Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Rebuild - Chasing my youth

Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Rebuild - Chasing my youth
So with the current state of things and highly recommended to stay home, I decide to use the time to better myself. I helped stimulate the economy and try to learn a new skill. This will get interesting, never welded ever....

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Nice setup! Glad your starting out with the Argon C02. I cheeped out when I got my Mig and used shielded wire instead. I finally bit the bullet and got a tank, world of difference!! So much easier and cleaner.
 
Ultra, thanks for the assist!
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Finally got my power steering hoses resolved. Got hooked up with a local guy who does custom hose work and well, only took one shot to get the right set up and perfect bends.

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Got several fitment items on. Air cleaner on and plenty of hood clearance. Headers will clear fenders and steering shaft.

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And lastly, laid my first beads. Think I’m going to love this! Need several more hours of practice before I touch the Jeep. I bought some same thickness steel as the tub to get a feel for and dial it in. Amazing how much steel warps under heat.

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You've done a really great job documenting your build... and loving this thread...!

Thanks for taking the time to share your process.

That SBC is gorgeous... can't wait to hear you fire it off.
 
You've done a really great job documenting your build... and loving this thread...!

Thanks for taking the time to share your process.

That SBC is gorgeous... can't wait to hear you fire it off.


Mdeluca, you were my inspiration. Your build was the first one I read. Your thorough documentation is what prompted me. You, Shum, and Gert single handily tied up hours of free time glued to reading your builds. I still reference your blog quite often.

I can’t thank you three enough for all your guys time to documenting!!!


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As soon as you’re proficient, I’m coming to you for welding help.


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Well, I’m consuming as much how to content as I can and usually get sucked into these type of things. Built many things around the house after many hours of how to research. We’ll see how it progresses, but would love to give back to the group after all that I’ve taken.


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Took the day off from work on Friday. Needed a break given the current state of things and well, exhaust shop isn’t open on Saturdays. Thankfully Uhaul is considered essential. Guy did a nice job and I felt very reasonable. Fully welded, custom bends, out behind the wheels, with Magnaflows and even welded in a bung for my O2 sensor.

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With that done, was time to hang fenders and grill for dry fit. Pretty good except passenger fender needs a small trim on the pinch weld where it meets the grill. I do think the captive nut on the bottom of the grill is spun. So that is going to require some attention. Besides I have a second grill that has the chrome overlay that I’m really wanting to run.

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Played with the welder some more this morning. Trying to really dial in heat settings on scrap before attempting to patch old gas filler opening. I’m not getting burn through on butt welds on the same thickness material, but feel like I’m not getting full penetration. Not heat spot on backside of stitch welds, but not completely filling the gap. Tried a larger gap, and will fill all the way through, but welds get much uglier. Tighter gap, much nicer stitch welds but still significant gap on backside it seems. I’m expecting the weld puddle to fill the through the gap? Correct? No?

I did finally venture onto the Jeep and fill some holes on the bumper where PO has plate bracket mounted. I’m runner it the OEM spot. So decided how bad could I screw up a bumper. Tried two methods. Straight circular weld to fill the hole and also cut some small pieces of bolt for t he threaded holes. Threaded them in just below surface and let it rip. Both seemed to produce decent results. So pretty pumped even though super rudimentary, to be making progress towards doing more of the build my self.

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Well, I was getting a little a confident in my welding and impatient. So with only a little more practice on the scrap, I dove head long into the tub.

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The $13 clamps from Eastwood worked pretty good and forced me to have a uniformed gap. Now I hadn’t had one instance of blow through on the scrap of same gauge until my second tack! Boom, right through in the corner. Tried to recover, hole got bigger.

Confidence eroding quickly. As I worked around the panel, upper left corner sizzled perfect and tacked well. Many other spots, lots of popping and spattering, tried changing voltage settings, wire speed and not much improvement. But I took my time and seemed to find that if I started my next tack off a weld puddle and not the tub metal, it burned a little cleaner.

In the end, I accomplished what I wanted, I didn’t warp the piece, got good penetration which I had a little trouble with earlier on, had a little porousity but was able to fill the blow throw holes, and I did it myself. Light skim of body filler and I actually think it’ll be good.

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I am interested to see though, does anyone one have any idea why I started to get these spiked tacks?

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Looks really good. I think I have a lead on a YJ tub. I may call you for some weld help. Haha.


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Nice quick and progressive evening tonight.

Started the Blazer motor upgrade.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/heater-blower-motor-upgrade-376987/?amp=1

I used this article and it’s spot on except... on the YJ tub, the blower motor hole is much larger, just over 3” versus 2 3/4” on the CJ tub.

This diagram is great for creating a jig for the hole saw... except for some small changes to dimensions.

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These three holes are all same dimensions.

When you go to line up the jig on the tub (engine bay side) instead of 1/2” from the edge of metal piece to the hole edge, use 1 5/8” from center hole to edge of existing tub hole. I used tape to hold in place and make small adjustments. c3d32cfc0a9d682ba3400fd7a12fc256.jpg

Once lined up, used some more tape and a magnet on cabin side to to hold in place to drill the outer small hold down screw holes in tub.

Instead of 5/8” from screw hole to outer edge of existing hole, you should be about 7/16”.
(Under dash view)
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Once holes drilled, send a couple sheet metal screws through on engine bay side to secure to tub and then let her rip from the cabin side with the 3 1/4” hole saw. Fits excellent

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Alright, this one is a little long.

Got quite a bit done this weekend. First off, needed to relocate the windshield hold down holes. Mulled over several, ideas, but metal is real thin, so just cutting and tapping a new hole was out. Thought about trying to cut the nut out and move, but decided easiest was to do an insert nut.

First, had to cut out the existing nut to make room for the insert.

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I’ll try to keep this PG, lol. Then drilled my hole, inserted my nut, crimped and then tack welded both the front side and rear with a pair of tacks.


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Seems solid enough for its purpose. I then moved on to the defrost vents. I have to thank Shum8 for giving the tutorial for this.

3/4” angle to start. Cut off the nub on the center section. And then some ok welds and then some not ok welds.

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I then had to plug the holes on the holes on either end cause I’ll need to put screw holes in to hold the defrost duct.

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I didn’t get to finish the cuts as my harbor freight special cut off wheel puked and the metal is double pinched underneath, so was throwing jig saw for a loop. With have to get a cut off wheel my Milwaukee grinder.


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Out of curiosity. Why did you have to move the windshield hold down holes and defroster ducts?


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They’re different on a YJ tub and I’m running a CJ windshield. If you look at the first picture, the hole to the right of the market circle is where the YJ hold down brackets are for a YJ windshield frame I’m assuming. They lined up on the CJ dash, but not the tub. Also the defrost ducts on CJ windshield frame are different.


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Thanks. I’m obviously asking with my agenda in mind. Haha.

I didn’t realize they were different.


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Very productive weekend

Finished the dash work and got my defrost ducts cut

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Then moved onto the transmission tunnel cover. Thought about trying to weld up one of the stock ones to close the holes, but it was thin metal and felt easier to brave the Depot early morning and get a sheet of metal.

Templated it out and went to town.

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Then moved onto a little pet peeve. For whatever reason on the driver side of the YJ tub, only two of the four seat bolts had captive nuts. Decided to make my own.

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Some decent welds on the washer and nut and the bird :dung: welds underneath. Welding upside down is not easy.

Then it was on to the tailgate conversion. CJ gate to YJ tub. I piggybacked off of what Shum did. The tailgate area is only 1/16” thick. So I wasn’t comfortable just doing insert nuts. So I thought, if I could put a small plate behind, that would spread the load out a bit. The holes for the insert nuts for 5/16” bolts was 1/2” so I made plates that were just under 7/8” to fit in the single hole under the tub.

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Then I figured I could tack weld the plates to the tub. I use the insert nuts to index the holes and then was able to snake a pair of vice grips into the tub hole and hole the plate tight. I also used a uni bit to counter sink the the nuts

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Lastly I filled the fender flare holes for the YJ as not used with CJ flares.
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Dude you are killing it. Amazing work.


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I played that game too....lol
 

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Impory, how was cutting those ducts? You have the same pinched seam towards the inside of the tub that was an absolute bear? I’m almost wondering if my duct holes were too far back and that’s why I ran into that seam. But I mocked my windshield and template up a bunch and the holes seem right on


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Thanks. I’m obviously asking with my agenda in mind. Haha.

I didn’t realize they were different.


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There are just enough subtle differences between a CJ tube and YJ tube to make you wonder why in the :dung: would they have even bothered. The body mounts in front of the rear tires and the most rear boy mounts are in a different location, the cowl is different, and the gas filler neck is on the opposite side


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Windshield wash squirters. Don’t forget tailgate too. I’m kind of stuck on the spare tire carrier. I’d really like to run the stock one, I do have the carrier and latch, but don’t have the mounts. And there doesn’t seem to be any after market ones. I know I’d have to weld plates into the tub too. Bumpers with tire carriers are pricey.


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