• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

Build Thread CJ7 restoration in progress- Advice please

Build Thread CJ7 restoration in progress- Advice please
I do not have a welder and to be honest I know zero about welding. I would like to take a class one of these days to learn though.

I drilled 1 bolt out, which pretty much took care of the bit. So I have to go get some more tomorrow.

The seat belt bolts are going to take the longest.

I tried using a torch to heat the bolts to see if that would loosen them, but that did not work either.

I'm just going to have to do it the old fashioned way.
 
So I pulled these plugs. They came out easily with a screwdriver. As you see in the pics, when you bend up the tab in the middle it releases the side tabs which hold it flush to the metal. I am going to replace those with rubber caps after I paint the floor.
 
So I found some drill bits in another toolbox and drilled the last 3 bolts holding the roll bar. Took about 30 minutes a piece. If I ever see these f'ing things ever again it will be too soon!
 
So after I pulled the bolts, I slid the roll bar forward to see what was underneath. Sadly, my project has taken a turn for the worse.

My girl has some rot. Here are the pics I just took. The last 2 pics or on the driver's side. You can see right thru to the floor and the ribbing underneath.

The rust was very thick and I think if I had actually rolled her over, the roll bar probably would have punch right thru the floor.
 
Last edited:
bullseye said:
So after I pulled the bolts, I slid the roll bar forward to see what was underneath. Sadly, my project has taken a turn for the worse.

My girl has some rot. Here are the pics I just took. The last 2 pics or on the driver's side. You can see right thru to the floor and the ribbing underneath.

The rust was very thick and I think if I had actually rolled her over, the roll bar probably would have punch right thru the floor.
Click to expand...

let me repeat the question, do you have a welding machine.:eek:
 
So now, I really don't know what to do? I don't know how to weld and the project now has gone beyond my abilities.

If anyone has any ideas or advice, please let me know. I can take more pics and post them if that helps.
 
bullseye said:
So now, I really don't know what to do? I don't know how to weld and the project now has gone beyond my abilities.

If anyone has any ideas or advice, please let me know. I can take more pics and post them if that helps.
Click to expand...

obviously it is time to increase your abilities.:cool:
don't panic, there is a solution, you just have not found it yet.
You didn't think this was going to be easy did you?:rolleyes:
You can learn to weld, find some one that can, find a new er tub, they are doing remarkable things with adhesives and I am not talking about JB weld. there are lots of things you can do. Do the research find the right fix for you. :wtf:
 
Now that you have had a chance to sleep on it and drink coffee and such I recommend you take a look at Petescj, CJ8 build page. some of his pictures look a lot like your pictures.:chug:
 
IOPort51 said:
Now that you have had a chance to sleep on it and drink coffee and such I recommend you take a look at Petescj, CJ8 build page. some of his pictures look a lot like your pictures.:chug:
Click to expand...

Will do. Now that I have slept on it, my choices are pretty simple.

1) Hire someone to come weld some new metal
2) Rent/buy a welder and do it myself
3) Go the adhesive route as you suggested

I've seen the adhesive used on Trucks! on Spike TV. They showed the adhesive was for all intents and purposes just as strong as a weld. Hi-tech stuff.

A new tub would involve new paint and stripe kit, plus all kinds of other costs and time and everything else = too much $$$.


Taking a couple days off to head down to the Mohegan Sun casino for the night to chuck some dice. Going to think it over and regroup...
 
who knows, you may win enough to buy a new H3 or range rover or better yet, maybe a new MIG welder!!:chug:
 
Bullseye don't feel bad, my floorboard underneath my roll bar mount was much worse, I put new metal in and it is good as new. I learned to weld this year with a little mig welder and it sure helped with the my project. Little mig welders are cheap, I got a used Clarke for $300 Canadian and it has paid for it's self from all the work I have done with it.
 
I can't speak for every one but for me the Jeep is the toy that gives me an excuse to play with the rest of my toys!! And to buy more of them!!:grinjeep:
 
Bullseye your rust is not that bad, it seems every bit of water that gets in the cab of a CJ goes right to the rollbar. The best fix like the other guys have been saying is to get some new metal welded on the floor and you will be good to go, for sure not a new tub, yours is still good. I removed my rollbar recently in my 85 to install a YJ family cage, I too had hell removing some bolts but finally got them out. If you are going to paint the floor with POR-15, make sure and put several coats under the rollbar feet with 24 hours dry time between each one. It would be best to then paint over the POR-15 with a good coat of something with UV inhibitors. The POR-15 will not resist the sun and anywhere it is exposed will eventually chalk and start to come off. I would paint the bottom of the rollbar feet with a couple of coats of POR-15 also.
I would not cut the dash piece either, the steering wheel comes off easy.
When you replace the rollbar with new bolts you will need to recaulk them underneath also. From the factory Jeep used some type of caulk underneath on all the seams, including caulking over the rollbar bolts underneath. If you dont recaulk them when your done to keep water off of them they will eventually rust again.
I would definately keep the original seats, they are alot better seats, but im with everyone else 750 to 1500 is ridiculous. Keep looking and you can get a great job much much cheaper.
 
I'm in the same boat right now, 'cept the water's spilling over the deck here.:eek:

I'm teaching myself to weld because of my rust problems too. looks like you would have a much smaller area to cut out of the B pillar attachment points. You've got the right solutions, just need to make the choice. If you pick up a welder, there's many other things you can make with it.

Good luck with it, that's a damn fine lookin' Renegade !:chug:
 
Do not fret . I myself just learned to mig and tig weld recently and it is real easy. Welders are pretty cheap if you buy a used one off of e-bay or craigslist. I would suggest buying a mig welder for your project.
I am currently restoring a "77", but have not pulled the rollbar off yet.:(
 
IOPort51 said:
I can't speak for every one but for me the Jeep is the toy that gives me an excuse to play with the rest of my toys!! And to buy more of them!!:grinjeep:
Click to expand...
X2 on that my brother!!! :punk:
 
Did just fine at the casino. Had a fun weekend and didn't worry about this project. It will work itself out.

Thank you all for the support. It is good to hear people who have been in the same situation say that it really isn't that bad. I know it isn't either, it's just always something new and u start wondering if you have gotten in over your head. Which I probably have. :D
 
CJ MAN said:
If you are going to paint the floor with POR-15, make sure and put several coats under the rollbar feet with 24 hours dry time between each one. It would be best to then paint over the POR-15 with a good coat of something with UV inhibitors. The POR-15 will not resist the sun and anywhere it is exposed will eventually chalk and start to come off. I would paint the bottom of the rollbar feet with a couple of coats of POR-15 also.
Click to expand...

I have a few questions about POR-15. I did not plan on putting the UV coat on because i AM putting a new carpet in and I don't plan on exposing the floor. Is this a bad idea?

How perfect does the surface need to be? I have the degreaser and etching product. But I am talking about original paint. I got 99% of it off the surface, but it's impossible to get every single spec that is still solidly on the metal. Of course any loose paint, but does it have to be near perfect?

When painting near/around threaded bolt holes, like the seat mounting brackets, should I put the bolt in the hole and paint then remove immediately so as not to get POR 15 in the threads?

Also, thank you for the suggestion to paint the roll bar pads and let each coat cure for 24 hours. I'll be sure to do that.
 
Next general question. Both Quad and 4WD have replacement body panels, like a righ front floor pan or wheel well. They seem very inexpensive to me.

Are they cheap because they use thin metal?

Good/bad?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$100.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  50.0%
Contribute
Back
Top Bottom