Bass thumping and shake

[Scout1067]

This is new in the past week. When I am driving while accelerating or slowing down with the clutch engaged I get a very prominent shaking of the steering wheel and an almost subwoofer like rhythmic booming. As soon as I disengage the clutch the noise stops and I roll right along. This happens regardless of what gear I am in but only when the engine RPMs are between 1200-1500 or so as soon as I get below or above that range the shaking and noise stops. This link is to a recording a made yesterday of the noise, I think you can hear it but I am half-deaf so not sure: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-9n1u94gSOhkiIKJkP5wDu2ZTWCAB0gd

My guess it is the clutch plates as there is a little slip while shifting. I have new clutch plates and pilot bearing that I was going to put on next week. The wheel bearings on the front are new and I have not done anything to the rear axle recently.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

How much pedal free-travel do you have?
You want 1- 1 1/4". No more/no less....
LG

 

[Tectron]

This is new in the past week. When I am driving while accelerating or slowing down with the clutch engaged I get a very prominent shaking of the steering wheel and an almost subwoofer like rhythmic booming. As soon as I disengage the clutch the noise stops and I roll right along. This happens regardless of what gear I am in but only when the engine RPMs are between 1200-1500 or so as soon as I get below or above that range the shaking and noise stops. This link is to a recording a made yesterday of the noise, I think you can hear it but I am half-deaf so not sure: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-9n1u94gSOhkiIKJkP5wDu2ZTWCAB0gd

My guess it is the clutch plates as there is a little slip while shifting. I have new clutch plates and pilot bearing that I was going to put on next week. The wheel bearings on the front are new and I have not done anything to the rear axle recently.

Im wondering if it has something to do with the front axle or diff, sounds like it happens while under torque and if it affects the steering wheel maybe its there.

 

[Scout1067]

Im wondering if it has something to do with the front axle or diff, sounds like it happens while under torque and if it affects the steering wheel maybe its there.

This was my first thought as well but It happens in 2 and 4 wheel drive. In 4wd it is even worse though. If the wheels are unlocked why would the shake be there if the axle shafts are just spinning but not engaged with the hub?

I have done a lot of work to the front axle in the past few months. There are new wheel and spindle bearings and seals as well as new ball joints and a new front diff cover. I am wondering if maybe I did not torque the spindle nuts down enough on the right side as the shaking seems to be centered there if I had to SWAG and the lug nuts on that tire were slightly loose. I have some time to check that this morning.

 

[Scout1067]

I tightened the spindle nuts this morning. Both were loose. I torqued them to 50 ft/lbs as that is what the FSM says. I also did a better job of bending the sacrificial washer. I have to drive into town later so I will see.

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[Lumpy Grits]

I tightened the spindle nuts this morning. Both were loose. I torqued them to 50 ft/lbs as that is what the FSM says. I also did a better job of bending the sacrificial washer. I have to drive into town later so I will see.

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Did you reset the inner nut first? You should have.........
LG

 

[Scout1067]

Did you reset the inner nut first? You should have.........
LG

Yep, did the inner nut first. I double checked clutch pedal free play as well and it is right in the middle of the allowable range.

I think I figured it out. While I was putting my new diff cover with drain plug on the rear yesterday I noticed that the rear u-joint on the driveshaft is shot. By hand it rattles around about 1/4 in. I found an outfit in Spain that sells Moog u-joints for a decent price and ordered one this morning and it should be here tomorrow or the day after. That leaves me a question though, the bolts on the u-joint mounting bracket look like 12-point, do they require a special tool or just a 12 point socket? I can take a pic later to show you what I am talking about.

 

[caveman]

Yes, It takes a 12 point socket. 5/16 If I remember right. I should remember by now. I've changed enough of mine.

 

[Scout1067]

It's a 1/4in 12 point on mine. I replaced the u-joint now its time for a test drive.

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[TnCJ]

Looks like the old one was starving for grease lol.
Hopefully the new one will fix your problem.

 

[cglax6]

Looks like your fur kids aren't much help in that last picture...

 

[Scout1067]

Looks like your fur kids aren't much help in that last picture...

The u-joint was the problem.

The dogs are pretty good company though.

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[RiverandSand]

The u-joint was the problem.

The dogs are pretty good company though.

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Good to read you found the problem. Did you replace both u-joints? If not I would get another one and do it too.

 

[coldair]

The u-joint was the problem.

The dogs are pretty good company though.

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Do your dogs speak german or english lol all kidding aside looks like your new moog joint is beefy.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I would replace ALL of the drive shaft u-joints.
Make sure the slip-splines in both DS's are well lubed.
I grease my u-joints every 4-5K miles.
LG

 

[Scout1067]

Do your dogs speak german or english lol all kidding aside looks like your new moog joint is beefy.

Both speak English although the black one is the other American in the house, she is a Texan and we brought her with us when we moved here in 2008. She's almost 15 now and kind of slow but still trucking. The brown one is a rescue we got over here, he is 115 pounds of goofy idiot, but he is okay.

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[Scout1067]

I would replace ALL of the drive shaft u-joints.
Make sure the slip-splines in both DS's are well lubed.
LG

I plan on it.

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[Lumpy Grits]

LG