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84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Interestingly I wasn’t sure at first if it was a good idea to tear it open to rebuild it. The front and rear shafts spun fine, but I though what the hell, I’m rebuilding everything else, why not freshen the Transfer Case up with new bearings, seals etc...
When I opened it up all the end-play shims were shredded and the shift fork pads were really worn. I’m happy I did it now.
REBUILD GUIDES:
No one rebuild guide is the key, I used a combination of three. The AutoZone guide available free online, the Moses Ludel Jeep Rebuilder’s Guide and the guide that came with my kit from Novak. There were little tricks in each that once I got to a sticking point one or the other would clarify with a picture or explanation.
The Jeep Rebuilder’s guide goes into great detail about the sealants and lubricants so I recommend using this and purchasing them before starting the reassembly to that they are all on hand.
END PLAY:
None of the guides allude to this, but it just makes sense to check end-play on the output shafts prior to sealing the bearing caps. The guides just tell you to apply the gasket or sealant and torque down the bolts and yokes and check end-play. Makes it kind of hard to re-adjust if the cap is already sealed. I did notice however, that in each case where I needed to used shims, the original number that came out was where I needed up.
A HUGE lesson learned; I didn’t have one of the bearing races driven in all the way and couldn’t get the end-play (in fact I got NO end play) on the rear output shaft once I put the cap on. I took me forever to figure this out, so don’t be dumb like me and make sure your races are all the way home. Another helpful tip for the rear output was I took the old conical roller bearing and honed out the center with a dremel tool so I could easily slide it on an off while setting the endplay. Once set, I then put the bearing cap on and drove the new bearing on.
SHIFT RAILS:
Again, the rebuild guides are not aligned here, but I found I needed to have the front bearing cap off and locked in a vise to allow access to the back end of the shift rail openings with a flat tip screwdriver to hold the poppet ball and spring down with sliding the shift rail into place. I found with as tight as the new springs were there would have been no way to do this with the cap installed. Someone on this forum was kind enough to send me this link:
I also had a hell of a time getting the front shift rail in and then couldn’t get it back out. Once I did, I noticed a small blemish on the end of the shaft. I sanded and polished it down, but word to the wise, check, any blemish with cause trouble getting this thing back in.
I finally was able to coordinate time and logistics to tow my Jeep from my parents house, where it had been laid to rest for the last 15 years while I was working all over the world, to my house so I can really start tearing into it.
Man lots of WD40 and patience on rusty bolts, an impact helps a lot as well because it shocks the bolts and rust loose on Phillips head screws as well as torx head screws put your screw driver/ bit driver in them and pound them with a hammer to break the rust loose as well as seat the bit fully in the screw
Man lots of WD40 and patience on rusty bolts, an impact helps a lot as well because it shocks the bolts and rust loose on Phillips head screws as well as torx head screws put your screw driver/ bit driver in them and pound them with a hammer to break the rust loose as well as seat the bit fully in the screw
Thanks, I have already gone to work with the impact. I picked up an impact screw driver as well and I don’t waste an opportunity with the PB Blaster. I spray something, anything, every time I walk past it.
Does anyone know what these things are in the photos. Black cylindrical component against the firewall on driver’s side (bunch of hoses coming out of the top) and small cylindrical component attached to the fender on passenger’s side.
Driver side is the charcoal canister it’s part of your emissions and sucks gas fumes from the gas tank and carb bowl and lets the fumes back in the engine thru the vacuum
A week passed and I’ve cleared the engine compartment, cleared the interior (minus one bolt on the rear seat bracket that seems to have stripped) and taken the fenders off.
I’ve loosened all the remaining bolts for the front clip, steering column, and door/hood/windshield hardware. Taking a break since I’ve come across a baby snake getting warm on the bare metal behind the tailgate.
Nothing solidly interesting here. Since my last update the dash is gone, steering column, and pedals along with some more various things on the engine compartment side of the firewall.
Just wondering if anyone knows any good tricks to remove the rolls bar bolts that have seized and stripped. I’ve used tons of blaster, the torx bolts have stripped and I’ve tried cutting a slot to use and impact screwdriver. Not sure what else to do.
My door bolts were as good as seized...so I welded on a bolt to each one then used a socket to remove...only shortened the bolt a little each time...so one did all 9 stuck bolts....
My door bolts were as good as seized...so I welded on a bolt to each one then used a socket to remove...only shortened the bolt a little each time...so one did all 9 stuck bolts....
Can’t answer that..but I know they might take some force to loosen..try to tighten first...then loosen..if you get movement...keep working in and out ..and be generous with the lube...
