Clutch Linkage (Bellcrank clearance question)

[verreaul]

I just installed a new clutch linkage kit and I was wondering what the "safe" distance between the bellcrank and the frame should be? I currently have about 1/4" distance and I'm thinking if there is any movement the bellcrank may hit the frame. I bought the kit because the pivot bracket broke (after 20 years). I don't know what the clearance was before it broke. Also I adjusted the clutch to have about 1 1/2" play and the clutch now starts to engage after the pedal is at about the 1/2 way point, before it used to engage closer to the floor. Not sure what the correct point should be. Thanks

 

[Hedgehog]

Is your bell crank touching the frame ..... If not you are good. A clutch that engages near the floor is a clutch linkage that needs to be adjusted. You want a clutch that fully disengages at the bottom without clutch plate drag and allows for complete clutch engagement at the top. All allowing for heat expansion when everything is hot.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Have you checked the condition of your engine and tranny mounts?
It should not be that close.
Can you post a picture?
This is pretty much what you want here.
https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_CJ_CLUTCH_ADJUSTMENT_008_1.jpg

LG

 

[verreaul]

Have you checked the condition of your engine and tranny mounts?
It should not be that close.
Can you post a picture?
This is pretty much what you want here.
https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_CJ_CLUTCH_ADJUSTMENT_008_1.jpg

LG

Here is a picture. The Jeep is lifted and there is an extension for the pivot. I just don't seem to recall it being that close before I changed the parts. (I could be wrong). Thanks

 

[verreaul]

Have you checked the condition of your engine and tranny mounts?
It should not be that close.
Can you post a picture?
This is pretty much what you want here.
https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_CJ_CLUTCH_ADJUSTMENT_008_1.jpg

LG

The engine and Transmission mounts are ok.

 

[verreaul]

Is your bell crank touching the frame ..... If not you are good. A clutch that engages near the floor is a clutch linkage that needs to be adjusted. You want a clutch that fully disengages at the bottom without clutch plate drag and allows for complete clutch engagement at the top. All allowing for heat expansion when everything is hot.

Crank not touching frame, you can see the picture I previously posted. Clutch seems to be OK. It just may not have been adjusted properly before. You just don't seem to notice little details until things change.

 

[Torxhead]

The engine and Transmission mounts are ok.

A good gauge of a bad motor mount is when the clutch bellcrank is not perpendicular to the frame. This can put excessive load on the pivot point and break it. Other indicators would be the rear of the valve cover getting close to the firewall and the gear shifter getting close to hitting the shifter cover. With the bellcrank that close to the frame, I would suggest replacing them along with the tranny mount. Then at least you will have a history of replacement. Those poly mounts would be a good choice.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

That bell-crank is WAY to close.
You can't leave a driveway without it hit'n the frame.
Please post pictures of the tranny mount.
How did you check the mounts out?
Also-how close is the bottom of the fan blade to the radiator(6 o'clock position) compared to the top(12 o'clock position? This can be an indicator of engine position/alignment issues.
LG

 

[verreaul]

That bell-crank is WAY to close.
You can't leave a driveway without it hit'n the frame.
Please post pictures of the tranny mount.
How did you check the mounts out?
Also-how close is the bottom of the fan blade to the radiator(6 o'clock position) compared to the top(12 o'clock position? This can be an indicator of engine position/alignment issues.
LG

Fanblade edge is 1 3/4" from radiator top and bottom.
Transmission has poly mount in good condition.
Engine mounts look conventional. Tested with crowbar and seems tight.
I can try to shorten the extension for the pivot and reinstall. What should a safe distance from the frame be?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I would say at least 1 inch of clearence.
I have almost 2", with a 1" body lift and poly body bushings.
Were's all that oil coming from, in the pictures?
LG

 

[verreaul]

I would say at least 1 inch of clearence.
I have almost 2", with a 1" body lift and poly body bushings.
Were's all that oil coming from, in the pictures?
LG

I'll take it apart and shorten the pivot extension but I don't think I'll be able to gain more than 1/2" while trying to keep everything relatively horizontal.
The oil is mostly coming from the pinion seals. Planning on replacing all the pinion seals in September (differentials+Transfer Case ). Does the clutch starting to engage at the 1/2 point sound about right (as opposed to closer to floor)?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The oil is not coming from the pinion seals, as those are on the axles.
Those are the output shaft seals. Hint-Try a bottle of Lucas Power Steering Sealer in the tranny and t'case.
Make sure the vents for the tranny and t'case are not clogged.
What oil are you using now in tranny and t'case?
A small bit of angle, won't hurt anything on the bellcrank.
LG

 

[Hedgehog]

Crank not touching frame, you can see the picture I previously posted. Clutch seems to be OK. It just may not have been adjusted properly before. You just don't seem to notice little details until things change.

Sorry guy, a picture is worth a thousand words. That is not the clearance I thought you were talking about. As other have said, it is to close. If the engine or frame flexes it will be hard into the frame, not good. Easy and difficult repairs are possible.

 

[verreaul]

The oil is not coming from the pinion seals, as those are on the axles.
Those are the output shaft seals. Hint-Try a bottle of Lucas Power Steering Sealer in the tranny and t'case.
Make sure the vents for the tranny and t'case are not clogged.
What oil are you using now in tranny and t'case?
A small bit of angle, won't hurt anything on the bellcrank.
LG

Sorry I meant leaking from pinion + output shaft seals...will change in fall.
I will check the vents to make sure they are not clogged and modify the bellcrank to increase the space between the frame tomorrow.
Haven't changed the fluids yet so not sure what the PO used in the T-5 and Dana 300 .
Since they are interconnected should I be using Dexron II in both? Even though the Dana 300 states to use 85W-90.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do NOT use ATF!
You can use 85w90 syn in both. They are NOT interconnected.
With how wet that area looks-I would check the levels NOW!....

LG