232 still wont run in my 77 CJ7 ???

232 still wont run in my 77 CJ7 ???

CoreyYoungCj577

Senior Jeeper
Posts
999
Thanks
0
Location
Billings,MT
Vehicle(s)
1977 cj7 232 inline 6,Dana 20 Tc,T-150 Trans, stock diffs.
So the last few days ive been getting the old gas tank back in my 7, well i did everything i needed. Reconnected all the new fuel line and the few wires back there, blew out the metal fuel lines with carb cleaner, washed the tank out and put fresh gas in, I still cant believe my tank was just a big steel box. But the one thing i didnt do because i didnt know what i had to do was clean the spark plugs, so today im going to take a hand held torch and burn the carbon off the plugs and wire brush them clean and hope it fires! But i am wondering what you guys may think it might be if cleaning the plugs doesnt let it fire.
To give some history on what happened, i had done a fresh tune up on the old 7 a few days before this happened and drove it around one night and then i parked it in the garage, the next day i tried starting it and it ran like it was missing on all the cylinders, which it was because all the plugs were fouled, so i rebuilt the carb. So if you guys have any insight on what it could be other then carb issues please let me know what you think!
 
When you turn it over, pull a plug wire and see if you get a spark if you hold it up to the block. some guys prefer to put their finger or even their tongue up close to the wire but I find the block works well enough.
If you have a spark, look down the carb and pump the throttle, You should have a noticeable spray of fuel. If not, you may have not run it enough to bring fuel from the tank.
You may have to prime the carb, put about 1/4 cup of fuel in the carb, to turn it over enough to bring fuel from the tank.
Unless the plugs have bridged the gap with carbon I would not sweat the plugs, in fact, pull the plug, put it in the wire and ground it to the block to check the spark.

There are only two things that can stop you from running, no fire and no fuel.
I am figuring you just don't have fuel to the carb yet.
 
This all started so long ago, did you ever confurm that it didn't jump time?
Oh yea what IO said.
 
This all started so long ago, did you ever confurm that it didn't jump time?
Oh yea what IO said.

I didnt really think it jumped time, for the simple fact that if it had jumped time i dont think ALL the plugs would have gotten fouled or any at that but im no ASE certified mechanic so correct me if im wrong lol and Thanks IO ill check the plugs and wires later today, im still going to burn the carbon off and check the gaps because i still think that 4 plugs are fouled, because 2 are brand new in it. I did prime the carb two different times with about a 1/8 the first time and a 1/4 the second forgot to mention that :) im thinking there is no fire, but i did have a buddy look down the carb to see if it was getting fuel and he didnt see very much squirt in, but even had it squirted enough i dont know if the plugs would have fired it. Ill get you updated on this later, oh ya IO guess what :D I'll get you your pictures today!
 
"some guys prefer to put their finger or even their tongue up close to the wire"

Can't say as I recomend that!:eek:

Other than that, you gotta determine if you have a spark or not then go from there.
my2Cents
 
Mechanical fuel pump?

How do you tell if its mechanical? it goes on to the engine. So and i had my dad and my neighbor come up and the rotor doesnt point dead on the first plug wire and it has spark they think the timing is off, so unless i can get this running AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with a 4 speed and rolling frame for 100 bucks then im out of luck till i can buy a new timing chain :(
 
Moisture inside the new distributor cap?
 
If the fuel pump is attached to the side of the engine, it's mechanical. If it was electrical, it could be mounted on the frame, on the fender, nearly anywhere.

Ok, so... ignition timing won't change overnight. How about the choke? Is it closing? Can you make it run better by holding your hand over the choke, or is that worse?

Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor (ENGINE OFF). Stick the end of the fuel line into a clean, dry soda (or beer) can. Take the coil wire completely off and crank the engine for a couple of seconds.There should now be a couple of ounces of gasoline in the can. Smell it - does it smell sharp & pungent like good new gasoline? Pour it into a glass jar & look at it. Did you maybe leave some water in the tank when you washed it out?

Oh, put the fuel line & coil wire back now. Thanks. :)
 
I've seen mech. fuel pumps not pump fuel.
I've poured fuel down the line toward the fuel pump,
kinda to prime it, then it started working.

If you pull the line as suggested above and turn the motor over
it should put fuel in the can, if it doesn't try pouring a little gas
down the line toward the fuel pump and hook it to the carb and
then try starting it.

Ignition timing can change over night, if it jumped timing when you shut it down,
happened to me once when I was younger, had me completely confused.
 
I've seen mech. fuel pumps not pump fuel.
I've poured fuel down the line toward the fuel pump,
kinda to prime it, then it started working.

If you pull the line as suggested above and turn the motor over
it should put fuel in the can, if it doesn't try pouring a little gas
down the line toward the fuel pump and hook it to the carb and
then try starting it.

Ignition timing can change over night, if it jumped timing when you shut it down,
happened to me once when I was younger, had me completely confused.

Well i priced a new timing chain set for 61 bucks but thats without my discount so it could be cheaper (I Hope) and i will have to test some of that but i think it would be pointless because it's doing the same exact thing as before so really it could only be timing. The fuel pump is new and we tested the old one and the new one they both had worked fine.
 
Before you order that timing chain set... look at the old one first. If it's still in time, that's not the problem.
 
Pull the timing gear cover off. Look at it!
Did it fire when you primed the carb?? back fire??
What kind of junk did you take out of the tank?
 
Pull the timing gear cover off. Look at it!
Did it fire when you primed the carb?? back fire??
What kind of junk did you take out of the tank?

It fired, when i primed the carb and shook like a son of a bitch and no back fire it had NO throttle respone and the only thing that was in the tank, was this plastic cylinder wrapped in yellow mesh and i took that out. I may tackle the timing chain tomorrow. But when i pull the cover how do i tell if its off time? or has slop? and Old Dog i called the guy with the frame and offered 100 bucks and he said he couldnt do it for the whole thing because it has tires and rims and a running engine and everything worked, but then i offered him 100 for the transmission and transfercase because its a 1984 frame so it could be a t-18a or a T-176 with the Dana 300 . The Tank was fairly clean never saw rust and there wasnt anything in it i could notice.
 
It fired, when i primed the carb and shook like a son of a bitch and no back fire it had NO throttle respone and the only thing that was in the tank, was this plastic cylinder wrapped in yellow mesh and i took that out. I may tackle the timing chain tomorrow. But when i pull the cover how do i tell if its off time? or has slop? and Old Dog i called the guy with the frame and offered 100 bucks and he said he couldnt do it for the whole thing because it has tires and rims and a running engine and everything worked, but then i offered him 100 for the transmission and transfercase because its a 1984 frame so it could be a t-18a or a T-176 with the Dana 300 . The Tank was fairly clean never saw rust and there wasnt anything in it i could notice.
There will be timing marks on the timing sprockets. If it is loose enough to jump timing you will be able to tell.
Is the distributer loose, can you turn it by hand?? could it have moved??
 
There will be timing marks on the timing sprockets. If it is loose enough to jump timing you will be able to tell.
Is the distributer loose, can you turn it by hand?? could it have moved??

Nope its not loose at all i cant turn it at all i know that for a fact, it has to be slop in the chain after the one night i turned it off it probably just wanted to piss me off so.
 
Have you checked you control module? you mentioned that you did a tune-up a few days before, did you change the module? The reason that i ask is last spring i did a routine tune-up (jeep was running great just normal preventive maint.) changed plugs,wires,rotor,cap and module and after going to work a few times it started running like:dung:. I just thought i had gotten some bad gas at wal-mart. so i pumped the gas out and put it in the tractor. I cleared the lines and put fresh gas no change:wtf: Then i decided to look at the plugs they were all fouled but #1????? Checked spark it was weak, put old coil back on no change????? put old moldule back and bingo it ran fine:eek: Took the new module back and had it tested :down::down:. the parts house replaced it, but i had them test it first and after testing six new modules and all of them failed i got my money back and went to napa and got a module. no more cheap ignition parts for my cj(bought generic low-cost parts and it really cost me in the long run)
 
Last edited:

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
Back
Top Bottom