232 still wont run in my 77 CJ7 ???

[IOPort51]

Have you checked you ignition module? you mentioned that you did a tune-up a few days before, did you change the module? The reason that i ask is last spring i did a routine tune-up (jeep was running great just normal preventive maint.) changed plugs,wires,rotor,cap and module and after going to work a few times it started running like. I just thought i had gotten some bad gas at wal-mart. so i pumped the gas out and put it in the tractor. I cleared the lines and put fresh gas no change Then i decided to look at the plugs they were all fouled but #1????? Checked spark it was weak, put old coil back on no change????? put old moldule back and bingo it ran fine Took the new module back and had it tested :down::down:. the parts house replaced it, but i had them test it first and after testing six new modules and all of them failed i got my money back and went to napa and got a module. no more cheap ignition parts for my cj(bought generic low-cost parts and it really cost me in the long run)

And just by coincidence you have the crappiest control module they ever put on a jeep. I am wondering if the parts house can test the one you have.

 

[CoreyYoungCj577]

Have you checked you ignition module? you mentioned that you did a tune-up a few days before, did you change the module? The reason that i ask is last spring i did a routine tune-up (jeep was running great just normal preventive maint.) changed plugs,wires,rotor,cap and module and after going to work a few times it started running like. I just thought i had gotten some bad gas at wal-mart. so i pumped the gas out and put it in the tractor. I cleared the lines and put fresh gas no change Then i decided to look at the plugs they were all fouled but #1????? Checked spark it was weak, put old coil back on no change????? put old moldule back and bingo it ran fine Took the new module back and had it tested :down::down:. the parts house replaced it, but i had them test it first and after testing six new modules and all of them failed i got my money back and went to napa and got a module. no more cheap ignition parts for my cj(bought generic low-cost parts and it really cost me in the long run)

No i didnt put a new module on, just plugs,wires,cap,rotor. All my plugs were carbon coated, i dont know what you consider fouled because all the gaps are still fine on my plugs they just had carbon on them so, i could always try a new module but im not 100% that would fix it because like i said everything was running fine after i did the tune up, then the day after the drive, IT did start just ran like and had NO throttle response at all.

 

[TDHofstetter]

What would be the other problem if it is in time? and i really am interested to know how to tell lol.

I just meant that if it's in time, there's no need to replace the timing chain & sprockets unless the chain's pretty loose & stretched... and then only because it should be done. If it's still in time, the timing chain definitely isn't the problem.

You ready for a long download? You'll want this. It's not precisely for that year, but it covers a lot of pertinent ground... and the specs (especially engine specs) are nearly 100% all common:

http://www.civilianjeep.info/84-86FSM/CJ-FSM-84to86.pdf

EDIT: Dang. Gotta' copy/paste that link. It won't work to click on it.

 

[TDHofstetter]

No i didnt put a new module on, just plugs,wires,cap,rotor. All my plugs were carbon coated, i dont know what you consider fouled because all the gaps are still fine on my plugs they just had carbon on them so, i could always try a new module but im not 100% that would fix it because like i said everything was running fine after i did the tune up, then the day after the drive, IT did start just ran like poopie and had NO throttle response at all.

If they were black & sooty, that says there's too much gas floating around in there. "Fouled" generally means the carbon has built up until the plug looks like it's been dipped in the manure heap, usually bridged across the gap with carbon. I've seen 'em so bad I had to scrape before I could find the outer (arm) electrode.

 

[CoreyYoungCj577]

I just meant that if it's in time, there's no need to replace the timing chain & sprockets unless the chain's pretty loose & stretched... and then only because it should be done. If it's still in time, the timing chain definitely isn't the problem.

You ready for a long download? You'll want this. It's not precisely for that year, but it covers a lot of pertinent ground... and the specs (especially engine specs) are nearly 100% all common:

http://www.civilianjeep.info/84-86FSM/CJ-FSM-84to86.pdf

EDIT: Dang. Gotta' copy/paste that link. It won't work to click on it.

I do appreciate all the help and time guys, BTW i cant download that, i do have a chiltons for CJ's so i dont know if that will help much but, when i pull the timing cover i will check for slop and check for the marks to see where they are at and if they are all on and tight i guess i will go to the module, im just a little tight on money so it may have to wait, i just hope the weather stays nice, because then if i get bored i can pull it out and check it and leave it off untill i have the money.

 

[CoreyYoungCj577]

If they were black & sooty, that says there's too much gas floating around in there. "Fouled" generally means the carbon has built up until the plug looks like it's been dipped in the manure heap, usually bridged across the gap with carbon. I've seen 'em so bad I had to scrape before I could find the outer (arm) electrode.

Mine when i had pulled them up had "carbon" but there was nothing bridged across the gap and it was only a light coating enough to darken them, and i cleaned them up and put 4 back in and two brand new ones. I pulled two today when my dad was up here and he said none of them were fouled just coated with carbon.

 

[IOPort51]

No i didnt put a new module on, just plugs,wires,cap,rotor. All my plugs were carbon coated, i dont know what you consider fouled because all the gaps are still fine on my plugs they just had carbon on them so, i could always try a new module but im not 100% that would fix it because like i said everything was running fine after i did the tune up, then the day after the drive, IT did start just ran like poopie and had NO throttle response at all.

Module's go all at once they work and then they don't work and some times they work for a while again, You also have a sensor in the distributer that can just quit. call the parts house and see if it can be tested before you buy a new one.

 

[TDHofstetter]

The timing marks on those sprockets - when you get the cover off - should be in a straight line. You'll need to bump the starter (or turn the engine by hand) until the CAMSHAFT sprocket is turned the right way, with a straight line running from the center of the camshaft straight through the mark on the camshaft sprocket to the center of the crankshaft. It will cross the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket, too, so all four reference points are in one continuous line cam-mark-mark-crank.

Note that the camshaft sprocket could possibly be in either of two orientations when the crankshaft sprocket is lined up correctly, since the camshaft turns once for every two crankshaft revolutions. It's better, then, to get the camshaft sprocket lined up right first - that'll force the crankshaft alignment unless the chain's jumped a tooth.

If the chain HAS jumped, it'll be pretty obvious. The crankshaft sprocket only has 18 teeth, 20 degrees apart. It's not like "plus or minus a degree", either it's clearly on it or it's clearly not.

To check it for looseness, select a spot between the sprockets and push it in (across the sprockets, not toward the engine) as far as you reasonably can. Now pull it out as far as you can, like you were trying to make it into a circle. If it deflects more than about 1/2" total, it's time to replace it. A fresh chain will have some deflection, so don't get into a great rush to replace it if you can get 3/8" deflection.

 

[CoreyYoungCj577]

Module's go all at once they work and then they don't work and some times they work for a while again, You also have a sensor in the distributer that can just quit. call the parts house and see if it can be tested before you buy a new one.

I will if i do have to go that route after i check the timing chain. The manager at Car Quest here takes care of me after the years of buying parts we have a pretty good friendship lol we bull alot hell ill go there just to talk with him.

 

[TDHofstetter]

Let's see if I can do this...

Yep.

 

[IOPort51]

I am going to suggest you look at the module first.
You don't have to replace any gaskets if it is good and It would be a good idea to check the ground, it has to have a good one and I bet yours is mounted on a fiberglass fender so it should have a ground wire from the battery negative terminal.
After spending 15 or 20 minutes doing the module check you can spend time with the alternator and the chain cover. Do the easy stuff first.

 

[CoreyYoungCj577]

I am going to suggest you look at the module first.
You don't have to replace any gaskets if it is good and It would be a good idea to check the ground, it has to have a good one and I bet yours is mounted on a fiberglass fender so it should have a ground wire from the battery negative terminal.
After spending 15 or 20 minutes doing the module check you can spend time with the alternator and the chain cover. Do the easy stuff first.

You are right about module being on the "glass fender" its on the passenger side fender and the ground is on the engine block so i know its good lol i can take the module down to a few local parts stores and see if they will check it because that will only take me about 5 mins to take it off and 10 mins to have them check it so, i will do that first, since like you said its EASY

 

[Cheepjeep85]

if it where me and i had the timing cover off i'd go ahead and replace the timing set. mine is an 85 and had a nylon cam gear and it had a lot of play in it. replacing it can't hurt you at all and if you do you know it'll be in time. pull your valve cover and put the engine on tdc both valves for the #1 cyl should be closed depending on how bad it jumped one might be open or half way there. if everything checks out i would try resetting the distributor. the easiest way to tell if you have spark is to pull the #1 plug put the wire back on it and ground the plug to the block, have someone "bump" start it several rotations while you watch it

 

[TDHofstetter]

You are right about module being on the "glass fender" its on the passenger side fender and the ground is on the engine block so i know its good lol i can take the module down to a few local parts stores and see if they will check it because that will only take me about 5 mins to take it off and 10 mins to have them check it so, i will do that first, since like you said its EASY

Never assume. Just the presence of the ground wire doesn't necessarily mean you have a good ground. If there's corrosion within either connection, the ground can LOOK good but still be very, very bad.

If you have a meter, check the ground with it - measure resistance between, say, the alternator body and the module's body. You should read virtually zero resistance. If you don't have a meter, at least loosen & clean up the two connections if they're not bright & shiny inside.

 

[CoreyYoungCj577]

Never assume. Just the presence of the ground wire doesn't necessarily mean you have a good ground. If there's corrosion within either connection, the ground can LOOK good but still be very, very bad.

If you have a meter, check the ground with it - measure resistance between, say, the alternator body and the module's body. You should read virtually zero resistance. If you don't have a meter, at least loosen & clean up the two connections if they're not bright & shiny inside.

Well for a fact I KNOW the ground is good because the first thing i did when i wanted to get this bad boy started and drove off the trailer, was went down to wally world picked up a fresh battery,terminals, and wires and wired it all in myself, so im not worried about the terminals or grounds or anything of that sort. As far as a meter i do not have one im what we like to call "short of tools" i know what my birthday present is gonna be, but thats not till june

 

[BrockGrimes]

Radio shack sells a nice little multimeter for like $20

This little guy:

 

[TDHofstetter]

Harbor Freight has one for $8... sometimes they go on sale for as little as $3. The probes are cheesey, but ya can't beat the price. They're as accurate as a Fluke or Beckman, too.

 

[IOPort51]

Well for a fact I KNOW the ground is good because the first thing i did when i wanted to get this bad boy started and drove off the trailer, was went down to wally world picked up a fresh battery,terminals, and wires and wired it all in myself, so im not worried about the terminals or grounds or anything of that sort. As far as a meter i do not have one im what we like to call "short of tools" i know what my birthday present is gonna be, but thats not till june

Just so I have this straight, Wally world sold you a wire that goes from the case of the control module to the block??

 

[Old Dog]

Just so I have this straight, Wally world sold you a wire that goes from the case of the control module to the block??

im what we like to call "short of tools"

If you own a cj you have to own a multimeter.
corey you should NOT buy wire and terminals at wally world.
Buy high quality at a good store, after all the jeep needs 12 volts to run.

 

[IOPort51]

Harbor Freight has one for $8... sometimes they go on sale for as little as $3. The probes are cheesey, but ya can't beat the price. They're as accurate as a Fluke or Beckman, too.

the ones from HF are kind of cool, you can even check the "polarity of transistors if that is something important to you. The down side is you have to remember to turn it off.