Carb/Distributor Help

[MN CJ7]

Holy that's some good information. I've completely drained the tank and fuel lines and replaced it with new fuel but still having the same problem. I've also removed and cleaned the carb with no improvement. I'm now going to get a timing light and try to figure out how to properly set the timing.

Also, the distributor is an aftermarket DUI if that makes any difference.

Thanks to everyone for their input.

New gas we have a base line.... lets ck a few things...

DUI is a premium after market distributor often known as a HEI... This is a premium version and better than most... The best is the MSD and followed by the DUI. The HEI market has been flooded in past with hardnened gears... Even a few DUIs had them... If you can find TDC #1 using the compression stroke.... might be good idea to ck the gear.... See if you can drill it with a std drill bit like 1/8" and make a little divit... Should drill easily... Hope it passes this test... Then look at the cam gear down the hold and verify it has good shape and all gears there. I think you are OK but this is a good ck on any HEI in AMC.

Any time you work or move distributor mark the mtd collar with a shapie so you can put back in almost the same position... NOT 100% sure with the DUI hei but if pointing to #1 wire location on TDC then the vac advance should be pointing to the front & radiator.

Borrow a time or light or get one, you will need to get this set better.

I still think you have a gas issue...
Once you get it started again..... have small cap of gas, like 2 tablespoons.... This small amt of gas can be put down the carb throat... it this helps the engine run we have a fuel path issue...

When you set up to do this... take air cleaner off. Pump gas 1-2 times fully and watch the choke close.... The choke is closed by a spring.... Electric 12Volts heats this spring and is what opens the choke... it will stay hot 100% of time while the engine is running and hot... Take 2 min for the choke to heat up in summer temps and longer in cold winter months.

Webers Carb.... if the cap of gas helps.
1... Jeep uses a Fuel filter by the carb... Has one input and two out puts... The return line is on top and the carb line is on the bottom... must me mounted this way or you will pump air into carb... To fix just can rotate the filter with lines attached still..

2.... Once when I cleaned a weber during a jet test..... I had a pc of lint catch on the casting.... the linnk worked its way to the bottom of bowl and into the Primary Run Jet the one closest to the choke. When wet the lint was almost clear and could not see it.... Take both run jets out and look for lint.. My lint was stucck in the primary run jet and would not run except on idle and then only some....

3.. I had a weber float stick once on a rough casting and once on the gasket that got crooked.. If the float is held is the up position it will keep gas from filling the bowl... This is one of my lasts guess... i thinks it one of the others...

4.... Do this first...... Webers are very rich.... Pull your spark plugs and write down what each one looks like..... Black sooty wet white and carbonded up.... write down a description for each one... #1 cyliner is by radiator... and #6 is by the firewall.... they should be tan but I am guessing they are black and sooty???? Write down and tell us what you find... If sooty....... clean them off gently with wire brush to remove carbon.... gap them to .045", use copper antizeise on the threads and put them back... Carbon is conductive and can keep the plug from firing..


go thru this ck list and I think you will be running again...

 

[1986cj7]

Thanks MN CJ7 that clears up alot of woundering that I've been doing the last 4 mounths or so.

 

[Nomad127]

MN CJ7 ......you're my hero. Unfortunately, I'll be traveling until Sunday but I plan to walk all the way down your list. Thanks again!

 

[Nomad127]

Plugs are black and sooty so I'll be cleaning those. My fuel filter was a simple, in-line type that you see in lawn mowers so I'm changing to the proper type. My fuel tank is a 15gal sitting under the driver seat. Another PO "modification" so there's no fuel lines coming out of the sending unit on top. There is a 2nd plugged fitting next to the line on bottom. Question: where does the return line go to?

 

[CJ007]

No offense but you sure its a weber and not a carter. Might as well be sure, venturi on those can screw things up.

I doubt timing would have changed and you may create a new prob by screwing with.

 

[Nomad127]

No offense but you sure its a weber and not a carter. Might as well be sure, venturi on those can screw things up.

I doubt timing would have changed and you may create a new prob by screwing with.

Here's a photo of the carb as it sits now. I didn't do much of anything with the distributor other than rotate it back and forth a couple degrees while idling only to put it back to it's original spot which sounded best. With a turkey baster, I was able to keep it running at idle by dripping fuel down the throat. Now, without the turkey baster, it's idling pretty smoothly. Problem; when I try to rev it up, it revs and then immediately dies as it comes back down. It won't stay revved even if I'm holding the throttle linkage. Making progress! I hope.

 

[Nomad127]

Update: While taking the old Weber apart to clean....again, I broke one of the jets so I decided to get a whole new carb and be done with this problem.

Just installed the new Weber 2-barrel and it's doing the exact same thing. It will idle fine but when I give it some gas, it revs up and then dies as soon as it drops back to idle.

I really hate troubleshooting by purchasing but I was pretty sure the carb was the problem. Now what? Any ideas are much appreciated.

 

[Nomad127]

So....I checked the fuel pump and it seemed to not be pumping very well so I replaced that hoping that is the problem. Nope. Still doing the same thing.

Anyone want a '73 CJ5 ? Runs great.......almost.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Still pumping fuel slow? Did you try MN's suggestion about trying to keep running with cap of fuel? Did that help it stay running?

Is it running slow (fuel) before or after the filter?

If after, check the filter... Didn't you say you didn't have a return line from your filter? (3 connections on your filter?)

I've heard a few people have issues like this, and turned out the filter wasn't correct / was dirty...

Maybe your filter is just dirty? Can't remember now if you mentioned replacing it already...

 

[MN CJ7]

I didn't do much of anything with the distributor other than rotate it back and forth a couple degrees while idling only to put it back to it's original spot which sounded best.

With a turkey baster, I was able to keep it running at idle by dripping fuel down the throat. Now, without the turkey baster, it's idling pretty smoothly.

Problem; when I try to rev it up, it revs and then immediately dies as it comes back down. It won't stay revved even if I'm holding the throttle linkage. .

Update: While taking the old Weber apart to clean....again, I broke one of the jets so I decided to get a whole new carb and be done with this problem.

Just installed the new Weber 2-barrel and it's doing the exact same thing. It will idle fine but when I give it some gas, it revs up and then dies as soon as it drops back to idle.

So....I checked the fuel pump and it seemed not to be pumping very well ??????????????? so I replaced that hoping that is the problem. Nope. Still doing the same thing. .

Sorry still having trouble.... I have been busy and should have replied a few days ago.... sorry again... I can help you get going...... Funny thing I just had my Idle circuit on My WEBER 34 have a issue after 4 years of being installed...... its my first failure.... The Weber carbs work very well if set up right...

Here is a article on WEBER/JEEP AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l I wrote about 3 years ago... Read it carefully and all the links... Print out the material... it will be the most info you will find on webers on the web anywhere..... Let me know when you will print the WEBER 34 Post...... pick a night and I will change my photobucket account put the pictures back in the posting..... It will make much better sence with the pics on..... if you need them???

Here is the link..... read the links and all the links in the post
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105

I would like to know what work you did over the 4mo time... You said did not touch engine but what work did you do.... Did you drop the gas tanks and replace fuel lines. Are some of your fuel lines by the gas tank loook to be the orginal lines and look dry and cracked... I think you sucked up some crude but not sure yet... So please tell us fully what you did...

Also tell us about how it will run.... MY UNDERSTANDING>>.. is you set the choke and high idle cam and the jeep will run by itself... Let run for a few min and then rev to knock off choke and it will not run then unless on the gas pedal.... If correct great...... if not please explain again.

Did you install a Jeep Type Fuel Filter?????? This would be the type that has two outputs and uses the return line... Weber carb can run on a return line.... I prefer to run the weber on a single fuel line that ends at the carb, no return line... Weber needs 3.5 psi fuel pressure and use the HOLLY LOW PRESSURE REGULATOR ONLY its the only one that works.... the pic above from the the other helper has a "mr Gasket" regulator and they are not very good and have been written up hundreds of times for causing more trouble than they fix...... Poster if you read this think about changing over to the Holly Reg.

You also posted your fuel pump was not working well so you replaced it.. What did you see or find that lead to this action.... Just helps us fill in the blanks...

Please take you time and fill in the info above... Internet help is not easy and so we have to ask for details....


My first blush
is you have sucked up junk in the gas tank and / or have some old fuel lines that allow small rubber pieces into your fuel flow.... Old rubber fuel lines break down and the rubber pcs flake off esp when flex and moved around.....

Example.....I just droped my tank for the first time to restore the rear 1/3 of my CJ and put in a Dana 44HD & Lockers and rewire the rear light and treat rust.... I had some old fuel lines and the tank was very very very clean ( I was pleased about that).....A few wks later my idle was rough and my weber idle circuit failed and just completing the fix now.... I also played with a few things at the same time so was a bit more complex. ....

So........I think.... YOUR .....
Weber Idle Circuite got plugged or partial plugged.

Your jets are toooooo big and will need to be changed........... Let wait a bit till we get you going and running better so we have fewer variable....

You will need a time light to set your initial advance and that is part of our issue......

Your distributor might be binding and not allow advance to come out after reved...... guess but lets see where this takes us.

I do want you to get a Holley fuel reg and clear fuel filter. A pressure gauge on the second output of the regulator is also a great tool. Its allows you to set the pressure, see the pres, and looks cool too.



The Weber jets are brass and small.... Be Gentle with them... They only need 1 ft# or less and can be put in with light force... When setting jet they can be put in very light to stop from wear and breakage... Brass jets and in alumium housing..... both soft metals....... be gentle...


Since you are working with me and Weber N America your replacement jets will be free.... they have been doing this for the past 3 years or so...


MORE Info I need you to cover

Your pic looked like the weber 34, but please confrim

I would like to see more pics.... top, both sides and the distributor area... I also want more detail on the work you did.

Did you any aux ground work yet????????......
CJs have very poor grounds and it causes alll kinds of issues.... One istance would be ........ MANY JEEPERS..... run poorly because their duraspark igntion modual needs a better ground and they need to ground the head also. The Ignition Path is a DC circuite and the spark engergy leaves the battery AND will travel to ignition modual, coil, wires, plugs, head, block?, and BACK to battery.... Poor grounds will kill your spark.... I even use copper antiseize on the spark plug threads to help with the ground path.... More to come on grounds and ground path...



Lets see what you have to say after reading the link material and thinking about your feedback on your issues... Then we will work on the action items..... You can get the holley regulator now the webers run so much better with the right fuel pressure.

 

[Nomad127]

MN CJ7 ,

I truly appreciate the time you've taken to help me with my problem. After spending some time on the phone with the DUI guys, they recommended that I change the module in the distributor based on what I told them was going on. I ordered a new module while out of town and installed it today. Sure enough, that did the trick.

Since I now have a new carburetor, Weber 36/38, I still may ask for some help getting it perfectly adjusted. For now, it starts, idles, and revs up as it should.

Thanks again for all your help.

Jeff

 

[MN CJ7]

Glad you are running....

Thanks for the thanks too.