possibly upgrade the rear AMC20 . I have 2.70s in the axles now, which is crazy high. I plan on running a mild lift with 33" tires, so lower R&P gearing is necessary. Problem is, I don't want to spend any money on re-gearing the AMC20 . We've got at least 3 of them in the bone yard, discarded from prior builds in favor of other housings.

I know of a late '86 widetrack Dana 44 , but the guy is not quite ready to part with it. Also looking at Scout 44s too, but even those are hard to come by around here. Any ideas/leads out there? Budget is beginning to come to mind lately.

 

[KRUPP]

BINGO! Found a Scout II Dana 44 rear end in my dad's boneyard in Southern Colorado. Went down and met my brothers on Saturday to do some cleaning/sorting/throwing away stuff at the old shop/office. We filled a 30CY roll-off dumpster in about 5 hours. We probably have about 2 to go still. Still haven't really touched the auto parts stashes yet. Will have to take a good inventory.

-First thing to do is clean and disassemble the rear. I can't tell much about it because the original tag is broken off with only a couple digits left. It does have a second tag which stated to use special fluid, which tells me it has Limited slip of some sort. I think there might me a number stamped into one of the tubes, but I'll have to clean it first.
-Then, I'll have to locate a reasonably-priced disc brake kit and get the rear rebuilt with new R&P, locker, seals, bearings, etc.

 

[KRUPP]

-Nov 5, '22: Rebuild work begins on my newly acquired Scout II Dana 44 . Looked up the B.O.M. code stamped on the tube and it's a 1971 1/2 - 1972 with 3.73s and a Trac-Lok. Assembly was striped down and cleaned up. Old spring perches cut off and a coat of primer laid on. I located a shop in Colo Springs (D & C Extreme) where I'll take it for a rebuild. I'll also get disc brakes, while I'm at it. A new backing plate for the disc setup has to be installed behind the bearings when they're installed/pressed on. Might as well have it done now, I figured.
Planning on 4.56s with a locker and all new bearings and seals.
-Ordered suspension kit from 4Wheel Parts a couple weeks ago. They had a 10% off deal so I pulled the trigger. Elected to go with a Rubicon Express kit, because it seemed to be the most complete kit available and I like the wider front springs (2.5" vs 2"). I also ordered new 2.5" wide front shackle hangers, along with 4" long shackles vs the kits' 5.5" long shackles. Don't quite need that extra length and lift.
4Wheel Parts is having a heck of a time gathering all the parts to complete the kit. They're a bit short on some items locally, and had to source from other, distant warehouses.

 

[KRUPP]

Dec 29, '22:
-Retrieved my rear Dana 44 from the re-gearing shop. Bought some hard steel brake lines at NAPA with a plan in mind. Had some issues with my Flaring Tool on the new tube ends and had to re-do a couple times. I think it worked out ok though.
-Welded on the new spring perches. Did some angle measuring and spoke to the guys at the shop. I chose to go with 12 degrees of pinion angle for my rear.
-Removed the rear Model 20 and springs, kept it all in one piece. Will be taking to nearest salvage yard later this week, along with the old front springs.
-Front end is now at same shop getting rebuilt with open diff and 4:56s. Replacing the old pinion yoke, with the dinky bolts and straps, with the stronger U-bolt style Spicer unit.
-As I remove things I find more and more items that need replaced. Par for the course, so far. So, I ordered for the front end new spindles, bearings, seals, axle u-joints and ball joints.
-Received a new 1.25" dia. tie-rod and drag-link from "Rugged Ridge". A lot beefier than the OEM.
-Old front shackle hangers removed, and the rivet thru frame ground down on the bottom. Installed new "Fishbone" 2.5" wide shackle hangers to use with the my 2.5" wide front springs. Holes in the new hangers were such that the bushing holes would be too far forward. I think they're meant for YJs, which have slightly longer front springs. So, an hour-long project turned into 2 days, because of drilling new holes and fill-welding old holes/grinding smooth/repainting, etc. Did a couple short welds at frame junction, near old rivets, for good measure.

 

[Nikwho]

-But now, I see that the 2 little nylon flanged bushings (1/2" ID, go in the pivot of the booster linkage arm) are near their death. Where do I find these little gems? Internet search leads me to special ordering where the shipping costs about $50 for $5 bushings. Any ideas, other than searching the parts bins at the hardware/farm stores?

Those little bushings are called nyliners. They're common in Berkeley pumps in jet boats. Depending on size, Berkeley may sell them, or CPPerformance dot com. If they aren't a common boat size, I would look at McMaster Carr! But, a Google search of "nyliner" may get you more results. Good luck!

 

[TSB8C]

Dorman # 74016 nylon bushing set. I've also heard some people claim that the Dana 20 shift linkage nylon bushings can be used for the brake rod linkage, but I can't confirm that. The GM # 14046812 is also an option.

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks gents. I did figure out the bushing issue, but appreciate the info.

I do have another issue though. My new springs are way too short. Rubicon Express is taking care of it and sending 4 new replacements. But, wow! They’re about 3 inches shy, even with the weight of the Jeep on them. I can’t flip the shackle back. Could hardly even put the bolt through the shackle.

 

[KRUPP]

Jan 14:
-Rubicon Express sent me 4 new springs. Delivered in about 3 days. These are for a YJ with the same lift. They seem longer by about 1.5", and look better on the rear, at least. I think the springs will settle after a while and the shackle angle will get better. Not sure what to do with the other 4 springs, since they didn't want them back.
-Rear calipers and rotors installed with the hoses. The OEM lug studs were too short after installing the new rotors. Found some longer studs, but the shoulders protruded too much down the shaft of the stud and didn't penetrate through the mounting surface "hat" of the new rotors. So, I drilled out all 10 holes in the rotors slightly to 9/16", and the assembly fits real nice now.
-Went to install the new Parking Brake Cables and found that the driver side needed shortened by a bunch. So, had to re-build that cable. Also had to shorten both cables at the yoke end & install new cable stops. About 10" too long if I didn't shorten & not enough adjustment at the yoke bolt to pull in that much.
-To a point now where I'm debating a new brake proportioning valve block with my 4-wheel disc setup? I've heard it both ways, whether I need a new P-Valve block or not. What do you guys think?
-Rear drive shaft needs extended by about 1". I'll wait to measure the front end before I drop them off at the driveline shop to have re-done.
-Started to piece back together the front end. Installed all new Ball Joints on the knuckles while they're still divorced from the front end.

 

[gert]

back in the day they installed residual pressure valves on drum brake systems im not sure if the CJs had them, I did not see one in my MC so I swapped out my prop valve to a disc/disc to make sure I didnt have an issue

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks Gert. Your comment was the last straw.
I researched a bit more & just pulled the trigger and bought one from Summit for Disc/Disc applications. I believe all the fitting sizes should be ok. Only $50 and I figured that now's the time to replace the proportioning valve, since the MC is drained and there's no front axle or springs installed (Easy to get to it now, by the clutch crank arm). That area needs some cleaning up anyway. Just shot some PB Blaster on the fittings!

 

[gert]

Looks like your clutch linkage has some wear, it be a good time to weld the holes back round as well


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[Armyvet25]

Looks like your clutch linkage has some wear, it be a good time to weld the holes back round as well


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That's it, keep him busy lol

 

[KRUPP]

-Jan 19, 23:
Yeah. Just what I need, right? You're really looking at my pics, which is cool, I think. It actually is OK. The hole is not centered in that crank arm of the clutch bell crank. Whole contraption could definitely use some grease though!
-Swung the front end under and zipped on the u-bolts (too long, as usual). Will cut off about 1". Wanted to get the weight of the Jeep on the new springs to check shackle angle, shock length and drive shaft length. All look good, actually.
-Took just the rear drive shaft to a shop (Front Range Driveline) to have lengthened 1". U-bolts and slip joint are good on that shaft. Both of the 1310s on the front shaft are smoked!
-Received the new Brake Proportioning Valve today and will install soon. I cleaned it up pretty good, but hopefully the old one comes off ok.

 

[KRUPP]

Jan 26, 23:
-Picked up the rear drive shaft, which I had lengthened a touch. Looks real nice and not too pricey either.
-Removed the Brake Proportioning Valve in preparation of installing the new one. Took a lot longer than it should have, but that's nothing new. Busted a nut loose inside the frame. Arrrggg!
-In the process of removing the Proportioning Valve, I also removed the clutch push rod (the adjustable one from the crank to the throwout arm). It was just in the way. Needless to say, it's a bit worn out and also needs replaced. That's how this project has been going though.
-Plan to install the knuckles tomorrow.

 

[KRUPP]

Feb 1, 23:
-Knuckles installed with their new ball joints.
-New brake proportioning valve installed.
-New lower clutch linkage rod installed.
-New U-joints installed on front axle shafts, along with new seals. New spindles & hub bearings and seals installed as well.
-New tie-rod and drag link (heavier/1.25"dia.) and damper installed.
-Toe-in set last night.

Registered for the Moab Easter Jeep Safari a few days ago. Reserved a hotel as well. It's been about 20 years since I last went! So, we'll see if I can get this jeep dialed-in by early April.

 

[CJ]

Feb 1, 23:
-Knuckles installed with their new ball joints.
-New brake proportioning valve installed.
-New lower clutch linkage rod installed.
-New U-joints installed on front axle shafts, along with new seals. New spindles & hub bearings and seals installed as well.
-New tie-rod and drag link (heavier/1.25"dia.) and damper installed.
-Toe-in set last night.

Registered for the Moab Easter Jeep Safari a few days ago. Reserved a hotel as well. It's been about 20 years since I last went! So, we'll see if I can get this jeep dialed-in by early April.

It's great to see your progress and that your heading back to Moab!

 

[Belizean]

Feb 1, 23:
-Knuckles installed with their new ball joints.
-New brake proportioning valve installed.
-New lower clutch linkage rod installed.
-New U-joints installed on front axle shafts, along with new seals. New spindles & hub bearings and seals installed as well.
-New tie-rod and drag link (heavier/1.25"dia.) and damper installed.
-Toe-in set last night.

Registered for the Moab Easter Jeep Safari a few days ago. Reserved a hotel as well. It's been about 20 years since I last went! So, we'll see if I can get this jeep dialed-in by early April.

KRUPP what are the dates for the MEJS event ?