232 still wont run in my 77 CJ7 ???

232 still wont run in my 77 CJ7 ???
IOPort51 said:
Just so I have this straight, Wally world sold you a wire that goes from the case of the control module to the block??:wtf:
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Lol i think i may have confused you guys, i bought battery cable wires from wally world and new terminals, and from the negative battery cable it grounds on the block and then there is another cable i think spliced onto it that goes to the module id have to go look and take a picture for ya.
 
CoreyYoungCj577 said:
Lol i think i may have confused you guys, i bought battery cable wires from wally world and new terminals, and from the negative battery cable it grounds on the block and then there is another cable i think spliced onto it that goes to the module id have to go look and take a picture for ya.
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well while you are out there looking and finding, go ahead and remove the bolt that holds the ground wire on the module and clean the rust/paint, whatever from the point of contact and re bolt it, a dab of dielectric grease wouldn't hurt. then prime the carb and turn the key and tell us if it starts. The suspence is killing me!!:lpopcorn:
 
IOPort51 said:
the ones from HF are kind of cool, you can even check the "polarity of transistors if that is something important to you. The down side is you have to remember to turn it off.:(
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And their GAIN, no less!

Been a long time since I've wanted to test a 2N2222 or a 2N3904.

Ya see their probe-type meter? I used to have a Beckman DM73, I think it was. Wore it around my neck nearly 24/7 for almost ten years. Ain't nothin' handier in the field.
 
TDHofstetter said:
And their GAIN, no less!

Been a long time since I've wanted to test a 2N2222 or a 2N3904.

Ya see their probe-type meter? I used to have a Beckman DM73, I think it was. Wore it around my neck nearly 24/7 for almost ten years. Ain't nothin' handier in the field.
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I wish I could carry on an intelligent conversation with you about such things.
My Dad was an electronics engineer and several of my good friends are but try as they mite they could not hammer much of this into me. I can wire an LED and build a voltage regulator for them and in a pinch can build a transistor timer circuit as in the intermittent wipers in the J-10 but that’s about all and it is necessary for me to do a lot of study every time I need to do these things. I’m not going to hijack Cory’s thread but if you know a way to test a Triac relay with a voltmeter Please send a PM,
I have to deal with them some times in AC control systems and they drive me crazy because I can not just test them as a switch.
:chug:
 
So i finally got my fiancee's phone rebate and i have 70 bucks on the card and i was going to order a new timing chain set and gaskets, anyone have any insight on where i should order it from?what kind? and has anyone ever heard of switching there timing chain out for timing gears? if so can someone send me a link to buying those! Thanks Guys!
 
CoreyYoungCj577 said:
So i finally got my fiancee's phone rebate and i have 70 bucks on the card and i was going to order a new timing chain set and gaskets, anyone have any insight on where i should order it from?what kind? and has anyone ever heard of switching there timing chain out for timing gears? if so can someone send me a link to buying those! Thanks Guys!
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I think gears are going to cost you a bunch more than $70. The chain set will do quite well at RPM's below 8K.:cool: I think you could upgrade to a "roller" chain. I take it the old chain is FUBAR? I still have not seen a picture one of the new tub and stuff. :cool:
 
Straight gears won't work AT ALL - not without a reverse-ground camshaft and a reverse-running distributor and idler gears between 'em, which adds a bunch of complication. With a timing chain, the two sprockets turn the same direction. In timing-geared engines, they turn opposite directions because of the gear mesh.

Timing chain is JUST FINE. You can get a decent timing set (chain and both sprockets) for less than $50. Are you shooting for extreme performance, or just moderate street (so it'll still idle)?
 
TDHofstetter said:
Straight gears won't work AT ALL - not without a reverse-ground camshaft and a reverse-running distributor and idler gears between 'em, which adds a bunch of complication. With a timing chain, the two sprockets turn the same direction. In timing-geared engines, they turn opposite directions because of the gear mesh.

Timing chain is JUST FINE. You can get a decent timing set (chain and both sprockets) for less than $50. Are you shooting for extreme performance, or just moderate street (so it'll still idle)?
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I just want the thing to run lol and not have to drain the coolant anymore that gets old after the third or fourth time lol, and whats the price difference between performance and moderate street?
 
TDHofstetter said:
(smacks self in head) Sorry 'bout that.

How's this?

Original Replacement Parts 3-494S - Melling Automotive Timing Set for 65-90 Jeep® CJ & Wrangler YJ with 232, 258 - Quadratec
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Thanks, i was wondering how hard of a job this really is? im going to try cheap jeeps thing first and take on the valve cover and TDC it and see where they are sitting if ones any lower than the other. But dont have just have to remove the fan and harmonic balancer, then take the cover off and check where the marks are. I dont have to drop the oil pan or take the water pump out first or anything complicated?
 
Nope - to check & replace the timing chain you don't have to do anything to the top or the bottom of the engine - just the front. Fan, balancer, timing cover. If the motor's got a lot of miles on it, the chain's probably pretty fairly stretched... and it's not a bad idea to replace it while you're in there. They're cheap.
 
TDHofstetter said:
Nope - to check & replace the timing chain you don't have to do anything to the top or the bottom of the engine - just the front. Fan, balancer, timing cover. If the motor's got a lot of miles on it, the chain's probably pretty fairly stretched... and it's not a bad idea to replace it while you're in there. They're cheap.
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I was just talking to my uncle and me being VERY Limited on tools, he says that i need a puller to take the harmonic balancer off? is that true, but is there any other kind of special tools i would need to take the balancer off and is there anything i would need for the timing chain?
 
You really should have a top dead center finder. and yes you need a puller for the balancer.
 
Old Dog said:
You really should have a top dead center finder. and yes you need a puller for the balancer.
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If you wouldnt mind could you find me a picture of a Top dead center finder? and the puller i have an idea what the puller looks like, not 100% though thanks for the input.
 
In a pinch TDC can be found by pulling the plug on #1, shine a light in and rotate the motor and see when the piston gets to the top, or use a thin piece of rubber fuel line stick it in the spark plug hole and rotate the motor when it stops moving that's TDC.
Actually when it stops moving make a note of where the pulley is at then keep moving it slowly when it begins to move again make note, betweend those 2 points is TDC.
Remember to hold on to the fuel line, if you drop it it'll be a biotch to get back.
Use rubber not wood or metal.

I'm tired but my info should be straight.
 
I might note that if you happen to buy the timing chain set from AutoZone, they'll usually let you borrow any special tools it takes to do the job. If you buy that set anywhere else, ya gotta' round up your own puller.

The TDC finder isn't usually so much an issue; you can easily get by without one. After you get the timing cover off, you can rotate the crankshaft by hand (spark plugs out) with a wrench on the (reinstalled) damper bolt until the timing marks on the two sprockets are lined up correctly. When they're lined up, you're on TDC - no question. From that moment until you have the new chain properly installed, you do NOT disturb that engine. When you put the new chain & sprockets on, make sure that the marks line up again, and they should go right onto the crankshaft & camshaft without moving anything.

Next, rotate the crankshaft until the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket points up-right at about the 1:00 position and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket points straight toward the 3:00 position. Count the number of chain pins BETWEEN the timing marks - there must be exactly 15 pins between 'em.
 
Tim, what you say is true IF the dampner hasn't sliped and if the chaim hasn't jumped time. for under 10$ why not know for sure.
 
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