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Carburetor troubleshoot/Help!

Carburetor troubleshoot/Help!

applegrower

Jeeper
Posts
10
Thanks
0
Location
Central NY
Vehicle(s)
1984 CJ7, AMC 150ci 4 cyl, 4 speed, Dana 300, AMC 20. Stock.
Hi All,

First post here, go easy... In desperate need of some real carb gurus!

Relatively new jeeper. Bought my first CJ about a year ago, made some minor repairs and improvements and drove it all last summer! Put it in storage,(and moved to NY over the winter) and took it out a month ago. Started right up and fine getting it on/off the trailer, then would not run right after I got it home. Here's my issue:

It seemes to be running VERY lean; would fire right up and sometimes idle great when cold, but as soon as the choke opened up it would die and not start unless I was on the throttle. Reset to factory settings and that did nothing, and actually made it worse to the point where it would not run at all. It would not run unless the idle speed screw was cranked way in.

I checked for vacuum leaks, sprayed the :dung: out of it with carb cleaner, and tried to tune it with the idle mix for a solid 2 weeks before deciding to rebuild the carburetor.

Last week I rebuilt the carb, replacing everything in the kit and then some. Everything looked good except for being extremely dirty; the power valve diaphragm (NOT the accel pump diaphragm) looked to have a small tear in it and was very worn, so that was replaced as well.

Put the carb back on, and the exact same thing is still happening. First crank after I bolted on the rebuilt carb and it fired right up, ran and idled the best it EVER has, so I let it tractor on factory settings. (Idle Speed = 1 crank in after contact w/ linkage, Idle Mix = 2.5 turns out.) As soon as the electric choke opened up it died. Now it will not start unless my foot is on the accel. Anybody have any idea as to what my issue is?

THINGS TO NOTE:

1. The carb is NOT a factory Carter. It is a Weber DGV 2 barrel electric choke that the PO installed. It is a true original Weber, and the rebuild kit I bought was from Redline. I believe it is jetted properly.

2. Was running very rough when I bought it last summer. PO had it tuned totally wrong. I messed with the idle mix screw and made it better, but it still seemed to stumble/choke if I gave it a lot of throttle while going down the road (i.e. stepping on it in 4th gear.) mimicing a lean condition. It would not run unless the Idle Speed screw was turned waaay in (3-4 turns) and I left it that way for the end of the season. I did a full tune up when I purchased it, which helped a lot also.

3. Since reinstalling the carb last week I have re-checked:
- float level (correct - 35mm/51mm for plastic float)
- clogged jets (idle jet was clogged on reinstall but everything is now clear.)
- proper gasket seating
- linkage binding. - seems to "snap" fine, linkages installed correctly.

4. I have checked for vacuum leaks by eye but cannot keep it running to use carb cleaner to spray mounting gaskets etc. There were two massive ports on the intake manifold that were open. I plugged those, tried it, no luck. (Note: those ports have always been open since I've owned the jeep though.)

5. I am assuming that fuel pressure is good, although I should not. I am assuming this because I can still floor it and it runs great.



Sorry for the long winded post; please offer any help or advice if I am missing something very obvious. As the weather is getting nicer I am getting very antsy to get her out on the road!

Thank You!
 
Welcome to the forum. I've got the same engine and a Webber also. Sorry I'm not a great carb guru that can help you figure your problem out, but that being said, it can work well on that engine. The one thing I'm wondering is how fresh is the fuel in your tank ? Gas can get old and stale and cause problems. Best thing I did a few years back was install an MSD box which creates a very hot spark which really helped my engine run very smooth. With over 240,000 miles now the engine has never run better
 
If you disconnect and plug all the vacuum lines then that should eliminate them as a leak source. Also don't forget the brake booster vacuum line. Recheck intake bolts for tightness. Also attach a vacuum gauge below thrrotle plate and note the vacuum on decel. If you can not get 28 plus inches on decel it may be time for a valve job. Compression test to confirm. If it has power cold you probably just have a vacuum leak.
Good luck
Hi All,

First post here, go easy... In desperate need of some real carb gurus!

Relatively new jeeper. Bought my first CJ about a year ago, made some minor repairs and improvements and drove it all last summer! Put it in storage,(and moved to NY over the winter) and took it out a month ago. Started right up and fine getting it on/off the trailer, then would not run right after I got it home. Here's my issue:

It seemes to be running VERY lean; would fire right up and sometimes idle great when cold, but as soon as the choke opened up it would die and not start unless I was on the throttle. Reset to factory settings and that did nothing, and actually made it worse to the point where it would not run at all. It would not run unless the idle speed screw was cranked way in.

I checked for vacuum leaks, sprayed the :dung: out of it with carb cleaner, and tried to tune it with the idle mix for a solid 2 weeks before deciding to rebuild the carburetor.

Last week I rebuilt the carb, replacing everything in the kit and then some. Everything looked good except for being extremely dirty; the power valve diaphragm (NOT the accel pump diaphragm) looked to have a small tear in it and was very worn, so that was replaced as well.

Put the carb back on, and the exact same thing is still happening. First crank after I bolted on the rebuilt carb and it fired right up, ran and idled the best it EVER has, so I let it tractor on factory settings. (Idle Speed = 1 crank in after contact w/ linkage, Idle Mix = 2.5 turns out.) As soon as the electric choke opened up it died. Now it will not start unless my foot is on the accel. Anybody have any idea as to what my issue is?

THINGS TO NOTE:

1. The carb is NOT a factory Carter. It is a Weber DGV 2 barrel electric choke that the PO installed. It is a true original Weber, and the rebuild kit I bought was from Redline. I believe it is jetted properly.

2. Was running very rough when I bought it last summer. PO had it tuned totally wrong. I messed with the idle mix screw and made it better, but it still seemed to stumble/choke if I gave it a lot of throttle while going down the road (i.e. stepping on it in 4th gear.) mimicing a lean condition. It would not run unless the Idle Speed screw was turned waaay in (3-4 turns) and I left it that way for the end of the season. I did a full tune up when I purchased it, which helped a lot also.

3. Since reinstalling the carb last week I have re-checked:
- float level (correct - 35mm/51mm for plastic float)
- clogged jets (idle jet was clogged on reinstall but everything is now clear.)
- proper gasket seating
- linkage binding. - seems to "snap" fine, linkages installed correctly.

4. I have checked for vacuum leaks by eye but cannot keep it running to use carb cleaner to spray mounting gaskets etc. There were two massive ports on the intake manifold that were open. I plugged those, tried it, no luck. (Note: those ports have always been open since I've owned the jeep though.)

5. I am assuming that fuel pressure is good, although I should not. I am assuming this because I can still floor it and it runs great.



Sorry for the long winded post; please offer any help or advice if I am missing something very obvious. As the weather is getting nicer I am getting very antsy to get her out on the road!

Thank You!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
The tank was about 1/3 full when I put it in storage for the winter, and I added stabilizer. (didn't think to fill it or run it dry... rookie move.) That fuel is still in there, but I have filled the balance of the tank with fresh fuel. I was discounting that it was bad fuel because it still idles fine when cold occasionally, and I can still floor it OK, but maybe I totally overlooked that as a problem?

Thanks for the reply. Upgrading to an MSD ignition is on my very long "wish list."
 
If you disconnect and plug all the vacuum lines then that should eliminate them as a leak source. Also don't forget the brake booster vacuum line. Recheck intake bolts for tightness. Also attach a vacuum gauge below thrrotle plate and note the vacuum on decel. If you can not get 28 plus inches on decel it may be time for a valve job. Compression test to confirm. If it has power cold you probably just have a vacuum leak.
Good luck

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice. I will certainly try blocking off all the vacuum lines and go from there. There are two PCV valves on top of the valve cover. I replaced them both last year, but they still seem very loose in the valve cover and I thought they could be the culprit. Checking with a vacuum gauge is probably a good idea.
 
The way you describe it won’t idle unless the choke is on or you have your foot in it seems to me that’s it’s still a problem with your idle circuit on your carb like it’s to lean have you tried turning the mix screws out further or screw the idle screw in further to increase idle, still could be a vacuum leak, it’s hard to say without being there with you good luck


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Update:

Just pulled and plugged all the vacuum lines (brake booster, distributor, and valve cover/PCV valves.) Would not start.

So I turned the Idle Mix out to 3, 3.5, 4 turns. No dice.

Then turned the Idle Speed in to 3 turns, and it fired up and it idled at 900rpm (as I would have expected; dumping fuel into it.) Ran great, very smooth with choke closed.

As it ran I sprayed around all gaskets/potential leak sources I could with Gum Out - intake to adapter plate, adapter plate to carb, carb top cover gasket, and vacuum line fittings etc. No stumbling whatsoever.

I let it idle for about 6 minutes, then throttled up to 2500-3000rpm until the choke butterfly plates were vertical for 15 seconds or so. When I let go of the throttle I noticed the choke butterfly plates did not return to their 45 degree angle position and stayed all the way open, and it stumbled and then died.

It seems like this may be my issue?
 
Last edited:
When the choke is off the choke plate should stay vertical


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Figured it out!

After re-checking everything again, turned out I had set the float level incorrectly. I had reset it based on the directions included in the Redline kit, which specifically indicated to ignore old float level settings (40mm, 50mm etc) on Webers and use a different measurement they provided, so I did. That turned out to be totally wrong and fuel bowl level was way too low.

After doing some digging online it seemed like there were a few different "standard" float settings for a Weber DGV, and that others had gotten multiple different settings from Redline Weber... so through the process of pulling the top cover and adjusting the float 4 different times today, I found the sweet spot got it running!(35mm with plastic float resting on, but not depressing ball and spring; measured to lower side of float.) I'm sure there was some error on my part to begin with anyway.

Thanks for the help troubleshooting. More posts to come!
 
Wow dude that’s cool glad to hear


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