Carrier Replacement, does it need to be "re-Set Up"?

[DC712001]

Vehicle: 1979 CJ5 , AMC 304 V8, 33-inch tires with a 1975 Dana 44 Rear Axle Assembly and Factory Trac-Lok Limited slip.

MY QUESTION:
When installing a New Trac-Loc Carrier Unit, can you bolt on the old ring-gear, add new side bearings and races and re-install the carrier, or does it require the Ring/Pinion to be re-shimmed/set-up?

General Information:
Two weekends back, my Dana 44 Trac-Lok rear, 3.73 ratio broke. Was on the Street, nothing out of the ordinary happened, but it started getting noisy.

I Jacked the wheels off the ground, rotating tires and D/S, the noise came from the center section. Pulled the cover. Upon inspection, the Left Side gear has a couple chipped teeth and one Spider Gear has a completely missing tooth. The Cross Shaft is broken at the case edge (retainer clips still holding in place, it fractured/sheared at the carrier edge.)

I looked at the cost of the Trac-Lok rebuild kit, and a New Unit is roughly the same cost.

My options look to be, 1) rebuild the carrier, 2) buy a New L/S replacement carrier or 3) locate/buy a complete used differential and housing with the same track-width.

I can weld on new spring perches if that width is incorrect. I saw a used one today for $400, drum-to-drum with a Trac-Lok. Then again, used may be buying someone else's worn out rear.

 

[gert]

When you replace your carrier you absolutely need to check for correct contact patch. It really is not to difficult. You aught to be very close new carrier and bearings with old ring gear..... Detroit locker time?????? I have set up a few difs (and by no means an expert) This would be a great time to order a Ring and Pinion install kit and either the rebuild for your Limited slip or a new locker and replace all your bearings and seals so that you will have many many trouble free miles you can buy a cheap dial indicator from enco, and harbor freight. you just need patience and follow the FSM

 

[DC712001]

Thanks for the reply Gert.

If I re-use/rebuild the Original Carrier, do I still NEED to check/re-shim, etc? Ideally, it would be good to do, but is it required?

As far as being easy, I was hoping that if replacing or rebuilding the original Trac-Lok, I could just leave the housing and pinion in place (mounted in the vehicle) and just drop out the carrier, do the fix and re-install. Was hoping around $500 for parts and 2 to 4 hours.

I don't trust myself in getting everything 100% degreased, apply bluing, getting out dial-indicators, adding/removing shims, buying "Special" Tools, bearing pullers, etc. If I get the Setup wrong, I'll destroy the Ring/Pinion.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I have found that buy using Dana-Spicer bearings etc, that if shim'n is need'd-It's not much.
You must ck backlash and ck contact pattern on both the drive and coast side of the gears.
LG

 

[gert]

Thanks for the reply Gert.

If I re-use/rebuild the Original Carrier, do I still NEED to check/re-shim, etc? Ideally, it would be good to do, but is it required?

As far as being easy, I was hoping that if replacing or rebuilding the original Trac-Lok, I could just leave the housing and pinion in place (mounted in the vehicle) and just drop out the carrier, do the fix and re-install. Was hoping around $500 for parts and 2 to 4 hours.

I don't trust myself in getting everything 100% degreased, apply bluing, getting out dial-indicators, adding/removing shims, buying "Special" Tools, bearing pullers, etc. If I get the Setup wrong, I'll destroy the Ring/Pinion.

LOL if rebuilding original trac loc and re installing you will not need to re shim. Just remember that DANA uses the case to preload your carrier bearings so it should be a little fun to wiggle it out and back in......I need to re look at the FSM because I wonder if you even need to remove it in the first place to re build it

 

[Lumpy Grits]

OP-Make sure you mark the carrier bearing caps, so you re-install them the same way/position.
Also-IF you need to remove the ring gear and your keep'n the carrier. Mark it's location and re-install to the same point.
IF, you re-install the same carrier with no bearing or gear chg. No shim'n should be required. I would measure the backlash before you remove the carrier for reference for re-install.
LG

 

[DC712001]

Thanks Lumpy and Gert:

I may lean toward the $400 complete used rear end (if it looks good) or, perhaps...

I'll need to pull the whole existing rear end assembly and drop it off at a shop for overhaul. I just don't want this to turn into weeks of time and $thousands to get this fixed.

Might buy a Kit if I can replace/rebuild without needing to do a full set-up job. I perused the Dana 44 Service Manual and did notice the "Case-Spreader" situation.

Roughly, how much should a shop charge to replace the bearings and carrier gears, clutches, etc, if I bought a $500 Limited Slip Carrier (bearings, Labor)?

This Jeep doesn't make it off-road very often, but it does have 33-inch tires and a AMC 304 V8.

The last time I was in this situation (5-years back), the original AMC20 rear went out. I shopped around a couple weeks, even considered a New $6,000 rear at that time.

Eventually, I came back to my senses and decided to pull the Dana 44 w/TracLok out of my '75 CJ5 , welded on new spring pads at the wider spring width and correct pinion-angle.

 

[hagar]

Trac Lok is iffy even when they are new.
I wouldn't buy a used axle or even a used Trak Loc....
You had a used Trac Lok before it broke.
Rebuild what's yours.
then you know what you have.

 

[gert]

Thanks Lumpy and Gert:

I may lean toward the $400 complete used rear end (if it looks good) or, perhaps...

I'll need to pull the whole existing rear end assembly and drop it off at a shop for overhaul. I just don't want this to turn into weeks of time and $thousands to get this fixed.

Might buy a Kit if I can replace/rebuild without needing to do a full set-up job. I perused the Dana 44 Service Manual and did notice the "Case-Spreader" situation.

Roughly, how much should a shop charge to replace the bearings and carrier gears, clutches, etc, if I bought a $500 Limited Slip Carrier (bearings, Labor)?

I have heard somewhere in the $250 range for gear set up, but you will have to call around to shops you trust to get a real answer on that
Just for giggles I looked up Randy's ring and Pinion and you would be looking at $475 for a Yukon dif (I dont know much about them) or $665 for the Detroit and $235 for the master overhaul kit and labor for it all so I would expect around $1000 to put it all together, I think you can shop around and get a some better prices if you are patient but this should give you an idea Diff Wizard And as always There is a thousand different ways to skin this cat you will just have to decide which one makes best since to you

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Get away from the trac-lock. They're junk, IMO.
Power-loc is a much better deal for clutch type LSD.
LG

 

[PaRenegade]

Or better yet. Since your going to spend the money on another LS, why not just get a Tru-Trac LS and get away from the clutch type altogether. Much more reliable and they don't wear out like clutch types do. They only run $400-$425. You'd spend close to that for a loaded tracLok I imagine.

 

[GARGOYLEJEEPER]

Cleanliness is a must, you have metallics in the oil. No need to re set, just remove every thing & inspect bearing surface for wear, if worn replace.

I have done hundreds of Diffs and it is best to replace bearings any time you have broken parts. Have Trac-Loc magnifluxed at a machine shop for cracks or replace. It is best to spend a little money now or more money later when your parts fail. Bearing caps are already punched for placement from factory.

To set up a Trac-Loc, you need a arbor press, or a press and a Trac-Loc tool, if no tool you will need a bar and a metal puck to press parts in.

When every thing is back in check pattern & may have to move the thinnest shim from one side of carrier bearing to the other. Since that is all you can do.

If replacing carrier install original shims check pattern and do above.

If this repair is to much for you take to a shop.

Have Dana 30 & 44 PDF if wanted, way better then FSM.

 

[DC712001]

Thanks for the replies. I may have a pull-out replacement for $40 from someone that did a gear upgrade on a low mileage unit. Will likely get it installed by a shop, but if not, then the earlier options are back on the table.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk