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4.2 motor build

4.2 motor build
Coldair

:)I would look at that again with some dye..........the seat line I'm talking about is above that area where that nick is.............do you see that fine narrow shinny line near the top next to the combustion chamber.........that should be the seat.
:D:D:D:D

Tarry I will look at that agian this time I will use some dye like you suggested. It might be ok I was kind of pissed at the time and was trying to blow off some steam by working on my jeep ( always helps ) thanks for the help
 
Tarry I will look at that agian this time I will use some dye like you suggested. It might be ok I was kind of pissed at the time and was trying to blow off some steam by working on my jeep ( always helps ) thanks for the help

Coldair ,

:)No Problem I can surely understand the frustration...........Just take another look and apply some blue dycom or similar product to the seat and let dry. Then either with some fine valve lapping compound applied to the valve ( just a little) or perhaps even dry without compound spin the valve slowly with just a lite pressure and it will show you on the seat where its sealing.......Obviously we like to see a concentric line around the seat that has been worn off by the spinning valve.
Let us know if that fixes your problem....................
:D:D:D:D
 
Pulled the valve out of the head tonight im not sure how i missed this but i did.
 
Pulled the valve out of the head tonight im not sure how i missed this but i did.

:)I am assuming that is Good news now?

:D:D:D:D
 
Yes and no the seat looks ok but the valve has a nick in it :(
 
Yes and no the seat looks ok but the valve has a nick in it :(

Coldair,

:)Yes I do see that little nick...........get some dycom that is truly the only way to see if it's effecting the seal or not..........short of doing a liquid pressure test in that port...............is that the only valve that has a problem?
Did your machinist number the valves to the cylinders so you can match up what cylinder that came from?
:D:D:D:D
 
The machinist didnt number the valves all the valves are brand new. I didnt use dykem to check, I did use a sharpie to check to see where it was sealing. (the valve and seat looked good ) I know im going to get flamed for that but it works good.
 
The machinist didnt number the valves all the valves are brand new. I didnt use dykem to check, I did use a sharpie to check to see where it was sealing. (the valve and seat looked good ) I know im going to get flamed for that but it works good.

Coldair,

:)If it now looks good and your happy with the seal.........its better to find out now before you get into it with your machinist. Put it together and run it!
:D:D:D:D
 
Well back to work on the motor :)
 
Got a few things done on the motor tonight. installed timing gears, chain, had to build a bolt for the cam gear ( New timing chain/gear is thicker so old bolt wouldnt work ) installed timing cover
 
FYI there are differences in a serpintine belt and a V belt water pump. Left is the V belt water pump, right is a serpintine belt pump. Looks like I need a new water pump :(
 
Got a few things done on the motor tonight. installed timing gears, chain, had to build a bolt for the cam gear ( New timing chain/gear is thicker so old bolt wouldnt work ) installed timing cover


Would the timing chain cover not fit all the way on because of that bolt?
 
Would the timing chain cover not fit all the way on because of that bolt?

Timing cover has a little "nipple" right where the bolt is for the cam, The factory bolt has the center concaved. I had to drill the center of the bolt out so the nipple wouldn't hit. Also had to cut a 2 inch bolt down to 1.62 inch to make up for the thicker gear set.
 
I had the same problem, gear set was thicker and I couldn't get my timing chain cover on because it would hit that bolt. Just before they started machining the gear, I took another look at how my cam was sitting. Turns out they put the cam plug in too far, which stopped the cam from going in as far as it should. Popped it out, put a new plug in, and the cover went on perfect. I only had to go about an 1/8 of an inch though.
 
I checked that too it wasn't the case though. Did you have to use a different bolt?
 
Yep, same bolt. On mine, if you looked behind the cam gear, the back of the gear wasn't touching the face of the block(didn't notice it earlier). So we thought that the gear being thicker was the problem(or maybe the cam). Called the different companies involved and they all said everything should fit......but it wasn't!! Like I said, they were just going to machine the gear to make it fit before I found out the real problem.
 
What timing chain/gear did you use? I could have got away with the stock bolt but would only have 3 threads holding the gear on.
 
Chip for my Howells fuel injection showed up yesterday. New pilot bushing to adapt the ford T-18 to the motor now all I need is time to work on it.
 
Chip for my Howells fuel injection showed up yesterday. New pilot bushing to adapt the ford T-18 to the motor now all I need is time to work on it.

:)Cool..............get it running.
:D:D:D:D
 

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