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Build Thread 82 CJ7 frame swap & lift build

Build Thread 82 CJ7 frame swap & lift build
I posted this question separately mid-February and am again thankful for the help of guys I have never met. I heard back within 2 days with the info I needed and then with a great diagram that is sure to help others.

Where do the (air, temp & defrost) dash pull cables go? Specifically, which one goes to which lever on the plastic blower assembly under the dash? ........it had been a couple of years since I busted the old cables out. As far as the new cables go, two of them are the same length and the third one is longer........Thanks in advance! This is one of a handful of things I never completed once the Jeep was dune-able.

I got a response back from mtnwhlr and elwood blues that I wanted to include in my build thread.

on your pic the temp is the one on the left and the defrost is the one on the right and the air is up above and will be the longer cable. Hope this helps.

this may help too
heatercontrolsonbox.jpg

:notworthy:
 
I have been reading a lot of other posts/forums regarding the installation of Weber carburetors and how/what emissions related stuff can be deleted. I picked up the Weber 38/38 a number of months ago.

I took a lot of pictures and labeled a number of hoses. I anticipated the engine compartment to look quite a bit different, so I took a before picture where everything is still pretty much stock.

For the vacuum and emissions stuff that I am going to keep or cap, I brought home an assortment of parts to hopefully limit the number of trips to the auto parts store. I picked up a new fuel filter (which is highly recommended), a new PCV valve (the old one didn't look quite right) and was finally able to find the brass plugs that will fit the holes in the exhaust manifold after removing part of the air? system.
 
While attempting to install the carburetor and re-rout the necessary vacuum lines, there were a few different diagrams that were of help to me, besides the ones that show where all of the stuff is supposed to go from the factory.

I do not claim to have made the 2nd & 3rd pictures below and I am sorry that I do not have the originators information with the pictures. I saved them to my computer for a short time to reference (for when my internet doesn't reach out into the garage).

Once the "air injection manifold" is removed, you cannot re-use the bolts because of how they are made. I thought they were metric 14 fine threaded, but turns out it is just a 1/4 brass plug that fits them (picked up 6 last night at a local Ace Hardware store).

Also, when trying to follow Weber's directions and others online, you have to know what ported vacuum is, where the CTO valve is located (Coolant Temp override switch, threaded into the coolant passage on the drivers- side of the engine) and a number of other things. It was a good learning experience for me and I anticipate a lot more learning as I read up on how to properly tune the carb. My first picture shows the air tubes bolted to the exhaust manifold. I also labeled the CTO valve that I kept reading about.

I didn't know at first if I would be able to get rid of the CTO valve, but ended up running everything as shown on the simple schematic drawing below. I still have to bolt up the canister because I had not ever put this back on when I got the Jeep back on the road last summer.

I admit that I am learning as I go. The challenge under the hood is part of why I enjoy this, although it helps to have the anticipation of more power and improved start-ups. If worse comes to worse, I could always pay the shop nearby (who does a lot of these) to fix my mistakes- but things seem to be coming together all right so far.
 
Back to work this week as a phys. ed. teacher. I love my job, but that means I have less time to put into the Jeep, especially with a wife, two young girls and being pretty involved in our local church. My buddies have spent a few solid weeks up at Silver Lake already this summer but are up for one last fall run if I am able to get done in time to go before the end of the season.

I'm still able to make a little progress on week nights without changing into grub clothes since most of my parts at this point are either new or have been painted or powder-coated. The worst of it is the anti-seize that I get more of on my fingers than the bolt threads.

The real reason for the update is to share a nice little surprise that was waiting for me when I got home. Not sure which I was most excited to see...the tall stack of chocolate chip cookies :drool:, my custom license plate :cool: or my daughter Paige who will turn 1 this weekend :bounce:. All great to come home to! :D

My neighbor collects license plates from across the country and it started me thinking about coming up with a custom plate for my Jeep. My 2nd option was 82CJEEP but I liked how the JEEP was centered on the plate that I went with.

That is kinda funny, we both had the same idea. My plate. Nice build
 
I ordered a new $2 EGR gasket after reading for over an hour on whether or not it is a good idea to get rid of the EGR valve. I read about what it does and heard a lot of reasons/ideas/opinions on both sides of the argument.

When I got the engine running for the first time since the new carb., I sprayed around looking for vacuum leaks and the engine revved differently when I sprayed near the EGR valve. I am not sure that it is operating properly at this point so I ended up capping it off with a piece I made from a circular saw blade (someone else mentioned using one to make theirs, so I gave it a try). Once I got the new gasket, I traced it out, cut roughly around the lines then used my bench grinder and wire wheel to get it down to size and cleaned up.

Here's basically what I read in other posts about these exhaust recirculation valves- these bits and pieces come from http://www.buehlerauto.com/articles/article-egr-valve.pdf - purpose is to reduce emissions of oxides of nitrogen (NOx), a major source of air pollution...it was proven that if carbon dioxide, which is also found in exhaust gas, is added to the combustion chamber it would cool the combustion temperatures and reduce NOx gas emissions...a simple way to achieve this was to meter a certain amount of exhaust gas, or carbon dioxide back into the intake manifold under strict control...The device that performs this function is the EGR valve...If it is open at idle for instance, it will act like a giant vacuum leak and the engine will not idle or will run really rough. If it doesn't open when it is supposed to open you may experience a symptom of"pinging" since the combustion chamber temperature will be higher than normal...On vacuum operated EGR valves, the vacuum diaphragm can rupture and cause the valve to fail or, there may be a chunk of carbon logged under the seat causing it to stick open or, the vacuum hoses or sensors that operate them can fail...
 
As I mentioned in the above post, I was able to get the motor to run with the new Weber. I do not have the canister mounted, the choke wire identified or the throttle hooked up at this point, though. I started it with the choke set and let it run until I could manually work the throttle from under the hood.

I saw a picture in another forum where a guy hooked the throttle cable right up to the linkage on the back of the carb, rather than use the long rod to connect to the stock location that is below the carb. I am thinking that is must take a special adapter for the throttle cable to mount there. I am not sure though.

The new longer than stock rod does not reach the stock location even after extending it as far as I can. I read about someone else with the same problem, but I have been on so many forums lately, researching this carb, emissions delete, vacuum connections and tuning that I can't for the life of me find either of those posts.

What I am also still unsure about is which wire is supposed to connect to the choke on the new carburetor. My stock carb had an electric choke too, but the wire hasn't been hooked up since I dropped the motor back in. When we were wiring up the rear lights, it appeared that the back-up lights were on the same circuit- and when I put it in reverse, the fuse would blow. I am hoping two problems get fixed when I figure this out.

There was a wire connected to the front of the Carter, which I have seen labeled as solenoid, but I am guessing this isn't the correct choke wire. I read that it needs to have 12 volts when the key is on. Maybe any wire with 12v when the key is on- will do.:confused:
 
I was able to find some pictures (1 of 5 below) to help me figure out how to hook my throttle up without using the factory bell crank. From the sounds of it, some of these brackets came in the box with the new carburetors... not with mine, but I actually had fun fabbing one up.

I have a toolbox full of medal odds & ends that may be useful in times like these. I considered it a blessing that a thick, pre-bent, pre-drilled bracket happened to be available. Two of the holes were the exact size and spacing and the other hole just needed to be squared off.

The next 4 pictures show the progress from the bracket I found to getting it shaped and welded and painted to stay. I gave the adapter blocks under the carb a little sanding and put some grease between the gaskets as the directions stated, so I am hoping when my new throttle cable comes, it will be good to go.
 
I also have a box of odds and ends that i have been saving for years. I'm always surprised at what i can come up with out of it when i need something. I call it my magic box.
Keep up the good work.
 
Once the new throttle cable arrived, I was able to get it installed as well as a return spring bracket and a spring that seemed to work well. I intend on spending more time tuning it, but for now it seems to run well enough.

I put insurance on the Jeep for Saturday (3-29) because there was a local Jeep "shine & show" in Kalamazoo in the parking lot at the minor league hockey rink . At the game itself it was advertised as Jeep night. The temp was about 40 degrees but it was something I was looking forward to all week, even though I froze on the ride there and back home.

This was a first time event and there were probably about 40 Jeeps total from the time I was there between 12:30 - 4pm. (1 Wagoneer, a handful of TJ's and JK's, 2 Cherokees, 1 Grand Cherokee, a CJ5 and a handful of CJ7s, no YJs at all). I was able to talk to a few CJ7 guys to find out how they did certain things that I plan on tackling soon, so I was glad that I went. Every body was really spread out around the parking lot because although most people registered, there wasn't anything specified as far as who to park by or where.

My cousin (the TJ at the end of the 2nd picture) and I had some of the smallest tires out of all the Jeeps there. The only other Jeep that showed up with out a top (besides mine) was the orange CJ, but it was trailered there.

The last 2 pictures looked like a CJ7 from afar, but it was more of a buggy with panels riveted to the home-built frame and tub. There was very little left the was actual "Jeep." It was cool, don't get me wrong.

JCR Offroad (a Kalamazoo fabrication shop) was there with a couple of Jeeps to display their parts as well as a few other vendors and the local Jeep club (Sundowners of Kalamazoo) handing out information on how to get involved locally.
 
I was getting ready to leave around 3:30 (my daughter's birthday party was from 5-7 and I was already getting a little flack for being at a Jeep show) and they asked if I was going to stick around for the game. I wasn't planning on it, but they said they picked my Jeep for "best in show" and had to come back and ride out on the ice during intermission.

I laughed in disbelief. There were a few 50K Jeeps at the show and many way more trail-worthy Jeeps than mine. I don't know why they chose mine, but something about it, they liked, I guess.

That night there were a total of 7 Jeeps invited to ride out on the ice. The first three were JK's (2 of which were built up by JCR Offroad), a Jeep Grand Cherokee (selected to show that there are also other types of Jeeps), and then there was my CJ, the Sundowners "club Jeep" and the Jeep buggy that spun a few donuts for the fans.

They had a "trophy" made by JCR Offroad and handed me an envelope with other gift certificates from the vendors. I had my cousins come with me to take pictures and prove to my family and to you guys that this all really did happen.

It was an understatement to say that my Jeep wasn't "best of show" compared to the other sweet Jeeps there that day. I am proud of how it is turning out but the other guys had theirs better accessorized, beefed up, more horsepower and bigger tires. The value in the show for me was more about getting to see what other guys did to theirs and making connections with a few of them. I plan to join up with the Sundowners and look forward to what I can contribute as I know they will be helpful as I continue with my build- similar to how it is on this forum.

I just wanted to share the excitement with y'all as you've seen the work that went into the build and many times helped me get some things figured out, whether by writing back or by me reading many of the posts related to what I need to figure out.
 
One can look at your jeep and know why they picked it. Not knocking those other guys ,but knowing what we know and what you have done….. Hands down partner! Very nice jeep… getting flack for being at a jeep show, lmao… imagine that. Hope your daughter had a amazing Birthday!

sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD
 
As I mentioned earlier, I got the new Weber 38 on and hooked up to the best of my ability and it seemed to run well without any tuning. I did turn the idle screw up a little, because it was idling at about 500 rpms. I hope to take it somewhere and get it looked at before the start of the summer to see if I have all the vacuum and necessary emissions stuff routed properly and tuned, if necessary.

I took a picture of all the stuff I removed while swapping carbs and deleting some of the emissions stuff as well as the linkages that I didn't need.

I also bought a used canister bracket off of ebay to mount my charcoal canister back up to the firewall. I tried to make my own, but after trying for a couple of hours and not being satisfied, I bought one that had been por-15d for $16.

I had a bulb out in the dash and needed to get the light on my tach working as well, so I messed around for a while last week and got those fixed. A little progress at a time...
 
A week ago Saturday I was at Belle Tire helping someone out and the guy behind the counter said that I had not been in there in a while. Just for fun, I had him run me a quote for the tires I would buy, if I had the money, and he printed me off a slip for a set of 33 x 12.5 x 15's - the size I wanted to be at.

NEW tires weren't in the budget (at $900), but the next day I looked on Craigslist for that same size and happened to come across a set of General Grabber AT2 that the seller claimed to have 95% tread (practically new) mounted on aluminum 15x10 Ultra rims that would fit my Jeep or an F150.

They were listed under collectibles as 33x12.50x15. My guess was when people searched for 33" tires they were not seeing what he had posted because of the category and no spaces between the numbers.

Seller was asking $500 but went down to $400 when I asked about only buying the tires- he didn't want to bother with the rims, he said. I wasn't hot on the rims either, but figured I could sell them cheap.

My wife wasn't hot on me buying tires at all, but I convinced her that I wouldn't have much money in the new set after selling mine and the rims. Long story short, I was able to get $120 for my old tires within 2 hours, by the side of the road, and sold the rims on Craigslist the next day for $160.

I considered polishing up the rims and running them (it would have saved me the cost of swapping ($60) but they just weren't my style.

I sold some other stuff by the road-side over the next few days and came up with the rest of the money in no time at all.

Check out the difference in height between my old $100 Craigslist tires and the new ones that had nearly all the tread, just no warranty.

I was very excited with the upgrade and probably just as excited about the deal. I don't know if God blesses in this way with my toys, but I am giving him the glory just the same! :notworthy:
 
It was in the 60's Friday so I took the Jeep off of storage insurance and got out in the woods at my cousin's house. There are a number of dried up gullies back in his woods that will bring one of the tires off the ground when going through. We trimmed some branches back and made a short trail that will hopefully continue to get longer as we put a little more time into it.

Last year, his Jeep was still stock and would not make some of the gullies. Over the winter we put a 3" coil spring lift on and he got much taller tires, so now he doesn't have a problem getting through.

I went through the opposite way on the biggest gully and didn't make it through- instead, my rear end kept slipping further down the hill until I had my windshield pinned to the tree.

Thankfully, all I had to do was drop the windshield frame forward and back down and around the the tree.

My Transfer Case was giving me a lot of trouble getting into different gears going from the road to the trail and back to the road. Over the course of the day I spent a couple of hours trying to mess with it and figure out why it seemed to be binding so much.

I woke up with a sore neck and got on this forum where I saw a lot of guys were happy with the twin stick shifter that JB Custom Fabrication makes. It comes with the boot and I also upgraded to have the shift pattern etched into the knobs. It cost me the same as what I was going to buy and looks like a better design and construction.

As many times as I had the stock set-up on and off in the last couple of days, I am thinking I could remove it one more time with my eyes closed.
 
My old tires said 32 x 11.50 x 15 on the sidewall, but they were probably missing an inch of tread or more from wear. I didn't have any complaints with them, except that they didn't fill up my wheel well as much as I wanted. I picked them up for $100 and sold them for about the same.
 
I have been waiting over a week for the JB Customs Twin Stick Shifter. Apparently there was a delay from UPS. I was thinking for sure that I would have them before the weekend, since I ordered them on a Saturday. They came today but I probably won't be able to get to it until tomorrow.

I was expecting something a little different from the knobs, since I got the ones that I thought were engraved aluminum. I suppose I am still glad that I got them, although they cost 1/3 of the assembly ($30 upgrade). The plate that holds the boot down is stainless as well as the shifter rods themselves. There is a plastic cover on the plate until it gets assembled.

Looking forward to getting under there, hopefully one last time to take care of my shifting issue as well as seeing how well the different options work off road.
 
The shifter, the plate and the boot have been in place for a week or two, but I haven't had a chance post progress.

It took 4 tries to make a plate the right size for the existing hole and the additional cutting required for the shifter and the boot. It comes with a small stainless cover, but that only would work if you didn't have an existing hole to cover. I thought I was only going to have to make the original hole a little bigger, but I had to cut at least 3 inches back towards the center console.

The shifters work smooth now, so for that I am very pleased. I added a little originality with an old Michigan plate. My Jeep is a 1982, but in 79 they matched my "interior" and by 82 they were using tabs. As you can see on the pictures, on one side it says MICHIGAN and the other side says Great Lakes State.
 
I have been cleaning the barn out to get rid of a bunch of stuff I have been collecting. I sold a number of things by the road and some on craigslist. Supposedly, a guy is coming today to buy the AMC 304 I have had since I started the Jeep build.

Because of this, I have a little extra money burning a hole in my pocket. I have noticed my front drive-shaft is wobbly where it slides in and out, so it has been on my list to look into a Tom Woods custom shaft.

I measured the distance for a new one, made the call, paid the $250 and a week later it was delivered to my door. I upgraded to a sealed boot and bought new straps as well, so it was a little more expensive than I had first intended. Tom Woods uses a 2" tube on the manual Transmission . for my Jeep and it comes with the u-joints installed.

a little at a time...
 

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