Brake beeding question

[cdlongjr]

I've gotten all the brake lines replaced. I have bleed the system 5 times & I'm still getting small amounts of air from all 4 points. The pedal sometimes is hard on the 1st pump & sometime the second pump. The air amounts vary, sometimes 3-4 bubbles, sometimes more. Then on the second bleed of the same position, no air. I'm bleeding via hose into a glass. Is this the norm? Positions are right rear to left front to left rear to right front.

 

[mylittlecj5]

always start at the right rear>to left rear>to right front>to left front.
things to check-
Is the master cylinder full at all times? Is the jar full enough at the start to keep air out of the system on pedal release?
Are you making absolutely sure that there is no air being sucked back into the system when the pedal is released? like thru a bad seal on your hose to the bleeder valve?
Make sure the pedal is released slowly after each pump up.
Do you have someone to pump the pedal while you watch the jar for bubbles? or is it a guess to when there is no more air?
I don't know if you replaced the master cylinder, but if you did, was it bench bled? That is VERY important!

 

[coldwater]

When you work on your own brakes, the MITY VAC is your friend!

 

[BrockGrimes]

Do yourself a favor, invest in speed bleeders and save yourself some grief.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/



Also cover the bleeders when your done with those little rubber vaccum caps.



After dealing with brake issues on the last few used cars I've owned, I've learned
to invest a little cash and make it easy on myself.

 

[projectcrawler]

If you have an air compressor, drive about a mile down the road from your house and get one of these. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
They also have manual ones if you don't have a compressor. Or wait til I get back to work next week (thurs. 4/9) and you can borrow mine. I work at newark toyota. Little advice. When you use one of these, Bleed with vacume and then just pull the hose off without closing the bleeder on the brakes. Let the wheel cyl. or caliper gravity bleed for about a min. We use the vacume bleeders at work as part of our brake flush, and they create vacume inside the lines and leak air past the bleeder's threads into the lines. If you don't gravity bleed, most of the time the pedal gets mushy.

 

[dalefan88]

Definatly get the vacuum kit. Worth its weight in gold.
All we did ALL last summer was bleed #$%^&*&^%!!! brakes.
Replaced the master cylander, made a little tool to hold open the proportioning valve, swapped calipers and bled and bled and bled.

Finally got that little vaccuum thingy and with in about a day the jeep finally stoped!!

~mrsdalefan

 

[coldwater]

Yeah, that little mity vac is gold. I have had that thing for 15 years and it still works like new. I fill the little container with fluid and reverse bleed from the wheel cylinders. Air goes up, done in nothing flat.

 

[Petescj]

Good little product. I'll have to remember this when I change out my rears. I have a Dana 30 with 4.56s , locker and high steer and a 20 with 4.56s moser axles welded tubes and locker to replace my open 4.10s.

 

[coldwater]

Here's a little info on them if you hav'nt used one before.

Mityvac

 

[cdlongjr]

Entire brake system was replaced. Master cylinder was bleed before installation. Then as system was bleed, lines started leaking. Front calipers were replaced & have the speed bleeders. Wheel cylinders were replaced, but don't have speed bleeders. Son is pumping pedal while I bleed & watch the flow into the glass thru the bleeder hose that fits on the bleeders tightly. He tells me when the pedal starts to move down & I close the bleeder. 1st opening gets some air, second opening I watch the fluid level in the glass rise, no air. I didn't mess w/ the proportioning valve, but my brake light isn't on when the key is in the on position. Yes, I have an air compressor. Master cylinder is checked & filled after each wheel is bleed. Hasn't been emptied. When all new parts were installed, I filled the master cylinder & pumped the pedal until I got resistance, then topped off the master cylinder & started bleeding.

 

[coldwater]

Entire brake system was replaced. Master cylinder was bleed before installation. Then as system was bleed, lines started leaking. Front calipers were replaced & have the speed bleeders. Wheel cylinders were replaced, but don't have speed bleeders. Son is pumping pedal while I bleed & watch the flow into the glass thru the bleeder hose that fits on the bleeders tightly. He tells me when the pedal starts to move down & I close the bleeder. 1st opening gets some air, second opening I watch the fluid level in the glass rise, no air. I didn't mess w/ the proportioning valve, but my brake light isn't on when the key is in the on position. Yes, I have an air compressor. Master cylinder is checked & filled after each wheel is bleed. Hasn't been emptied. When all new parts were installed, I filled the master cylinder & pumped the pedal until I got resistance, then topped off the master cylinder & started bleeding.

That's a text book 2 man bleed right there. The only place some people go wrong with a bleed like that is they "pump" the pedal instead of "push" Any quick movement of that pressureized air will quickly aerate the fluid and it will take DAYS to get it settled again.

 

[cdlongjr]

Thanks Coldwater! Who says ya can't teach an ole dog!!!