Build Thread CJ7 restoration in progress- Advice please

Build Thread CJ7 restoration in progress- Advice please
If you look in the above pics, you can clearly see the brackets that hold the bolts that tie in the strut rods. I ordered stainless brackets to replace them.

What I did not realize at the time was that these brackets are welded in place. The stainless brackets need to be bolted into place.

I do not want to cut out the old brackets then drill new holes to bolt the replacements into place, so I will be returning these ss brackets.

The interior boots are an exact match to the factory originals.

The stainless seat brackets appear to be a couple inches shorter than the originals. They also are a little lighter as well. Not sure how this will affect the seat height, but will go into more detail later down the road.
 
I'm back. Met with a guy with 25 yrs welding experience including work on Jeeps. Agreed to do the job for $125. Work begins in the morning. Will post pics tomorrow. But I have a few questions?

The first pic is looking down at the floor where the roll bar sits. You can see 2 of the bolt holes and the 3rd still has a bolt that I need to drill out. To the left of that bolt you can see a rust hole.

The second pic is looking forward under the tire well. You are looking outside in at the rust hole from the first pic.

That is just a gaping hole. I think that must have been stuffed with filler? I know there was a sponge of some type in that frame.

Should that be welded shut or should I just use a filler like the factory?
 
Here is the review of the Nifty Pro-Line Deluxe Massback Molded Carpet Kit:

"The Pro-line deluxe massback molded carpet kit is made from premium OEM quality cut pile nylon carpet with a special heavy-duty rubber like backing. It’s pressure formed, in an OEM QS-9000 manufacturing process, to the exact shape of the floor for a perfect fit. Electronically welded heel pad adds durability. Exposed edges are trimmed in a color coordinated edge binding. Shifter locations are clearly marked on the back to simplify installation. Kit includes a one-piece molded front and rear passenger floor area, a cargo area piece, molded wheel wells with trim pieces for around the wheel wells."

Here's the "premium OEM quality cut pile nylon carpet" with the "special heavy-duty rubber like backing". Pay special attention to the quality cut and that heavy duty backing.
 
bullseye said:
I'm back. Met with a guy with 25 yrs welding experience including work on Jeeps. Agreed to do the job for $125. Work begins in the morning. Will post pics tomorrow. But I have a few questions?

The first pic is looking down at the floor where the roll bar sits. You can see 2 of the bolt holes and the 3rd still has a bolt that I need to drill out. To the left of that bolt you can see a rust hole.

The second pic is looking forward under the tire well. You are looking outside in at the rust hole from the first pic.

That is just a gaping hole. I think that must have been stuffed with filler? I know there was a sponge of some type in that frame.

Should that be welded shut or should I just use a filler like the factory?
Click to expand...
I looked at your pics several times - I just can't figure out what you mean... :)
 
Here's my favorite. Notice the "durability" of the carpet as I hold it up to the sun. You can see through the carpet!

That super thick .25" of jute backing is already falling off the back.

All in all, this carpet kit SUCKS.

Don't buy it.
 
bullseye said:
I'm back. Met with a guy with 25 yrs welding experience including work on Jeeps. Agreed to do the job for $125. Work begins in the morning. Will post pics tomorrow. But I have a few questions?

The first pic is looking down at the floor where the roll bar sits. You can see 2 of the bolt holes and the 3rd still has a bolt that I need to drill out. To the left of that bolt you can see a rust hole.

The second pic is looking forward under the tire well. You are looking outside in at the rust hole from the first pic.

That is just a gaping hole. I think that must have been stuffed with filler? I know there was a sponge of some type in that frame.


Should that be welded shut or should I just use a filler like the factory?
Click to expand...

I would be asking my welder these questions.
I doubt that what I would do will be similar to what he is going to do.
I would have that bolt out before he arrives in the morning.:cool:
 
Bullseye, if your gonna have a welder come fix this I would have him go ahead and replace that small section of floor and then you can either plate underneath and sandwich the body metal between the rollbar and another plate underneath, or if you have time and the means, go ahead and have him try to tie it into the frame. At this point it wouldnt be much harder. I would definately have all of that metal cut out around that, it looks like it got pretty thin
 
So he got here at 9am and left at 230. We got a good chunk done, but Jeeps always take longer than you think. He refused to take the 125 we agreed on and said he would come back tomorrow morning to finish up. He also left his Miller welding machine and tools. :D

So here are the pics I took as he worked. This is the area located under the roll bar on the right rear passenger side.

The patch is not completed. He still has some filling in to do and some grinding to clean up the welds.
 
bullseye - please check those welds carefully - it's had to tell from the pics but they sure look to me to be good to the new metal but laying up (on top) on the parent one... :)
 
These are the under the roll bar in the right rear of the vehicle above the wheel well.

So I thought he would cut out the rusted spots and then cut out a patch from 18g metal and weld it in like a jig saw puzzle. Instead, he just grinded the rust off and laid the patch above hole. He welded into clean metal. He also used 16g for the patches.

I thought it would be flush, but I guess not? He said that was fine and he did not have a machine to put the bead in the metal.

This patch is not complete either. He said he still needs to clean it up and do some grinding.
 
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A bit of those welds look better - but still look to me like they are not penetrating the parent surface very much... It's very hard to tell from pictures though (without seeing the other side)...

In all honesty - pic 4 on the lower side looks like :dung: - he needs to fix that! :)

Welding sheet metal is a bitch - it really take a good hand... :)
 
This side is going to take a little more work than he thought. I ended up drilling out the bolt that held in the seat belt. Once that came out, we could see that there was a lot of rot in that area as well.
 
CJ said:
bullseye - please check those welds carefully - it's had to tell from the pics but they sure look to me to be good to the new metal but laying up (on top) on the parent one... :)
Click to expand...

CJ said:
A bit of those welds look better - but still look to me like they are not penetrating the parent surface very much... It's very hard to tell from pictures though (without seeing the other side)...

In all honesty - pic 4 on the lower side looks like :dung: - he needs to fix that! :)

Welding sheet metal is a bitch - it really take a good hand... :)
Click to expand...

So what am I looking for? I can take more pics. What do you want to see?
 
Do you notice how the beads are 'hooked' to the new metal but kinda laying on top of the old?

If you look at the opposite sides of the parent metal, do you see penetration (pics please)?

As I said though, welding sheet metal is a bitch and can be very difficult - the welds may be better then what you pics show... :)

Tigging thin wetal is the best - but not easily available.. :)
 
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