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258 4.0 Head Swap Results

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258 4.0 Head Swap Results
<div class="bbWrapper">When i do start working on this jeep i will start a build thread <img src="/community/smilies/beerchug.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":chug:" title="Chug :chug:" data-shortname=":chug:" /> LOTS of pictures too <img src="/community/smilies/punk.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":punk:" title="Punk :punk:" data-shortname=":punk:" /><img src="/community/smilies/punk.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":punk:" title="Punk :punk:" data-shortname=":punk:" /></div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 4013" data-quote="CJim7" data-source="post: 94773" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=94773" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-94773">CJim7 said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> I put about 20,000 miles on mine before the motor regrettably blew a piston skirt (I had a spare 401 lying around, no rebuild on the 6)<br /> <br /> I never ran into ANY issues running this engine. I was pushing 11-11:5 compression with the flattys and never once encountered the dreaded pinging associated with high compression and regular gas.<br /> <br /> Likewise, the previous misinformation can just be thrown out the window. The valvetrain between the 4.0 and 4.2 is identical except for the valves themselves and there may be a slight variance with the pushrods, but I&#039;ve ran into that between different years of 4.2...so that&#039;s not an issue. The rockers and pivots are all the same. Springs...no issue.<br /> <br /> I used a TFI ignition, so I didnt get the test the &quot;theory&quot; of worn dizzy gears.<br /> <br /> Pound for pound, and dollar for doller I think this is the best modification that can ever be done to the 4.2. It makes it a whole different engine <img src="/community/smilies/notworthy.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":notworthy:" title="Notworthy :notworthy:" data-shortname=":notworthy:" /> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> NO PROBLEMS to report I still swear by it being the best thing I ever did!</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">I am planning to begin this swap soon. I figure it should cost about $2500 with doing some maintenance. The block I was planning to put the 4.0 head was a 1973. While doing research I noticed the push rods in the 1973 4.2 are solid where newer 4.2L engines have hollow push rods. I believe this might cause an oiling problem because the 4.0L uses hollow push rods to oil the head. I would assume the 4.0 head gets oiled from the push rods. If this is true I would need to use a newer block to swap the 4.0 head onto. I noticed the 4.2 has hollow push rods beginning in 1974. I have not looked at push rods yes though, according to parts at rock auto the push rods are solid not hollow as the 4.0 push rods are.<br /> <br /> Is my concern justified? <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f615.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":confused:" title="Confused :confused:" data-smilie="5"data-shortname=":confused:" /><br /> <br /> I think I am going to play it safe and buy a early 1980&#039;s block. I know those blocks have hollow push rods.</div>
 
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<div class="bbWrapper">My 73 rods were hollow. Where did you hear that? How would the oil get up there then?</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">The older inline 6 cylinders did have solid push rods and a rocker oiler under the valve cover from what I&#039;ve read. I&#039;m pretty sure that they still had hydraulic lifters though, so I&#039;d guess that you could switch to hollow push rods and it&#039;d work fine with a late model 4.0 head, but do the research to make sure before throwing it all together!</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 209" data-quote="73CJ" data-source="post: 111118" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=111118" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-111118">73CJ said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> My 73 rods were hollow. Where did you hear that? How would the oil get up there then? </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> <br /> He might have a 232 instead of a 258? It&#039;s been a long time since I read about what works with what for a 4.0 swap, so I&#039;m only 100% certain about the swap I did. <br /> <br /> By the way, back to the original subject, I&#039;ve put a whole lot more miles(around 20k or so) on my 258 with the 4.0 head and it&#039;s still purring like a kitten with a nice quiet valve train. <img src="/community/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /></div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">I&#039;m collecting parts now to do this swap. Got my exhaust manifold. Still trying to track down a head, considering the clearwater head with the welded water holes. Seems like it may be cheaper after the $200 junkyard head then getting the head rebuilt. Valve cover will be the easy part to get. I&#039;m trying to figure out if I want the original cover or get the aluminum blue cover to match the engine.<br /> <br /> I wanted to add this bit of infor for the spacers for the different size bolt holes, I didn&#039;t see this in here so here it is. Heres a link for 1/2&quot; spacers for the 7/16&quot; block holes. Summit racing has them. Part #TFS-51400419 <br /> <a href="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51400419/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.summitracing.com%2Fparts%2FTFS-51400419%2F&amp;hash=7ef24b484bd057365e76958f35d2768e" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400419 - Trick Flow® Head Bolt Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com</a></div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 6238" data-quote="alaskaviper" data-source="post: 113485" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=113485" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-113485">alaskaviper said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> I&#039;m collecting parts now to do this swap. Got my exhaust manifold. Still trying to track down a head, considering the clearwater head with the welded water holes. Seems like it may be cheaper after the $200 junkyard head then getting the head rebuilt. Valve cover will be the easy part to get. I&#039;m trying to figure out if I want the original cover or get the aluminum blue cover to match the engine.<br /> <br /> I wanted to add this bit of infor for the spacers for the different size bolt holes, I didn&#039;t see this in here so here it is. Heres a link for 1/2&quot; spacers for the 7/16&quot; block holes. Summit racing has them. Part #TFS-51400419 <br /> <a href="http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51400419/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.summitracing.com%2Fparts%2FTFS-51400419%2F&amp;hash=7ef24b484bd057365e76958f35d2768e" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400419 - Trick Flow® Head Bolt Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> <br /> I take it you don&#039;t have a pick n pull type junk yard near by? I nabbed my new head, valve cover, and even the push rods and head bolts really cheap by pulling it myself from a 1995 Cherokee. <br /> <br /> Thanks for posting the link for the spacers. Fortunately I didn&#039;t need them since my block is a 1979 that takes 1/2&quot; head bolts. <br /> <br /> If you don&#039;t go with the welded water jackets, you&#039;ll be fine with the JB Weld method as long as you clean the jackets good before applying the JB. Mine hasn&#039;t leaked a drop ofter all of these miles. <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f642.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-smilie="1"data-shortname=":)" /></div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 2176" data-quote="Rescue Diver" data-source="post: 113489" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=113489" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-113489">Rescue Diver said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> I take it you don&#039;t have a pick n pull type junk yard near by? I nabbed my new head, valve cover, and even the push rods and head bolts really cheap by pulling it myself from a 1995 Cherokee. </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> <br /> We do have one but they want $200 for head and $50 for cover. After I get the head rebuilt, I might as well order the clearwater one and be cheaper with welded ports.<br /> <br /> <blockquote data-attributes="member: 2176" data-quote="Rescue Diver" data-source="post: 113489" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=113489" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-113489">Rescue Diver said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> Thanks for posting the link for the spacers. Fortunately I didn&#039;t need them since my block is a 1979 that takes 1/2&quot; head bolts. </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> <br /> It took me a bit of searching to find these so I figured anybody planning to do the swap looking at this thread will now have more info in one spot.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 6238" data-quote="alaskaviper" data-source="post: 113543" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=113543" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-113543">alaskaviper said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> We do have one but they want $200 for head and $50 for cover. After I get the head rebuilt, I might as well order the clearwater one and be cheaper with welded ports.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> It took me a bit of searching to find these so I figured anybody planning to do the swap looking at this thread will now have more info in one spot. </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> <br /> They want $250 for a head and valve cover even though you would be pulling the parts yourself??? WOW!!! I only paid $70 for both of them plus the 4.0 push rods and head bolts. I think I&#039;d be looking for another source too! Maybe you can find someone parting a 1992-1999 Cherokee on Craigslist? Keep in mind that 1996-1999 castings flow just as good as the 1992-1995 but they don&#039;t have the temp sender hole behind the valve cover drilled.<br /> <br /> Don&#039;t forget that the rockers aren&#039;t adjustable, so you&#039;ll need pushrods of the correct length. I found the stock 4.0 pushrods to be the correct length to give the perfect amount of lifter preload. My stock 1979 258 pushrods were just a tiny bit too short.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">Yeah I would have to pull the head myself. I deen looking on craigslist but timing never works out. I seen a bundh of 4.0L engine for cheap. Now that I decided to do the swap I can&#039;t find any. And I&#039;m in Hawaii so its a limited search area..<br /> <br /> How did you go about measuring for the correct pushrods? I&#039;m not to sure on that or if theres anything special for putting the rocker arms on.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 6238" data-quote="alaskaviper" data-source="post: 113549" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=113549" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-113549">alaskaviper said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> Yeah I would have to pull the head myself. I deen looking on craigslist but timing never works out. I seen a bundh of 4.0L engine for cheap. Now that I decided to do the swap I can&#039;t find any. And I&#039;m in Hawaii so its a limited search area..<br /> <br /> How did you go about measuring for the correct pushrods? I&#039;m not to sure on that or if theres anything special for putting the rocker arms on. </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote>I don&#039;t remember the exact amount of preload that the lifters call for, but with adjustable rockers, it&#039;s between 1/2 and 1 rotation of the nut, so it&#039;s not much. Hydraulic lifters are pretty forgiving and will allow and compansate for different amounts of preload, as long as it&#039;s not too much. If the push rods are too shorts, you&#039;ll have a lot of clatter. <br /> <br /> The rockers just bolt directly to the head. They can be shimmed higher with spacers to compensate for a slightly too long push rod, but if the push rod is too short, there&#039;s no way to adjust the rocker down to make up for it.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">So I finnally got most of my parts together to get started on the swap. I do have one question though. We I was getting the head, the guy said it was #7120 but when I got it, it was # 0630. I alrady got a valve cover from a 92 XJ and was wondering if anybody knows if that valve cover will fit on the 0630 head? When you look up gaskets, thay stop at 95 and have a different one listed for newer years. So either I go and buy another valve cover from a new XJ from the junkyard (I&#039;m sure they won&#039;t take the old one back in exchange) or use the 92. Any suggestions?</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 6238" data-quote="alaskaviper" data-source="post: 114845" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=114845" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-114845">alaskaviper said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> So I finnally got most of my parts together to get started on the swap. I do have one question though. We I was getting the head, the guy said it was #7120 but when I got it, it was # 0630. I alrady got a valve cover from a 92 XJ and was wondering if anybody knows if that valve cover will fit on the 0630 head? When you look up gaskets, thay stop at 95 and have a different one listed for newer years. So either I go and buy another valve cover from a new XJ from the junkyard (I&#039;m sure they won&#039;t take the old one back in exchange) or use the 92. Any suggestions? </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> Your 0630 head is pretty much the same as a 7120 except it probably doesn&#039;t have the sender hole drilled behind the valve cover, and the exaust ports look a little different, but they flow just about as good, and should take the same gaskets as far as I know.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 1193" data-quote="IOPort51" data-source="post: 72411" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=72411" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-72411">IOPort51 said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> I would too, no question, but when we do multiple changes it is not possible to attribute the performance to any one thing. <br /> <br /> I don&#039;t have fancy test equipment but I do have a hill. It&#039;s about 1/8 mile 20 degrees and paved. I start at the bottom in 2nd gear and time the distance with a stop watch. As long as I am doing one thing at a time I can get a pretty good idea how much bang I got for my buck. We need to establish a personal constant to measure against.<br /> <br /> I am not saying the head swap is a bad idea, it is a good one. I had a cracked 4.2 head and this was the very best solution. I am saying there is a lot of mist and smoke blowing around this and a lot of other modifications because we can not document the results in measurable quantity.<img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f60e.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" data-smilie="6"data-shortname=":cool:" /> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote><br /> I was upset it was the 0630 because I wanted to use the same temp sender but after careful inspection my 0630 head DOES have the hole for the temp sender. Good news. I went ahead and got a valve cover from junk yard for the same head just so it&#039;s correct. <br /> <br /> Now I&#039;m trying to figure out the EGR stuff between intake and exhaust. Or get the Clifford intake and exhaust? I have howell tbi so not sure what will be best. Oh decisions. What sucks being military is I don&#039;t know what state I&#039;ll move to and emission standard change between states.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">Don&#039;t forget you have to run the 4.0 exhaust now, but that&#039;s a good thing.<img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f609.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-smilie="2"data-shortname=";)" /></div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/85YellowCJ7/40HeadSwap#" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=https%3A%2F%2Fpicasaweb.google.com%2F85YellowCJ7%2F40HeadSwap%23&amp;hash=01066f55957ade7050bf901b5ba832b8" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">https://picasaweb.google.com/85YellowCJ7/40HeadSwap#</a><br /> <br /> YELLOW85CJ7 did a very cool thing and mounted his EGR to a 4.0 exhaust manifold. Here are his pictures and below is the thread he talked about it in.<br /> <br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/4-2-intake-4-0-head-14083/" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jeep-cj.com%2Fforums%2Ff2%2F4-2-intake-4-0-head-14083%2F&amp;hash=0b38764ddb2e83e1d3e0df07fcbbcfa9" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/4-2-intake-4-0-head-14083/</a><br /> <br /> I am sure he would tell you all about the adventure if you sent him a PM.<br /> <br /> If I ever find it convenient to pull the manifolds, this is going to happen to mine.<br /> <br /> <br /> One more thing, one of the guys actually did a dyno on a head swap and got about 35 HP gain.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 2176" data-quote="Rescue Diver" data-source="post: 111195" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=111195" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-111195">Rescue Diver said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> He might have a 232 instead of a 258? </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote><br /> No it&#039;s a 258. Hollow push rods. Being 2nd owner for 36 years, motor was never cracked before I did. So they absolutely hollow.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">Well I finished my head swap finally. So here&#039;s what I went with: 0630 head, 4.2L pushrods, JBA Header, new cat and flowmaster 40 series muffler - 2.5&quot; pipe. with a howell TBI (was installed before the swap).<br /> <br /> Heres a link to a small video with how it sounds.<br /> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42G5HTujOo0" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D42G5HTujOo0&amp;hash=c84528921fb77f851c83708fcc2ccb0a" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">258 w/ 4.0 head - YouTube</a><br /> <br /> Thanks for all the help guys.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 6238" data-quote="alaskaviper" data-source="post: 118379" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=118379" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-118379">alaskaviper said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> Well I finished my head swap finally. So here&#039;s what I went with: 0630 head, 4.2L pushrods, JBA Header, new cat and flowmaster 40 series muffler - 2.5&quot; pipe. with a howell TBI (was installed before the swap).<br /> <br /> Heres a link to a small video with how it sounds.<br /> <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42G5HTujOo0" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D42G5HTujOo0&amp;hash=c84528921fb77f851c83708fcc2ccb0a" rel="nofollow ugc noopener">258 w/ 4.0 head - YouTube</a><br /> <br /> Thanks for all the help guys. </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote><br /> Did you you call Howells up to see if you need a new program burned? Would be interesting to see if it needs one or not. On my motor I will be running a 4.0 head and different cam I call Howells they told me I will have to get a chip burned. I don&#039;t know if the cam and head combo is why or it might be the cam that made it need the chip.</div>
 
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