Choke Pull-off & Some Other Stuff...

[Niedhogg]

Ok, a couple of things.. My harness seems pretty clean, I just installed the start relay for my new HEI distributor and it finally starts with the key, but now I need to know where to get the 12V for the choke pull-off.

Now there is this series of connected wires running down the intake to a switch on the side of the oil pump and then back up that I am unsure about..
View attachment 7514

And then this comes off the battery side of the starter solonoid, ran through the loom around the back of the intake and has a mounting braket on the terminal. It looks to have a resistor wire inline on it..
View attachment 7515

Any help here? This is the connected state I found these in, and the terminal in the last pic will connect to any of the two in the other pic. Maybe a schematic from anyone?

 

[elwood blues]

~~ but now I need to know where to get the 12V for the choke pull-off.

~~ Maybe a schematic from anyone?

I'll see what I can find for a schematic, check the documents section first though Jeep-CJ Documents and Manuals


Choke pull off, do you mean electric choke? A choke pull off is a vacuum operated solenoid that assists in opening the choke when when the engine has reached operating temperature. An electric choke is this thing;

It has a metallic coil on the insidem that when a voltage is applied, causes the metal to expand and open the choke.

 

[Niedhogg]

Yes, sorry, it is the electric choke. I have a Holley 470 Truck Avenger w/electric choke. trying to figure out the choke circuit, where it gets 12V from, and the series wire loom in the picture. Ill check out that link, but a schematic would be handy.

 

[elwood blues]

It doesn't really matter where the +12Vdc for the choke comes from, you want to make sure that it's on a fuse by itself and that there is only power there when the key is in the ON position, and no other position.

You also need to make sure that the choke is ground well, at a minimum to the tub, better if it was to the engine block.

 

[Niedhogg]

It doesn't really matter where the +12Vdc for the choke comes from, you want to make sure that it's on a fuse by itself and that there is only power there when the key is in the ON position, and no other position.

You also need to make sure that the choke is ground well, at a minimum to the tub, better if it was to the engine block.

That's what i was thinking about the choke 12V. It has it's own grnd to the carb, which is basically the block.

Any clue on that other wire from my solonoid? Is that an inline fuse in the pic? It must have supplied a constant voltage to something, and that terminal was mounted to something with that bracket..

Looks like there's a schematic for an 80, but it's not ledgable..

 

[elwood blues]

No, I can't even give you an educated guess without being able to reference a schematic. You should pick yourself up a $20 haynes/chiltons manual, they have the wiring diagrams in them. They're kind of general, but they'll definately help.

If you want year specific you're going to have to buy a used or repro FSM or the FSM on CD.

 

[Niedhogg]

No, I can't even give you an educated guess without being able to reference a schematic. You should pick yourself up a $20 haynes/chiltons manual, they have the wiring diagrams in them. They're kind of general, but they'll definately help.

If you want year specific you're going to have to buy a used or repro FSM or the FSM on CD.

Thanks Elwood, gonna need one anyway one of these days.. I have no guages at the moment, so something is screwed up. Seems to me most factory guages don't use a full 12V in most vehicles, is that the case with Jeeps??

 

[elwood blues]

Thanks Elwood, gonna need one anyway one of these days.. I have no guages at the moment, so something is screwed up. Seems to me most factory guages don't use a full 12V in most vehicles, is that the case with Jeeps??

No, the gauges in the CJ's run on straight +12Vdc. Well, I looked at the wiring schematic in my FSM, and I don't know of a lot of wiring changes between '78 and '80, so assuming they're the same, the brown wire is probably for the AC compressor, and the green is for the anit-diesel solenoid on the factory carb. Because the '78 only had the Carter YF single barrel it didn't have an electric choke, so I'm going to assume again that the red w/ white stripe is for the electric choke.

That's a lot of assuming, but it's the best I can do without an actual 1980 schematic.

 

[Niedhogg]

No, the gauges in the CJ's run on straight +12Vdc. Well, I looked at the wiring schematic in my FSM, and I don't know of a lot of wiring changes between '78 and '80, so assuming they're the same, the brown wire is probably for the AC compressor, and the green is for the anit-diesel solenoid on the factory carb. Because the '78 only had the Carter YF single barrel it didn't have an electric choke, so I'm going to assume again that the red w/ white stripe is for the electric choke.

That's a lot of assuming, but it's the best I can do without an actual 1980 schematic.

Ok then, straight 12V so that's good.. no a/c on this Jeep, and the red wire w/stripe is actually spliced in with the brown at one point.. so I just don't know.. let me ask you this, oil pump, it has the single wire on the top of the dome which seems normal, but on the side of the pump is a two wire plug, and those two wires are at the end of the wires we are talking about. it's like there is a power source, maybe from somewhere, goes through whatever those two terminal ends in my pic were attatched to (possibly on the old carb), runs down to the plug on the oil pump and back up to somewhere else. It seems or looks to be a series circuit...

 

[eatdrinkadam]

The electric choke should be hooked up to a 12v relay. The relay should provide a closed circuit when the engine is running. (powered by the alternator)

Ignition ON switch would not work since the choke could open up before you start the engine.