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4.2 motor build

4.2 motor build
Some pictures to wet the appetite. :D

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Called clifford performance today they dont have any cams in stock :censored::censored: it's been 2 1/2 months some reason they cant get cam blanks so they can grind me a cam!!!! Cant wait any longer!! SO I ordered a comp cam that's pretty comparable to the clifford cam.
 
Took the die grinder to my manifold today. yep right into the water jacket it went. No big deal I have a buddy with a tig he wielded it up good as new.
 
Are those springs from the comp cam kit? I recently installed a comp cam kit and the HP springs will not work on a 4.0 head. I left the stock springs in place and haven't had a problem. I have a set of HP springs for a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l head with retainers and locks (brand new) if anyone is interested.

Also be sure to check the preload on your lifters with your pushrods. You should have .050-.070" preload. I bought longer pushrods for mine.
 
I didnt order a cam kit with the cam they didnt have the lifters i was wanting to run and the timing chain/gear set i wanted. No those springs are from mopar performance they are for a high lift cam. The specs on the springs is single spring w/damper1.42"OD .400"/.525" lift So no coil bind with them. You need to check your stock springs with them fully compressed they should have 0.60 of clearance or you will have premature cam wear or a broken spring. As for the preload on the lifters I'm using it should be 0.20 to 0.60 anything over that you will have clatter.
 
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Are those springs from the comp cam kit? I recently installed a comp cam kit and the HP springs will not work on a 4.0 head. I left the stock springs in place and haven't had a problem. /QUOTE]
What cam did you go with? Here are the part numbers for the springs P5249464, retainers P4452032, and valve locks P4529218 :chug:
 
I used Comp Cam 235. Good bottom end power and mid range.

Are those valve spring part #s from Mopar? Where did you get them? What was the price for them?

I had lots of valve clatter at first. The pushrods were way too short. I used Sealed Power rods for a 95 Cherokee 4.0. They measure 9.696" and are .100" longer than my original. Got them at Napa for $3 each.
Thanks, Rob
 
I used Comp Cam 235. Good bottom end power and mid range.

Are those valve spring part #s from Mopar? Where did you get them? What was the price for them?

I had lots of valve clatter at first. The pushrods were way too short. I used Sealed Power rods for a 95 Cherokee 4.0. They measure 9.696" and are .100" longer than my original. Got them at Napa for $3 each.
Thanks, Rob

Those part numbers are mopar I ordered them through summit. Did alot of reserch on this because they don't make that high of a lift valve springs for the 4.0 head. Took some measuring found out the 5.7 springs would work with the retainers and valve locks. Here are the prices on them.
P5249464 valve springs $11.99 a piece
P4529218 valve locks pack of 8 $21.99
P4452032 valve spring retainers $9.99 a piece*
 
Hope that helps you out. What the the specs on that cam?
 
OK Ladys and Gents Im not very happy with my head work!!! I had a little time on my hands tonight decided to install my new valve springs on the 4.0 head. I dont know what to say so i will just post pictures. I wont name the machinist as of yet.
 
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Had a few minutes to work on my motor tonight. Installed the pickup tube on the oil pump then on the block, set the cam in the block and stripped the paint off the oil pan then painted it.
 
Called Howells ordered my new programed chip $AMC 150 Should be here the end of the week. Update on the head mechanist hasn't called me back about the shotty valve job.b
 
OK Ladys and Gents Im not very happy with my head work!!! I had a little time on my hands tonight decided to install my new valve springs on the 4.0 head. I dont know what to say so i will just post pictures. I wont name the machinist as of yet.

Coldair,

:)What is it that's wrong with the valve job?
:D:D:D:D
 
If you look close at the one seat it has a big ding out of it. The cut on the other that's supposed to be a 3 angle valve job it's a 2 1/2 angle valve job lol
 
If you look close at the one seat it has a big ding out of it. The cut on the other that's supposed to be a 3 angle valve job it's a 2 1/2 angle valve job lol

Coldair

:):)I think your just fine................do you see that small cut near the top of the combustion chamber?..........that thin line that may be 1/16 wide? That is your valve seat............the other two cuts below that towards the valve guide are the other two angles cut to improve flow in the port..............Quite honestly a 3 angle valve job on a non-high performance engine is barely noticeable.
The reason we in the racing community use that is to improve port speed / flow from the port to the combustion chamber. We also sometimes use an interference angle at the seat whereby the seat and the valve are ground at two different angles which makes that seat footprint even that much smaller.

If you wanted to check your seats correctly......take some blue Dykem layout machinist dye and apply it to the seat and then put a small amount of the finest valve lapping compound on the valve seat and spin the valve with a lapping tool. There is your seat...............
:D:D:D:D
 
I took some crimson blue applied it to the valve the nick is right on the edge of the seat. only thing I worrie about is burning a valve plus I payed good money for the head work.
 
I took some crimson blue applied it to the valve the nick is right on the edge of the seat. only thing I worrie about is burning a valve plus I payed good money for the head work.

Coldair

:)I would look at that again with some dye..........the seat line I'm talking about is above that area where that nick is.............do you see that fine narrow shinny line near the top next to the combustion chamber.........that should be the seat.
:D:D:D:D
 
Prussian blue is what I ment not crimson blur not even sure where I got that lol long day so far.
 

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