Bad day on brakes..........

[tarry99]

Then why are there two part numbers?

The math: Yep that looks like math all right...... I do understand how different ratio's effect the way your brake pedal feels.

Looks like Math to me..........Simply speaking............measure what you have and if the ratio is off correct it by drilling another hole in your pedal arm( I have done this many times) ...........there is a cir-clip holding the main shaft that locates the pedals to the firewall bracket.

Measure, mark the change , pull the clip, pull the shaft , drill the new hole and reassemble........Don't know what your linkage looks like, some may have a pin at the arm some just a bolt....if it has a fixed pin ,then make another and weld it in place.......no rocket science here.

And Pedal ratio vs feel?................The ratio either increase's or decreases the mechanical advantage at the foot pad via the ratio , that's why it's important.

 

[Hedgehog]

Tarry - I picked up a brake pedal and bracket from Willys Works here in town. The ratio is 15/3 or 5:1. I suppose a 4:1 or 15/3.75 ration would be better. I'm fighting taking the pedal bracket out AGAIN, but my mind is coming around to it. With the pedal and bracket out of the CJ moving or fabricating a new pin would be short work .

In your experience how is the stock pin attached to the pedal? Is it threaded in, a compressed fit or is it pressed in and peened like a rivet? As I wrote that there is little reason to do the pin in any way other than threaded in.

 

[tarry99]

Tarry - I picked up a brake pedal and bracket from Willys Works here in town. The ratio is 15/3 or 5:1. I suppose a 4:1 or 15/3.75 ration would be better. I'm fighting taking the pedal bracket out AGAIN, but my mind is coming around to it. With the pedal and bracket out of the CJ moving or fabricating a new pin would be short work .

In your experience how is the stock pin attached to the pedal? Is it threaded in, a compressed fit or is it pressed in and peened like a rivet? As I wrote that there is little reason to do the pin in any way other than threaded in.

In most cases you do not have to remove the complete bracket......look up under there and the large pin at the top that goes from L/R has a clip on the left side. pull it and the pin should........and not saying all will move out to the right far enough to allow the individual pedals to each come out..... it is a little harder to put then back in because it's tight under there.......but I have done so many that I just get it done somehow.

Not threaded............I would say it's like a rivet that has a crush fit and is pressed in.........I normally drill say a 1/4" +/- relief hole in the center of it which releases the tension .........and then knock it out............Good Luck!

One last thing...........make sure that the push rod once you make the ratio change at the pedal.........is in a fairly straight line back to the linkage or Master Cylinder bore........you do not want that push rod to bind...........as it does travel in a small arc.

 

[Hedgehog]

Do you reuse the pin by welding it in place after drilling the new hole?

Ohhh I know how to remove the bracket and get the pedal off. The issue is removing the pedals once again. Also contributing factors are the modifications I made to the pedal bracket. The original bracket simply wouldn't line up well with the dash panel, it hung down too low. So I modified it to match the dash panel perfectly and added some angle iron to lengthen the contact area with the fire wall. Why? A PO drilled holes and essentially tore open the brake MC hole in the fire wall for a MC of his own design. To my way of thinking weakening the fire wall. I did repair most of the fire wall damage, but I figured a bigger foot print wouldn't hurt. The modification is hell for strong, but not as easy to remove as the factory version. As I wrote, I'm just adjusting my head to get around the idea of removing the pedal mechanism once again.