clunking and banging

[jhall]

today i installed a 4in lift and a 1 1\2 shackle lift 36in tires took for test drive and bam bam bam noise like driveshaft broke but it didnt took rear shaft out and drve with just front and same thing it does not do it if i baby itbut it will do itevery time i push in clutch in rev or first or if i go over 20 mpg also wont grab after stop and go but drive shaft is spining??? i have to put back in netrual and then 1st and slowly let out clutch. lift related?? ran great before lift

 

[CJ]

My 1st thought is to check to make sure the drive shaft is not binding (the shaft angle is not too great), Also, make sure the drive shaft is not over extended.

 

[DHugg]

My 1st thought is to check to make sure the drive shaft is not binding (the shaft angle is not too great),

CJ means look to see if the u-joint is hitting the pinion yoke. I had a case of that from some really rusted-out needle bearings inside the u-joint, and the vibration was slinging the u-joint around enough to bump the yoke valley, the bottom of the yoke where it cradles the u-joint.

Sorry, CJ.... military upbringing. Use 6th grade English (8th grade for Air Force), then tell 'em what you're gonna tell 'em, tell 'em, then tell 'em what you told 'em.

 

[CJ]

No reason to be sorry. I only type short replies from my phone.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

A 4-1/2” lift is a lot for a CJ5 as it puts a lot of angle on an already short driveline. Did you lower the Transfer Case ? How about wedges at the rear spring hangers to straighten out the drive shaft to pinion yoke to one another? I’m with CJ, it sounds like driveline binding to me.

 

[jhall]

yes i dropped t case two in and now you menton wedges iv installed lifts on other jeeps (wranglers)and the new springs had wedges in back but mine had no wedges so my pinon is straight.should i have weddges? front and back. if so can i buy just wedges and woul that give enough angle as its a total of 5 1/2 in lift with hangers

 

[jhall]

CJ means look to see if the u-joint is hitting the pinion yoke. I had a case of that from some really rusted-out needle bearings inside the u-joint, and the vibration was slinging the u-joint around enough to bump the yoke valley, the bottom of the yoke where it cradles the u-joint.

Sorry, CJ.... military upbringing. Use 6th grade English (8th grade for Air Force), then tell 'em what you're gonna tell 'em, tell 'em, then tell 'em what you told 'em.

would this cause the drive shaft to spin and jeep not move after stops?

 

[BajaEdition]

5 and a half inches
you have drive train geometry issues.
you are going to bring that puppy to someone to straiten out the issues or learn to weld because you are about to learn how to clock an axle which means cutting off the spring pads and welding new ones at the correct angle and I would get a new shaft afterward front and back so I had ones that were of the correct length.

 

[jhall]

i can cut perches and weld on new but didnt want to have to. could i make up angle with cv style u joints and wedges this would also lenthin driveshaft??? also im going to get a angle finder what should i be at or close to?? and were do you place the finder on drive shaft??

 

[IOPort51]

Have you looked at the R&P lately??

would this cause the drive shaft to spin and jeep not move after stops?

 

[jhall]

I assume your talking about ring and pinion and no but it does the same thing with just rear driveshaft or front couldn't imagine them both going out at same time right after lift

Have you looked at the R&P lately??

 

[IOPort51]

just because the drive shaft is not hooked up does not say the differential isn't turning.

I assume your talking about ring and pinion and no but it does the same thing with just rear driveshaft or front couldn't imagine them both going out at same time right after lift

 

[Old Dog]

would this cause the drive shaft to spin and jeep not move after stops?

So it does this with either the front or rear driveshaft connected.
If the driveshaft is turning the only thing inbetween it and the tires is the R&P. How they would both blow from a lift is beyond me though.

With 5 1/2" of lift You will need cv shafts for sure. Heres a good link for figuring out your angles..Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

 

[jhall]

So it does this with either the front or rear driveshaft connected.
If the driveshaft is turning the only thing inbetween it and the tires is the R&P. How they would both blow from a lift is beyond me though.

With 5 1/2" of lift You will need cv shafts for sure. Heres a good link for figuring out your angles..Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

well now that you metioned it after i pulled the rear off and drove with just front was when it wouldnt move with shaft spinning so i prob do have a bad front r&p along with the shaft angle problem

 

[rockgopher]

check splines in your slip joint on drive shaft

 

[IOPort51]

I'm sorry but I gotta ask.
were the hubs locked in??

well now that you metioned it after i pulled the rear off and drove with just front was when it wouldnt move with shaft spinning so poopie i prob do have a bad front r&p along with the shaft angle problem

 

[jasonmark1993]

The operating angle should be less than 15 degrees.

Place the angle finder on the ds tube. Lets say you have 25 degrees down.

Then check the pinion angle. Any flat spot on the yoke or you can go off a flat spot on the pan. Lets say you get 5 degrees. That means you have 20 degrees difference that the u joint is trying to compensate for.

You want to shoot for having the tcase pointing down the same amount the diff is pointing up.

I think 4inches is about the max you can run without making mods.

You might be able to pull the rear shackles and have a prerunner look going. You'll still have to rotate the rear diff though.

 

[jhall]

I'm sorry but I gotta ask.
were the hubs locked in??

yes the hubs were locked in. idid have to use pliers on driver side to turn it

 

[Old Dog]

yes the hubs were locked in. idid have to use pliers on driver side to turn it

I would check that the hubs were working.
I'd also pull the front diff cover and see whats in there.

 

[IOPort51]

Hubs are kind of spring loaded, just because you turn the knob does not guarantee that it is locked, too much grease or not enough lubrication can prevent them from locking. Try jacking the front off the ground and spinning the wheel, if the axle u joint doesn't move if you hold it and spin the wheel, you need to spend some time with the hubs.

yes the hubs were locked in. idid have to use pliers on driver side to turn it